38º Congresso Brasileiro de Cosmetologia

ORAL ABSTRACTS

VALORIZATION OF RESIDUAL SACCHAROMYCES CEREVISIAE BIOMASS IN LIQUID CRYSTAL EMULSIONS: STRUCTURAL AND RHEOLOGICAL CHARACTERIZATION AND IN VIVO COSMETIC EFFICACY

Authors

Nóbrega, Martha Maria G1, Cavalcante, Josilene de Assis1, Cornélio, Melânia L1*

Affiliations

1 Departamento de Engenharia Química-CT-UFPB Campus I, João Pessoa, Brasil.

Abstract

Liquid crystal emulsions are cosmetic systems organized in lamellar arrangements, capable of promoting water retention, controlled release of active ingredients, and formulation stability. This microstructural organization enhances interaction with the skin barrier and directly reflects on the functional performance of the product. In parallel, the reduction of environmental impact has driven the use of ingredients derived from the valorization of agro-industrial by-products. In this context, residual Saccharomyces cerevisiae biomass, originating from fermentative processes, presents a composition rich in β-glucans, proteins, and polysaccharides, which are associated with skin hydration and maintenance of the skin barrier function. Foam-mat drying enables the production of a stable powder suitable for incorporation into liquid crystal emulsions, while preserving the microstructural integrity of the system. OBJECTIVES: To develop liquid crystal emulsions containing Saccharomyces cerevisiae powder obtained by foam-mat drying and to investigate the influence of the active ingredient on microstructural organization, physicochemical stability, rheological behavior, and in vivo cosmetic efficacy. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Saccharomyces cerevisiae powder was obtained by foam-mat drying from residual fermentative biomass. Liquid crystal emulsions were prepared by hot emulsification, resulting in a control emulsion (without active ingredient) and two formulations containing 0.5% and 1.5% of the active ingredient. Microstructure was evaluated by optical microscopy, while physicochemical stability and rheological behavior were determined by instrumental analyses. Cosmetic efficacy was assessed through an in vivo study, comparing the formulations with a commercial facial cream by instrumental determination of skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), elasticity, skin gloss, and skin pH at 0, 1, 2, 3, and 4 hours after application. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: Foam-mat drying enabled the production of a stable S. cerevisiae powder compatible with structured systems. Optical microscopy confirmed the maintenance of lamellar structures after incorporation of the active ingredient. Rheological analyses indicated pseudoplastic behavior, with a reduction in viscosity under shear, favoring spreadability during application without compromising stability at rest. Formulations containing the active ingredient promoted a significant increase (p < 0.05) in skin hydration and a reduction in TEWL compared with the control emulsion and the commercial product, with a more pronounced effect observed for the formulation containing 1.5% of the active ingredient. An improvement in skin elasticity was also observed, while skin pH and gloss remained compatible with normal skin physiology. CONCLUSIONS: Liquid crystal emulsions containing Saccharomyces cerevisiae powder exhibited adequate microstructural organization, stability, and superior cosmetic performance, especially at the 1.5% concentration. The association of biotechnological biomass with liquid crystal systems proved to be a technically viable strategy for the development of high-performance sustainable cosmetics

DEVELOPMENT AND PHOTOPROTECTIVE EVALUATION OF A SUNSCREEN BAR CONTAINING A NATURAL PIGMENT OBTAINED FROM WOOD RESIDUES OF Handroanthus serratifolius (YELLOW IPE)

Authors

Elycia Manoelle dos Santos Pinheiro¹, Deliane dos Santos Soares¹, Luanne Pereira dos Santos¹, Daiane Gabriele Souza Ribeiro¹, Luana Santos Figueira ¹, Erivelton Gama Rego ¹, Gabriela Bianchi Dos Santos¹ Kariane Mendes Nunes¹.

Affiliations

¹ Universidade Federal do Oeste do Pará, Santarém, Pará

Abstract

The increasing demand for natural cosmetics has driven the replacement of synthetic ingredients with plant-derived actives, with the aim of developing safer, functional, and environmentally sustainable products. In this context, natural pigments are notable for their biocompatibility, low toxicity, and antioxidant and photoprotective properties. The Amazon region hosts forest species of high biotechnological value, such as Handroanthus serratifolius (yellow ipê), whose timber exploitation generates large volumes of wood residues that currently lack established reuse pathways. These residues may contain secondary metabolites, including flavonoids and phenolic compounds, that absorb ultraviolet radiation, contribute to skin protection, and impart color to cosmetic formulations. OBJECTIVES: To obtain and characterize a natural pigment from wood residues of H. serratifolius (yellow ipê), incorporate it into a sunscreen bar formulation, and evaluate its colorimetric and photoprotective potential. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Wood residues of H. serratifolius were collected from sawmills in the municipality of Santarém, Pará, Brazil, dried, ground, and subjected to percolation extraction using 96% ethanol. The resulting extract was concentrated and dried, yielding a natural pigment. Physicochemical characterization included solubility tests, pH determination, and solid content analysis. Flavonoid and total phenolic contents were quantified using spectrophotometric methods. Photoprotective activity was assessed by UV–Vis spectrophotometry in the 290–320 nm range, with the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) calculated according to the method proposed by Mansur et al. For cosmetic applicability, the pigment was previously levigated in propanediol to enhance particle wetting and facilitate its incorporation into the sunscreen bar base. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The extraction process yielded 2.5% pigment with a high solid content, which is consistent with natural pigments obtained from lignocellulosic residues. The pigment exhibited a pH of 6.5, suitable for topical applications, indicating good physicochemical stability. Significant levels of total flavonoids (125.1 ± 7.2 μg RE/g) and phenolic compounds (46.4 ± 0.50 μg GAE/g) were observed, suggesting antioxidant potential. Spectrophotometric analysis revealed high absorption in the UVB region, resulting in an SPF of 9.64 for the isolated pigment. When incorporated into the sunscreen bar formulation, the SPF increased from 8.6 to 26, attributable to enhanced UVB absorption. The final formulation exhibited a homogeneous appearance, uniform coloration ranging from medium to dark brown, and good spreadability, indicating adequate compatibility between the pigment and the photoprotective base. CONCLUSIONS: The pigment obtained from wood residues of Handroanthus serratifolius demonstrated colorimetric, antioxidant, and photoprotective potential, with the ability to enhance the SPF of photoprotective cosmetic formulations. Its incorporation into a sunscreen bar proved to be feasible, stable, and compatible with the formulation base, indicating that this pigment represents a sustainable alternative to synthetic pigments. Additionally, its use contributes to the reuse and valorization of Amazonian wood residues, thereby reducing environmental impacts and creating potential for socioeconomic benefits in the region.

ARE SCALES RELIABLE MEASURES? A NEUROSCIENTIFIC ANALYSIS BEYOND SELF-REPORTED RESPONSES

Authors

Airton Rodrigues¹, Aline Miho Takeuchi¹

Affiliations

¹ Núcleo de Estudos em Neurociência do Consumidor, São Paulo, Brasil

Abstract

Neuroscience is a new frontier in sensory studies and is still underutilized. Through this approach, it is possible to identify significant gaps between what is declared and the emotional response to a product [1]. In sensory testing, understanding this gap is essential, as traditional methods rely on explicit feedback, primarily engaging the slow and deliberative System 2 [2]. Many product failures may stem from this issue, since even products that perform well declaratively may show poor market performance [3]. Thus, neuroscientific methods allow a more comprehensive view of emotional responses by accessing the fast and instinctive System 1 [2]. The integration of physiological measures has improved the understanding and prediction of behavior and, consequently, product performance in the market [3,4,5]. OBJECTIVES: Assuming that the difference between Systems 1 and 2 can be measured through neuroscientific versus traditional methods, this study aims to identify differences in valence and magnitude between the responses of each system. Five fragrances, selected arbitrarily and by convenience, were used to establish the relationship between declared and physiological responses through electroencephalography (EEG). MATERIALS AND METHODS: The EventIDE software was used to control the experiment. After random selection of the fragrance code (Q8R, X9Y, C3D, A7B, and M4N), the product was presented for olfaction for 10 seconds in a bottle and then rated on a 10-point scale. The stimuli themselves are not relevant, as the focus is on the relationship between declared evaluation and the results obtained through the frontal asymmetry technique in EEG, which corresponds to the difference in alpha activation between electrodes F3 and F4. Positive values indicate approach and negative values indicate rejection. Twenty-seven women aged 22 to 47 participated, recruited from the research database. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: In terms of declared preference, two fragrances had mean scores above 7 (7.63 and 7.48 for C3D and M4N, respectively), one received an intermediate evaluation of 6.67 (Q8R), and two scored below 5 (3.22 and 4.26 for X9Y and A7B). EEG results indicated negative asymmetries for all perfumes, characterized by greater alpha activity in the right hemisphere (as alpha is an inhibitory frequency, this implies greater activation in the left hemisphere). These findings show that even fragrances with acceptable ratings (above 7) exhibited some level of rejection. Fragrances X9Y, C3D, A7B, and Q8R showed similar meanings, indicating comparable neural responses, whereas M4N showed the highest mean, suggesting lower repulsion. Therefore, assuming a score of 7 as a market acceptance cutoff, products with traces of repulsion would still be considered marketable. CONCLUSIONS: The results clearly demonstrate the risk of relying on rating scales. When products are tested, performance tends to be comparative across options, which can always generate a certain preference. However, this does not necessarily indicate a reward process or activation of a pleasure center. Sensory tests must begin to consider the need for products to activate the appropriate side of the brain, where the reward center is located, rather than relying exclusively on scale ratings that may conceal true rejection.

GENETIC VARIANTS IN AHR, MMP1, AND COL1A1 ASSOCIATED WITH ANCESTRY FOR COSMETIC PERSONALIZATION STRATEGIES

Authors

Alexandra Gambeta Lona1, Pedro Gamberini Martins2, Giovana Fernanda Santos Fidelis2, Julia Tiemi Siguemoto2, Laura Previato de Grande1, Yasmim Gabriele Matos2, Nadine de Godoy Torso2, Ighor Seiji Okumura Tioda2, Bruna Évelyn Briotto Lima2, José Augusto Sakae Defende2, Mariana Vieira Morau1, Sophie Françoise Mauricette Derchain2, Maurício Wesley Perroud Jr.2, Clarissa Lourenço de Castro3, Luiz Carlos da Costa Júnior4,5, Paulo Caleb Júnior Lima Santos6, Pedro Eduardo Nascimento Silva Vasconcelos7, Magnun Nueldo Nunes dos Santos², Gabriela da Silva Arcanjo8, Marcos André Cavalcanti Bezerra9, Eder de Carvalho Pincinato2, Gislaine Ricci Leonardi1, Patricia Moriel1*

Affiliations

1 Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas, Unicamp (FCF-UNICAMP), Campinas, Brasil.

2 Faculdade de Ciências Médicas, Unicamp (FCM-UNICAMP), Campinas, Brasil;

3 Instituto Nacional do Câncer (INCA), Rio de Janeiro, Brasil;

4 Centro de Transplante de Medula Óssea, INCA, Rio de Janeiro, Brasil;

5 Faculdade de Medicina, Universidade de São Paulo (USP), São Paulo, Brasil;

6 Departamento de Farmacologia, Universidade Federal de São Paulo (UNIFESP), São Paulo, Brasil;

7 Laboratório Nacional de Biociências - LNBio, Centro Nacional de Pesquisa em Energia e Materiais – CNPEM, Campinas, Brasil;

8 Centro de Hematologia e Hemoterapia - Hemocentro - Divisão de Hematologia, Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Campinas, Brasil;

9 Centro de Biociências - Universidade Federal de Pernambuco, Recife, Brasil;

Abstract

Genetic variants in genes related to skin protection, elasticity, and structure, such as AHR, MMP1, and COL1A1, respectively, may modulate cutaneous responses to intrinsic and environmental factors, including exposure to cosmetic products [1–3]. In highly admixed populations like Brazil’s, regional and ancestry-related differences can generate distinct skin response profiles. These findings highlight the potential of integrating genetic variability to personalize and optimize dermocosmetic products [1–4]. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the allelic frequencies of variants rs2066853 (AHR), rs1799750 (MMP1), and rs1800012 (COL1A1) across different regions of Brazil, considering their relevance to skin biology and cosmetic science, and their association with genetic ancestry. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Participants were recruited from HC and CAISM/UNICAMP (Campinas, São Paulo, SP), InCor (SP), INCA (Rio de Janeiro, RJ), and HEMOPE (Pernambuco, PE). Genomic DNA was extracted using a commercial kit, and genotyping was performed with the Infinium Global Diversity Array with Enhanced PGx (Illumina®), analyzed using DRAGEN™. Genetic ancestry was estimated using the EthSEQ library in R (Gencode.Exome model, hg38 genome), with reference populations from the 1000 Genomes Project. The study was approved by the Research Ethics Committee. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: A total of 874 genotyped individuals were included, predominantly female (69.6%), with a mean age of 59.8 ± 16.3 years, mainly from Campinas-SP (36.9%), Rio de Janeiro-RJ (31.7%), São Paulo-SP (16.5%), and Pernambuco (14.9%). Significant differences were observed in the allelic frequency distributions of rs2066853 (AHR) and rs1799750 (MMP1) across regions and, more markedly, across genetic ancestry profiles. The rs2066853 (AHR) polymorphism showed significant associations both among regional groups (Campinas, Rio de Janeiro, Pernambuco, and São Paulo; p = 0.030) and among ancestries, with distinct patterns in individuals of African, European, and admixed ancestry, suggesting differential modulation of cutaneous responses to pollutants and UV radiation [2,3]. From a cosmetic perspective, variants associated with greater AHR activation indicate potential benefits of skin care strategies based on antioxidant and anti-pollution actives. Conversely, genetic profiles with lower AHR responsiveness may require formulations focused on reinforcing barrier function and maintaining skin homeostasis [1–4]. The rs1799750 (MMP1) polymorphism exhibited heterogeneous distribution, with significant regional differences (Campinas and Rio de Janeiro versus Pernambuco and São Paulo; p < 0.001) and ancestry-dependent associations, particularly among American, East Asian, and European ancestries. These variations suggest impacts on tissue remodeling and extracellular matrix processes, with cosmetic applications aimed at maintaining firmness and stimulating collagen [1–3]. In contrast, the rs1800012 (COL1A1) variant showed no significant regional differences (p = 0.41), although it was predominantly associated with European ancestry, suggesting an influence linked to the ancestral genetic basis of the dermis [2,3]. CONCLUSIONS: The findings demonstrate that AHR and MMP1 variants display differential distributions across regions and, especially, across genetic ancestry profiles in the Brazilian population, influencing skin responses related to the exposome, inflammation, and extracellular matrix remodeling. In contrast, the COL1A1 polymorphism does not show marked regional variation but reflects the structural connective tissue background associated with ancestry. Collectively, these results underscore the importance of considering genetic and ancestral diversity in the development of personalized cosmetic strategies supported by multigene panels representative of the population.

UPCYCLING INDUSTRIAL RUBBER WASTE INTO A HEVEA BRASILIENSIS BIOPEPTIDE (~40 KDA) FOR SKIN AND HAIR APPLICATIONS

Authors

Rodolfo Scarpino Barboza Franco123*; Kelly Cristina Martins Barroso2; Isabela Lustri de Oliveira2; Helena

Bueno2; Leticia Kakuda13

Affiliations

1Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto, USP, SP, Brasil

2Biocure Pharma Biotechnology S.A., Ribeirão Preto, SP, Brasil

3Obykaa - Development, research and innovation in cosmetics, Ribeirão Preto, SP, Brasil

Abstract

Bioactives from Brazilian biodiversity obtained through sustainable routes are strategic for innovation in hair and skin care. A ~40 kDa biopeptide obtained from Hevea brasiliensis via upcycling (reuse of industrial rubber waste) was evaluated as a topical active ingredient (1–3%) to reduce hair shedding, strengthen hair fibers, and improve parameters related to skin homeostasis and barrier function. (SISgen A8FAD23). AIM: To elucidate the mechanism of action and evaluate the clinical efficacy of the ~40 kDa biopeptide in hair and skin formulations. MATERIALS AND METHODS: (i) Characterization: 12% SDS-PAGE (DTT; 100 °C/10 min; Coomassie, Bio-Rad) to confirm apparent molecular mass. (ii) Mechanism: dermal papilla cells treated with biopeptide 0.5 mg/mL vs minoxidil 0.5 mg/mL and control; RT-qPCR (triplicates; statistical analysis) for 5α-reductase, β-catenin, IGF, FGF-7, and ERK. (iii) Safety: basal cytotoxicity and phototoxicity assays in BALB/c 3T3 were performed according to OECD TG 432 (3T3 NRU). (iv) Hair: intra-subject, real-use study with a 3% tonic applied to two symmetrical scalp areas (test vs control); men aged 18–60 years with mild telogenization; 35 recruited, 30 completed (mean age 38.17 years); once-daily application for 90 days; TrichoScan® (T0/T90) and clinical/self-assessments (T45/T90), including hair pull test and fiber caliber. (v) Skin: single-blind, real-use study with a 1% gel; 65 women ≥45 years recruited, 57 completed; twice-daily application for 28 days; clinical/self-assessments (T0/T7/T14/T28); Mexameter in a melasma subgroup (n=20). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: SDS-PAGE confirmed an apparent molecular mass of ~40 kDa. In dermal papilla cells, the ~40 kDa biopeptide reduced 5α-reductase by 33.2% (±12.2; p<0.05) and increased β-catenin by 77.8% (±8.1; p<0.05), IGF by 75.5% (±12.5; p<0.05), FGF-7 by 27.1% (±6.9; p<0.05), and ERK by 33.6% (±4.6; p<0.05) versus control, supporting androgen modulation and pro-anagen/follicular activity. The expression profile (β-catenin/IGF/FGF-7/ERK) suggests coordinated activation of signaling pathways and growth factors, consistent with support of follicular activity and dermis–epidermis crosstalk, also relevant to cutaneous homeostasis. In the hair study (n=30), no adverse events were observed. In the treated area, TrichoScan® showed an increase in hair count (140.68→161.60; +14.87%; p<0.05) and density (216.09→247.23; +14.41%; p<0.05), with increased anagen hairs (33.66→42.34; +25.82%; p<0.05) and reduced telogen hairs (66.34→57.21; −13.77%; p<0.05); the control area showed no significant improvement. The hair pull test became negative in 100% at T90 (vs 73% at T0; p<0.05), and clinical assessment indicated improved fiber caliber (p<0.05), with superior perceived reduction in shedding (test vs control; p<0.05). In the skin study (n=57), at T28, 93.0% reported increased softness, 96.5% increased hydration, and 80.7% improvement in periocular wrinkles; overall assessment was positive in 98.2%. Clinically, significant improvements were observed in softness and tone evenness, and reductions in periorbital and nasolabial wrinkles (T28 vs T0), whereas Mexameter showed no significant difference in the melasma subgroup. This suggests that tone-evenness improvements should be further assessed using complementary methods. CONCLUSIONS: The ~40 kDa biopeptide derived from Brazilian biodiversity (Hevea brasiliensis) via upcycling of industrial rubber waste modulated key hair-cycle markers and significantly improved instrumental and perceived hair parameters, in addition to anti-aging benefits with clinical improvements in texture and wrinkles. Additional controlled and standardized studies may strengthen the scientific, technical, and regulatory robustness of the proposed skin and hair benefits, with strong potential for national innovation.

MULTIDIMENSIONAL EFFICACY OF A FACIAL SERUM: FROM PROLONGED HYDRATION TO MELANOGENESIS INHIBITION COMPARABLE TO THE GOLD STANDARD IN HYPERPIGMENTATION TREATMENT

Authors

Fabiana Paes¹, Gabriela Maria D’Angelo Costa¹, Pedro Paulo Soldati¹, Priscila Carollo Moncayo¹, Silas Arandas Monteiro e Silva¹

Affiliations

¹Natura Cosméticos, São Paulo, Brasil.

Abstract

Skin aging is a biological process characterized by progressive physiological changes that impact skin function and appearance. Extrinsic factors, such as exposure to solar radiation, pollution, and stress, accelerate this process, resulting in visible clinical manifestations such as melasma and solar lentigines. The treatment of hyperpigmentation is driven by the search for cosmetics that offer efficacy comparable to established pharmacological treatments. OBJECTIVE To evaluate the preclinical and clinical efficacy of a facial serum in the treatment of hyperchromia through a multidimensional approach. MATERIALS AND METHODS The biological mechanism was investigated in an ex vivo model using human skin fragments from elective plastic surgeries, maintained in culture. Melanin synthesis was induced by UV radiation(20 J/cm2), and total pigmentation was quantified using the Fontana-Masson technique in both pre- and post-treatment protocols. This histological protocol included a 4% Hydroquinone positive control to validate the inhibitory potency of melanogenesis. Additionally, the melanogenic pathway was detailed via HPLC-DAD by quantifying eumelanin metabolites (PTCA and PDCA) and pheomelanin metabolites (TDCA). The clinical efficacy of the facial serum was conducted in women with facial hyperchromia (mean age 48 ± 10 anos; phototypes II to VI, using computational image analysis to evaluate skin tone homogenization and reduction in hyperchromia intensity (n=49 at 84 days). Skin hydration kinetics were determined by corneometry in 20 women with dry skin (age 50 ± 10 years; phototypes III to VI), measuring skin capacitance before application, and at 15 minutes, 4h, and 8h after a single use, as well as after 30 days of continuous use. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION The robustness of the facial serum's depigmenting action was initially confirmed by the ex vivo assay. Histological analysis using the Fontana-Masson technique demonstrated that UV radiation induced a critical increase of 493.3% in melanin synthesis in untreated controls (p<0.0001). Treatment with the serum significantly reduced this increase by 77.76% (pre-treatment protocol) and 77.81% (post-treatment protocol), exhibiting superior performance compared to 4% Hydroquinone (reductions of 73.01% and 64.77%, respectively). Complementarily, HPLC-DAD analysis revealed a 26% reduction in PTCA levels (eumelanin marker), suggesting that the mechanism of action involves direct modulation of the melanogenic pathway. Instrumental clinical efficacy, assessed by image analysis, showed a progressive and significant improvement in skin quality. At 84 days of continuous use, there was an average reduction of 18.8% in hyperchromia intensity (peaks up to 20.8%) and a 7.6% increase in overall skin tone homogeneity (p<0.0001). These quantitative data confirm the formulation's capacity to reduce pre-existing melanin deposits and promote long-term skin surface uniformity. In parallel, corneometry revealed an immediate 48.2% increase in hydration after 15 minutes, with a sustained effect for 8 hours (12.3%) after a single application. Continuous use for 30 days elevated basal hydration by 21.6% (p<0.0001), confirming that the treatment of dark spots occurs in an integrated manner with the maintenance of skin water integrity. CONCLUSION The evaluated facial serum presents an integrated solution for photoaging, combining potent melanogenesis inhibitory activity—with ex vivo performance superior to the gold standard—with progressive clinical efficacy in reducing hyperchromia and restoring the skin's hydric barrier.

POSTERS ABSTRACTS

COSMETOLOGY WITH A FOCUS ON SKIN HEALTH: EVALUATION OF THE EFFECTS OF A COSMETIC EMULSION IN INDIVIDUALS WITH AND WITHOUT STAGE I DERMATOPOROSIS

Authors

Juliana Rodrigues Pinto 1,2*, Silas Arandas Monteiro e Silva, Ana Lucia Tabarini Alves Pinheiro, Gislaine Ricci Leonardi

Affiliations

Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas da UNICAMP

Abstract

The increase in life expectancy makes attention to healthy skin aging essential. Cosmetics can contribute to this process, as the use of appropriate products helps maintain skin health and may prevent or delay the development of aging-associated conditions such as dermatoporosis. The term dermatoporosis (DP) refers to a syndrome characterized by skin fragility and chronic cutaneous insufficiency, associated with alterations in skin integrity (1). The clinical signs of DP manifest predominantly in photoexposed areas, with cutaneous atrophy, senile purpura, pseudoscars, and recurrent skin lacerations being the most frequent findings (2,3). Kaya and Saurat (4) proposed four severity stages for DP, with stage I characterized by the initial appearance of cutaneous atrophy, senile purpura, pseudoscars, and superficial excoriations. In advanced stages, DP shows limited response to dermocosmetic therapy; however, the use of appropriately formulated cosmetic products may assist in preventing and minimizing the clinical signs of stage I DP. Thus, early diagnosis is essential for the care of dermatoporotic skin. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the effect of a body cosmetic emulsion formulated with a high concentration of humectants on hydration, barrier function, and skin texture of photoexposed skin (dorsum of the hands) and photoprotected skin (volar forearm) in participants diagnosed with stage I DP, as well as to compare them with participants without a DP diagnosis. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The study was approved by the Research Ethics Committee (CAAE 29880820.2.0000.5404), and all participants signed an Informed Consent Form. Thirteen participants diagnosed with DP, aged 66 to 81 years, and seventeen participants without a diagnosis of the syndrome, aged 61 to 79 years, were included. Capacitance and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements were performed to assess skin hydration and barrier function, respectively. High-resolution microimages were obtained to evaluate skin texture. Assessments were conducted at baseline and after 45 days of use of the formulation containing a high concentration of humectants (1,3-propanediol 15%, butylene glycol 5%, and glycerin 5%). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The cosmetic emulsion promoted a significant increase in skin hydration in both photoexposed and photoprotected areas in participants with and without DP. Improvement in skin barrier function was observed only in participants without DP, in photoexposed skin, after 45 days of use. Similarly, improvement in skin texture occurred exclusively in the non-DP group, in both photoexposed and photoprotected regions. Despite the observed differences, no statistically significant differences between groups were identified for the three evaluated parameters. The results indicate the efficacy of the emulsion in improving skin hydration in both groups; however, the limited effects on barrier function and skin texture in participants with DP suggest that structural alterations associated with the syndrome may restrict responsiveness. CONCLUSIONS: The findings indicate that cosmetic formulations rich in humectants are effective in promoting skin hydration, including in individuals with early signs of dermatoporosis. Considering the importance of adequate hydration for maintaining the integrity and functionality of aging skin, the continuous use of appropriately formulated cosmetics represents a relevant strategy to prevent the progression of skin fragility. In this context, in-depth knowledge of the characteristics and limitations of aged and fragile skin is essential for the development of effective and safe cosmetic products, reinforcing the role of cosmetic science in promoting healthy skin aging.

RESIDUE EXTRACT OF Spondias tuberosa (UMBU) AS A NATURAL ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVE WITH POTENTIAL COSMETIC APPLICATION

Authors

Bruna Santana Neves, Maria Clara Botelho de Souza, Amanda Vitoria Pereira Teles, Júlia Victoria Vieira de Castro, Letícia Meira da Silva Queiroz, Catarina Silva Guimarães, Juliano Geraldo Amaral, Gabriel Azevedo de Brito Damasceno

Affiliations

1-Instituto Multidisciplinar em Saúde – Campus Anísio Teixeira / Universidade Federal da Bahia, Rua Hormindo Barros, 58, Candeias, Vitória da Conquista, Bahia.

2- Programa de Pós Graduação de Biociências – Campus Anísio Teixeira / Universidade Federal da Bahia, Rua Hormindo Barros, 58, Candeias, Vitória da Conquista, Bahia

Abstract

Spondias tuberosa, popularly known as umbu, is a native and endemic species of the Caatinga biome. The fruit presents a sweet flavor with pleasant acidity, making it attractive for fresh consumption or for use in desserts. During processing, the generated residue may correspond to up to 60% of the fruit’s total mass, consisting mainly of peel and pulp. These residues are rich in phenolic compounds, such as flavonoids, which are well known for their antioxidant activity. OBJECTIVE: In this context, the present study aimed to investigate the antioxidant activity of the umbu residue extract. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The umbu extract was obtained from the dried residue through turbo-extraction using 50% ethanol as solvent, according to a method previously established by the research group. Antioxidant activity was evaluated at six different extract concentrations (1, 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 mg/mL) using multiple assays. Iron (II) and copper (II) ion chelation assays, hydroxyl and superoxide radical scavenging assays, Total Antioxidant Capacity determination, DPPH assay, and reducing power evaluation were performed, using ascorbic acid as the reference standard. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: Iron (II) ion chelation activity ranged from 25.28 to 74.75%, while copper (II) ion chelation ranged from 85.05 to 94.81%. Hydroxyl radical scavenging activity varied between 24.26 and 74%, and superoxide radical scavenging activity ranged from 18.26 to 43.21%. Total Antioxidant Capacity ranged from 120.2 to 1192.6 g EQ/g of ascorbic acid. In the DPPH assay, inhibition percentages ranged from 72.54 to 91.8%. The reducing power assay showed values between 2.43 and 3.08%, expressed as equivalents to the mass of ascorbic acid used as the standard. The application of multiple antioxidant assays allowed the evaluation of different mechanisms of action along the oxidative cascade, including the initiation and propagation phases.CONCLUSION: Therefore, these results highlight the potential of Spondias tuberosa residues as a source of bioactive compounds for cosmetic formulations, contributing to the valorization of by-products and to the strengthening of sustainable practices within the production chain.

DEVELOPMENT AND EVALUATION OF TOPICAL FILMS CONTAINING ASCORBIC ACID

Authors

Nayara da Silva Lima, Mariane Massufero Vergilio e Gislaine Ricci Leonardi

Affiliations

Unicamp

Abstract

Polymeric topical films are characterized by the formation of a continuous layer on the skin after application, promoting prolonged contact with the cutaneous tissue, mechanical protection, and the potential for sustained release of active compounds. These systems stand out in cosmetology by combining functionality, safety, and differentiated sensory properties. Ascorbic acid (AA) is widely used in cosmetic formulations due to its antioxidant properties, stimulation of collagen synthesis, and skin tone–uniforming effects. However, its topical application is limited by high instability in predominantly aqueous liquid systems, since the presence of water accelerates oxidative processes, in addition to its sensitivity to light, oxygen, temperature, and pH, making the development of systems that preserve its integrity challenging. In this context, gelatin presents potential as a film-forming polymer due to its biocompatibility and ability to form structured networks. Its association with agents such as polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) or tapioca allows modulation of the mechanical, sensory, and stability properties of the film. AIMS: To develop and evaluate gelatin-based topical films containing ascorbic acid, comparing formulations associated with polyvinyl alcohol and tapioca, aiming to obtain stable and resistant systems with pleasant sensory properties and no evidence of preliminary degradation of the active compound. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Film-forming formulations containing ascorbic acid were developed using gelatin as the base polymer. In the first approach, gelatin was associated with PVA, using glycerin and polyethylene glycol as humectants and an appropriate preservative system. PVA was previously solubilized under heating, followed by the incorporation of the remaining components, with ascorbic acid added after cooling the formulation to temperatures below 35 °C. In the second approach, films based on gelatin and tapioca were prepared with a gelatin concentration of 10%, composed exclusively of food-grade raw materials, aiming at adequate mechanical resistance and high safety of use, including for labial application. The formulations were evaluated regarding film formation, resistance, cohesion, and sensory properties. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The developed formulations demonstrated that gelatin has potential as a film-forming polymer for topical systems containing ascorbic acid. In films formulated with gelatin and polyvinyl alcohol, the formation of continuous, homogeneous, and resistant films was observed, attributed to the good compatibility between the polymers. The presence of glycerin and polyethylene glycol contributed to film flexibility and more pleasant sensory characteristics. The incorporation of ascorbic acid under controlled temperature allowed its adequate preservation during preparation, with no visual changes indicative of preliminary degradation. In films structured with gelatin and tapioca, the composition enabled the formation of stable films with good formation and resistance, without interference of the preservative system in structural or sensory characteristics. In addition to structural properties, the films exhibited suitable sensory attributes for topical application, such as low tackiness after drying, formation of a continuous and homogeneous residual film, pleasant feel upon touch, and progressive softening at body temperature, promoting comfort during use. CONCLUSIONS: The results demonstrate the potential of the evaluated polymers for the development of stable topical films containing ascorbic acid, with good film formation, pleasant sensory properties, and absence of color changes in the formulation. Gelatin proved to be effective both when associated with polyvinyl alcohol and with tapioca, allowing modulation of the mechanical and sensory properties of the system.

PHYTOCHEMICAL SCREENING BY LC–MS OF HUMULUS LUPULUS L. (ZEUS VARIETY) EXTRACT CULTIVATED IN BRAZIL AND ITS POTENTIAL AS A COSMETIC INGREDIENT.

Authors

Herllon Karllos Athaydes Kerr1,3*, Giovana Chieza Madeira1, Julia Vieira Moreira1, Sophia Carvalho Souza1, Alan Reinke Pereira1, Nathália dos Santos Conceição1, Wanderson Romão1, Arthur Merigueti2, Rodrigo Scherer2, Marcella Leite Porto1,3

Affiliations

1Instituto Federal de Educação Ciência e Tecnologia do Espírito Santo (IFES) – Vila Velha, ES, Brasil.

2Universidade de Vila Velha – UVV, Vila Velha, ES, Brasil.

3Programa de Pós-Graduação em Bioquímica, Universidade Federal do Espírito Santo (UFES), Vitória, ES, Brasil.

Abstract

Humulus lupulus L., commonly known as hop, is a dioecious climbing plant belonging to the Cannabaceae family. Although traditionally used in the brewing industry, hops have attracted increasing interest from the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries due to the presence of bioactive compounds with antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties. These compounds, mainly concentrated in the lupulin glands of female cones, include flavonoids, phenolic acids, and bitter acid derivatives. In Brazil, the recent expansion of hop cultivation highlights the need for studies that characterize the chemical profile of varieties grown under national soil and climatic conditions, particularly with a focus on cosmetic applications. OBJECTIVE: To perform a qualitative chemical characterization of the ethanolic extract of Humulus lupulus L., Zeus variety, cultivated in Brazil, using liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC–MS), aiming to assess its applicability as a cosmetic ingredient. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Hop cones of the Zeus variety were dried, ground, and subjected to ethanolic extraction. The resulting extract was analyzed by liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry, operating in both positive and negative ionization modes, with full-scan acquisition for qualitative characterization. Compound identification was carried out by comparing the observed exact masses with analytical standards and data reported in the literature. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: Phytochemical screening revealed the presence of several compounds of cosmetic interest, including flavonoids such as xanthohumol, associated with antioxidant activity, as well as quercetin, kaempferol, rutin, and isorhamnetin, in addition to phenolic acids such as p-coumaric acid. Markers related to hop bitter acids were also detected. The qualitative profile observed in this study is consistent with previously reported biological activities, particularly antioxidant and antimicrobial effects, which are relevant for cosmetic formulations aimed at skin care. CONCLUSIONS: The ethanolic extract of Humulus lupulus L., Zeus variety, exhibits a qualitatively diverse phytochemical profile, supporting its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. The data obtained provide a scientific basis for future studies involving compound quantification, analytical validation, and functional evaluation, expanding the applicability of hops cultivated in Brazil within cosmetology.

BENEFITS OF USING BIOACTIVE COMPOUNDS FROM Artemisia annua OBTAINED THROUGH CLEAN AND SUSTAINABLE TECHNOLOGY FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF A NEW REPELLENT.

Authors

Flavia Airoldi1, Soraya ElKhatib1

Affiliations

1.S Cosméticos do bem indústria e comércio LTDA

Abstract

In Brazil, the incidence of arboviruses has been growing exponentially. The year 2025 is the ninth in a decade and a half, and the fourth in a row in which the total number of probable cases of dengue fever in the country exceeds one million. 1 The control of these vectors focuses mainly on the use of synthetic insecticides, which, despite their effectiveness, are directly related to environmental damage, toxicity to humans, and the risk of resistance in larvae and adult mosquitoes over time. The search for bioactive repellent compounds of natural origin has grown exponentially as an alternative. In this context, the plant species Artemisia annua L. (A. annua) has shown itself to be a potential source of compounds with therapeutic characteristics against such arboviruses.2 Arboviruses are transmitted by mosquitoes of the genus Aedes, with Aedes aegypti being their main vector.

Trying to solve this problem, the search for natural repellent compounds and/or mixtures has grown exponentially in recent years to remedy these problems. A potential compound with interesting therapeutic applications is the application of volatile oil (OV) from A. annua. This consists of an extract obtained by supercritical extraction that can be nano-encapsulated for incorporation into cosmetic formulations with repellent action tested in accordance with the standards recommended by RDC 19/13.3

A. annua is a plant native to Asia with aromatic leaves that contain various classes of compounds, such as flavonoids, sterols, phenols, terpenes, lactones, essential oils, polysaccharides, saponins, coumarins, carboxylic acids, and polyphenols.4,5 In this study, icaridin, an active ingredient in insect repellents, synthetic and derived from a substance found in pepper, was combined with A. annua extract. OBJECTIVES: The main objective of this study was developing a safe and effective repellent that can be used by dermatologically vulnerable populations, pregnant women, and babies. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Supercritical fluid extraction (SFE), a sustainable extraction method without CO2 emissions and without the use of organic solvents, was used to obtain bioactive fractions of A. annua. Gas chromatography coupled with mass spectroscopy (GC/MS, Agilent) was used to standardize and identify all compounds of interest in the A. annua extract and repellent analysis. Icaridin and A. annua extract were nanoencapsulated in Zeta particles and incorporated into an O/A lotion, under the technical responsibility of pharmaceutical professionals from S Cosméticos do bem, NANOVETORES, and ESSÊNCIA DIFIORI, in accordance with current legislation. The efficacy studies of this new repellent were verified using different mosquitoes, such as Anopheles, Culex, and Aedes aegypti species. RESULTS: The results showed that the extract obtained from A. annua consists of a complex mixture of monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, flavonoids, and coumarins that enhance the repellent action. The interaction between nanoicaridin and A. annua extract developed in these studies resulted in a new formulation with half the concentration of icaridin found in conventional repellents, providing 6 hours of efficacy for the different mosquitoes tested. The formulation proved to be very safe according to the studies conducted. It is also evident that the formulation suggests a synergy between icaridin and A. annua extract with increased safety due to the application of nanotechnology for both active and bioactive ingredients. CONCLUSION: These results are promising in terms of mosquito repellency and sustainable biological cosmetics. The SFE technique showed very efficient potential for obtaining a fraction of several compounds known selectively for their repellent capacity. The combination of the biocomponents of A. annua with icaridin, both nanoencapsulated, resulted in a new effective and safe product, especially for dermatologically vulnerable populations, pregnant women, and babies.

EVALUATION OF THE PHOTOPROTECTIVE POTENTIAL AND PHOTOSTABILITY OF COSMETIC FORMULATIONS CONTAINING JAMBOLAN EXTRACT (Syzygium cumini)

Authors

Lívia Maria da Costa Dantas1*, Jamile Vitória Alves Freire1, Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto2, André Baby Rolim2, Cristiane Fernandes de Assis1, Francisco Canindé de Sousa Júnior1, Elissa Arantes Ostrosky1

Affiliations

1 Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte, Natal, Brasil; 2 Universidade de São Paulo, São Paulo, Brasil

Abstract

The jambolan fruit (Syzigium cumini) is rich in phenolic compounds known for their antioxidant properties (Santos et al., 2024). With a seasonal harvest, most of its production is wasted, making it a low-cost raw material for extracting bioactive compounds (Silva et al., 2023). Due to its chemical composition, jambolan has great potential for use in cosmetic products, helping to combat the harmful effects of UV radiation on the skin and contributing to slowing down the process of skin photoaging (Papaccio et al., 2022). OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the photoprotective potential of jambolan extract incorporated into cosmetic formulations containing synthetic UV filters at different concentrations. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Phenolic compounds were extracted with methanol, followed by rotary evaporation and lyophilization, obtaining jambolan extract (JE). Formulations containing JE (2.5% and 10%) and the sunscreens Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) were prepared at maximum (SS1: 5% Avobenzone and 10% EHMC) and minimum (SS2: 2.5% Avobenzone and 5% EHMC) concentrations. The sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength (nm) were measured using a Labsphere UV2000S analyzer (Sarruf et al., 2020). For photostability, the same substrates containing the samples were irradiated for up to 90 minutes with artificial UV radiation (Cândido et al., 2022). Statistical analyses were performed in GraphPad Prism 8.0.2, using Analysis of Variance and Tukey's post-hoc test (p < 0.05). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The formulations containing JE presented SPF values ranging from 16.0 ± 2.0 to 28.0 ± 2.0 according to the concentration of JE and UV filters, with formulation F2 (10% JE + SS1) standing out with the highest value obtained. Formulation F4 (10% JE + SS2) obtained an SPF of 18.0 ± 0.0 and showed no statistical difference when compared to F1 (2.5% JE + SS1), demonstrating that the bioactive compounds in JE enhance the effectiveness of the UV filters. These findings support a 50% reduction in the amount of UV filters while maintaining the same SPF, making the formulation safer and reducing the risk of irritation and adverse reactions commonly associated with the use of synthetic UV filters (Ballestín; Bartolomé, 2023). Formulations containing only UV filters had SPF 11.5 ± 0.5 (SS1) and 9.0 ± 0.0 (SS2), which were significantly lower than those of formulations with added JE. Formulations containing only JE did not reveal relevant SPF values, indicating that the photoprotective potential manifests itself through synergistic interaction with sunscreens, optimizing the system and increasing the SPF (Dario et al., 2025). After 90 minutes of irradiation (t90), the SPF of the formulations showed a marked decrease compared to t0, with a decay of up to 85.7% for F3 (2.5% JE + SS2). This decay is attributed to the photochemical incompatibility between the combined UV filters: Avobenzone is intrinsically photolabile and degrades rapidly under UV light, EHMC tends to be more stable, but the chemical interaction between them enhances the degradation of the system, compromising the maintenance of SPF over time (Safian et al., 2025). For this reason, both formulations with added JE and those with isolated sunscreens showed a significant reduction in SPF at t90. CONCLUSIONS: The incorporation of JE into cosmetic formulations containing synthetic UV filters promotes a synergistic photoprotective effect. These findings reveal the potential of jambolan as a bioactive agent, offering a natural and low-cost alternative for optimizing SPF. In addition, as long jambolan is a seasonal fruit, these results highlight the use of a sustainable and high-value-added strategy for the cosmetics industry, driving the development of more effective products based on natural phytochemicals.

FROM CHEMISTRY TO BELONGING: THE TEACHING OF CHEMICAL BONDING APPLIED TO HAIR COSMETOLOGY FOR HAIR WITH NATURAL CURL PATTERNS

Authors

Jessica Lopes dos Reis 1,2*, Henrique Abreu Frizzera2, Júlia Vieira Moreira 3, Herllon Karllos Athayde Kerr 4, Fabiana da Silva Kauark 1,3 , Marcella Porto Tavares 1,4

Affiliations

1 Programa de Pós-Graduação Mestrado Profissional em Química – PROFQUI, Vila Velha, Brasil;2 Secretária de Educação do Estado do Espírito Santo – SEDU, Vitória, Brasil; 3 Instituto Federal do Espírito Santo - IFES, Vila Velha, Brasil; 4 Programa de Pós-Graduação em Bioquímica, Universidade Federal do Espírito Santo (UFES), Vitória, ES, Brasil.

Abstract

Historically, in Brazil, curly and coily hair has been associated with Eurocentric aesthetic standards and has frequently been the target of discrimination, which has negatively impacted the self-esteem and identity formation of young people, especially Black women1. This context led many individuals to resort to chemical straightening procedures in order to conform to socially imposed standards2. In recent years, a significant change in this scenario has been observed, driven by movements that value hair diversity and by the development of cosmetic formulations specifically designed for hair with natural curl patterns. Within this context, hair cosmetology emerges as a powerful pedagogical tool to contextualize Chemistry content, bringing abstract concepts closer to students’ realities and promoting a sense of belonging and identity recognition 4,5. OBJECTIVES: The present study aimed to investigate the potential of teaching chemical bonding and intermolecular interactions applied to hair cosmetology as a didactic strategy for understanding different hair curl patterns and for promoting a sense of belonging and autonomy among high school students at the public school EEEFM Almirante Barroso. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The research was carried out within a semester-long elective course, with multigrade classes, totaling 13 weekly sessions lasting 1 hour and 40 minutes each. Initially, students were introduced to the theoretical concepts of hair biochemistry, hair fiber structure, and types of chemical bonds through dialogical expository classes6. Subsequently, practical hair styling activities were conducted using two types of commercial styling products and three different techniques (fitagem, finger coils, and rake and shake). Each styling product was associated with a specific technique. Students used creams, combs, brushes, towels, and finishing oils provided by the school. At the end of the activities, participants recorded images of their hair after styling and completed a questionnaire via Google Forms, reporting their perceptions regarding volume, frizz, definition, durability of the effect, and personal preference. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: High levels of student participation and engagement were observed, with reports indicating greater understanding of the chemical concepts related to hair structure and the mechanisms of action of cosmetic products. The results indicated a preference for techniques that provided greater definition, even though they required more execution time, revealing a direct relationship between technical knowledge, aesthetic expectations, and method selection. Increased adherence by male students to the use of styling products was also observed, motivated by the search for scientific information and by the lack of market-oriented references aimed at this audience. The activity fostered discussions on identity, autonomy, and conscious choices, in addition to enabling critical analysis of cosmetic formulations based on individual needs. CONCLUSIONS: The application of hair cosmetology as a pedagogical resource proved to be effective in contextualizing the teaching of chemical bonding, promoting meaningful learning, technical understanding, and appreciation of hair diversity. The strategy contributed to the development of student autonomy in choosing products and styling techniques, while also strengthening feelings of belonging and freedom of expression, highlighting the potential of applied Chemistry as an educational and social tool.

UNREGULATED SKINCARE CONTENT ON TIKTOK: A CRITICAL ANALYSIS OF FOOD AS COSMETICS

Authors

Rafaela Forcin Cazumbá¹*, Gislaine Ricci Leonardi²

Affiliations

¹Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas (FCF) - Universidade estadual de Campinas, Campinas, Brasil; ² Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas (FCF) - Universidade estadual de Campinas, Campinas, Brasil

Abstract

In recent years, digital platforms such as TikTok have played a pivotal role in the dissemination of cosmetic-related information, particularly among young audiences, due to their vast reach and the rapid circulation of audiovisual content. Unlike scientific or institutional sources, content shared on TikTok does not undergo formal review or technical validation, constituting an unregulated source of health information. Given this scenario, it is essential to investigate the nature of the information shared on the platform, as well as its potential impacts on public behavior regarding skincare. OBJECTIVES: This study aimed to analyze TikTok videos that utilize food items as skincare cosmetics, identifying the primary ingredients used, the attributed purposes, the creators' profiles, and engagement metrics. MATERIAL AND METHODS: This is an analysis of 25 videos published in Portuguese and English, selected based on the terms “homemade skincare” and “skincare caseira.” The study evaluated the food items used, the promised benefits, the creators' origins, and the number of views, likes, and comments for each video. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The results indicated that the most frequent food items were honey (28%), rice (20%), and coffee (16%), with a predominance of fruit in Brazilian videos and dairy products in international markets. Brazilian videos showed lower engagement compared to English-language content, likely due to the latter’s global reach. CONCLUSIONS: It is concluded that, despite the occasional presence of ingredients with properties described in scientific literature, most of the analyzed content lacks technical and scientific grounding, potentially encouraging inadequate skincare practices. These findings underscore the importance of digital scientific literacy and the role of healthcare professionals in guiding the public on the risks associated with the misuse of homemade recipes shared on social media. Finally, it is highlighted that cosmetic products and food items are subject to distinct regulatory frameworks. Therefore, the fact that an ingredient is safe for ingestion does not guarantee its safety or efficacy for topical use, reinforcing that the direct application of food to the skin may not only be ineffective but also pose risks, especially when performed without scientific support.

CHARACTERIZATION AND STABILITY EVALUATION OF MELATONIN FOR APPLICATIONS IN COSMETICS FORMULATIONS

Authors

Beatriz Cruz Bonato¹,*, Ranna Batista Wanzeler², Jessica Lopes dos Reis¹,3, Wanderson Romao¹, Márcio Fronza4, Herllon Karllos Athaydes Kerr¹,², Vitor Cezar Broetto Pegoretti¹, Marcella Porto Tavares²,3

Affiliations

¹Instituto Federal do Espírito Santo - IFES, Vila Velha, Brasil; ²Programa de Pós-Graduação em Bioquímica, Universidade Federal do Espírito Santo (UFES), Vitória, Brasil; 3 Programa de Pós-Graduação Mestrado Profissional em Química - PROFQUI, Vila Velha, Brasil; 4 Programa de Pós-Graduação em Ciências Farmacêuticas - UVV, Vila Velha, Brasil

Abstract

Melatonin is an endogenous substance produced mainly by the pineal gland, related to the regulation of the circadian rhythm, and also exhibiting antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects¹. Recent studies have highlighted its potential in cosmetic applications, especially in formulations aimed at protecting the skin against oxidative processes and skin aging². However, the use of this active ingredient in cosmetic products requires rigorous analytical control. Despite growing scientific interest, melatonin is not yet authorized by the Brazilian National Health Surveillance Agency (Anvisa) as a cosmetic ingredient, as it is a molecule with recognized systemic hormonal activity3,4. Therefore, this study seeks to generate robust scientific data on the safety and stability of melatonin, which can support future discussions about its safe incorporation into cosmetic formulations, aligning biotechnological innovation and regulatory compliance. OBJECTIVES: To develop and validate an analytical method for determining the presence and content of melatonin in samples intended for cosmetic use, as well as to investigate its behavior under different degradation conditions. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Melatonin samples were obtained from commercial tablets, subjected to fractionation on a laboratory scale. Each tablet contains 10 mg of melatonin, in addition to excipients such as dextrose, microcrystalline cellulose, crospovidone, maltodextrin, gum arabic, silicon dioxide, among others5. To prepare the solutions, 11.6 tablets were dissolved in 10 mL of 96% ethanol, resulting in a final solution with a concentration of 50 mM (11.6 mg/mL)6. The solubilization was performed following methodologies previously developed and validated by the research group, ensuring reproducibility and experimental reliability. Melatonin quantification and characterization were performed by reversed-phase High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (RP-HPLC)7. A standard solution was prepared from pharmaceutical-grade secondary standard melatonin (Sigma-Aldrich). The tablets were weighed, crushed, and subjected to extraction with an appropriate solvent, followed by agitation, sonication, and filtration. Chromatographic analyses were conducted as described in the literature. The stability of melatonin will be studied using forced degradation assays, including exposure to light, temperature variations, pH changes, and oxidative conditions. RESULTS: The developed method is expected to allow for adequate quantification of melatonin even in complex cosmetic matrices, demonstrating the ability to separate the active ingredient from potential degradation products. The stability profile analysis should generate relevant information for understanding factors that affect its integrity, contributing to the improvement of formulation development and quality control of products containing this active ingredient. CONCLUSION: The proposed analytical method shows potential for the identification and quantification of melatonin in matrices intended for cosmetic use, as well as for the evaluation of its stability. The data obtained may provide scientific support for the safe and effective use of this compound as a promising ingredient in new dermatological formulations.

MULTIFUNCTIONAL REPELLENT FORMULATION: IN VIVO EVIDENCE OF SAFETY, ANTI-INFLAMMATORY ACTIVITY, AND SKIN BARRIER STRENGTHENING

Authors

Bruna Santiago de Oliveira Silva1*, Thalita Marcílio Cândido2, Fabiana Vieira Lima Solino Pessoa3, Maria Valéria Robles Velasco1, Catarina Rosado2, André Rolim Baby1

Affiliations

1 Departamento de Farmácia, Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas, Universidade de São Paulo, São Paulo, SP, Brasil; 2 CBIOS - Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, Universidade Lusófona, Lisboa, Portugal; 3 Departamento de Ciências da Saúde/Curso de Farmácia, Universidade Federal do Espírito Santo, São Mateus, ES, Brasil

Abstract

Mosquitoes are vectors for the spread of various arboviruses and many of which are not preventable by vaccination [1]. Arbovirus transmission is influenced by precipitation, temperature, urbanization, and the distribution of the main vector mosquito, Aedes aegypti , thus, with increasing urbanization and climate change, the trend is for infections to also increase [2,3]. Due to the challenge in containing the spread of mosquitoes, an alternative to mitigate the problems and inconveniences caused by the bite is the adoption of individual protection measures, one of the most effective being the use of repellent formulations. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the in vivo biocompatibility (safety), anti-inflammatory activity, and effects on superficial skin hydration and transepidermal water loss of multifunctional repellent cosmetic formulations. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Oil-in-water emulsions were prepared containing the repellent active IR3535 associated with benzophenone-3 and a commercial mixture of natural polysaccharides (F2), as well as a base formulation without actives (F1, placebo). Experiments involving participants were conducted in accordance with the principles of the Declaration of Helsinki and current ethical standards, following approval by the FCF-USP Ethics Committee (CAAE 86886525.2.0000.0067). Participants received full information about the proposed studies and provided oral and written informed consent. In the skin biocompatibility study, formulations were applied for 24 h to the volar forearms of participants (n = 4) using an occlusive patch. Signs of potential skin irritation (e.g., redness) were visually assessed [4]. For the anti-inflammatory activity, forearm areas (n = 10) were demarcated for sample application or used as untreated controls. After cleansing, samples were applied for 30 min, followed by erythema induction with 0.5% (w/v) methyl nicotinate for 60 s. Blood flow was immediately monitored for 15 min using laser Doppler flowmetry. Skin hydration and transepidermal water loss were evaluated using Corneometer CM 825 and Tewameter TM Hex probes (Courage + Khazaka). Samples were applied to clean, dry forearms (n = 12), and triplicate measurements were obtained at baseline and after 1 and 2 h of application. Data were analyzed using t-tests or ANOVA followed by Fisher in Minitab software with a 95% confidence interval. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: All samples exhibited cutaneous biocompatibility, with no macroscopic signs of irritation or damage, indicating safety. The anti-inflammatory profile was evaluated using slope, T onset (time to maximum response, in seconds), and area under the curve. Among these parameters, T onset distinguished the active-containing formulation (F2) from the untreated site and the placebo (F1) (p < 0.05), indicating that F2 delayed the increase in dermal microcirculation induced by methyl nicotinate. Although this profile indicates topical anti-inflammatory activity, the other parameters did not show marked differences [5]. Formulation F2 showed a significant increase in skin hydration (p < 0.05) compared to A1 at both evaluated times, with an increase of 104.41 ± 25.99% after 2 h. In addition, F2 promoted a progressive reduction in transepidermal water loss, reaching the greatest reduction after 2 h (34.55 ± 9.78%). CONCLUSIONS: The multifunctional repellent dermocosmetic formulation proved to be safe and biocompatible and exhibited anti-inflammatory activity by delaying the onset of erythema. Additionally, it promoted a significant increase in superficial skin hydration and strengthening of the skin barrier function, representing an effective strategy for integrated protection against solar radiation and disease-carrying vectors.

UPCYCLING IN THE COFFEE PRODUCTION CHAIN OF SOUTHWESTERN BAHIA: ANTIOXIDANT POTENTIAL OF Coffea arabica RESIDUE

Authors

Maria Clara Botelho de Sousa1*, Amanda Vitoria Pereira Teles1, Júlia Victoria Vieira de Castro1, Letícia Meira da Silva Queiroz1, Bruna Santana Neves1, Catarina Silva Guimarães1, Juliano Geraldo Amaral1, Gabriel Azevedo de Brito Damasceno1

Affiliations

¹ Instituto Multidisciplinar em Saúde, Universidade Federal da Bahia, Vitória da Conquista-BA, Brasil.

Abstract

Coffee (Coffea arabica) is one of Brazil’s main agricultural products, and its processing generates large amounts of residues, including “palha melosa”. This byproduct contains bioactive compounds, such as chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, and phenolic compounds, which exhibit potential antioxidant properties of interest to the cosmetic industry (Ayyandurai et al., 2025; Tsigkou et al., 2025). Antioxidant biomolecules act against the damage caused by oxidative stress, which results from an imbalance between the production and degradation of reactive species; this process is directly related to skin aging (Barreto et al., 2020). OBJECTIVES: Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant potential of plant extracts obtained from Coffea arabica residue at different points of the oxidative cascade. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The residue was donated by coffee producers from the region of Barra do Choça, Bahia, Brazil, and the extract was obtained by ultrasound-assisted extraction using 30% ethanol, according to a previously standardized methodology. Antioxidant activity was evaluated in vitro using total antioxidant capacity (TAC) assays (Prieto, Pineda, & Aguilar, 1999), reducing power (Wang et al., 2008), chelation of copper (Cu²⁺) (Anton, 1960) and iron (Fe²⁺) (Decker & Welch, 1990); scavenging capacity of superoxide radicals (O2-) (Dasgupta & De, 2004) and hydroxyl radicals (OH-) (Smirnoff & Cumbes, 1998); and scavenging capacity of the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical (Brand-Williams, Cuvelier, & Berset, 1995). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The extract was evaluated at concentrations of 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 mg/mL and exhibited high in vitro antioxidant activity. In the TAC assay, values ranged from 341.51 to 1673.22 mg/g, while reducing power results ranged from 25.77 to 76.10 mg/g, both expressed as ascorbic acid equivalents. Metal ion chelation assays indicated that the extract exhibits activity via copper ion chelation, with a result of 76.24% at the lowest concentration evaluated. In addition, the extract showed activity in both superoxide and hydroxyl radical scavenging assays, with values ranging from 21.50 to 53.40% and from 8.42 to 22.49%, respectively. Finally, the sample was able to scavenge the DPPH radical at all tested concentrations, with emphasis on the concentration of 10 mg/mL, at which an activity of 83.85% was observed. CONCLUSIONS: Thus, it was observed that the “palha melosa” extract exhibited antioxidant activity through different mechanisms, acting at distinct points of the oxidative cascade, which highlights the potential of this byproduct as an antioxidant active of interest to the cosmetic industry. Therefore, this research contributes to the growing demand for innovation in the field of cosmetology by promoting the efficient use and valorization of C. arabica residue.

IN VIVO PERFORMANCE OF MULTIFUNCTIONAL FORMULATIONS CONTAINING GLYCOLIC EXTRACT OF Pereskia aculeata MILL.: SUPERFICIAL SKIN HYDRATION AND TRANSEPIDERMAL WATER LOSS

Authors

Rayan de Sousa Ferreira1,*, Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto1, Fabiana Vieira Lima Solino Pessoa2, Maria Valéria Robles Velasco1, André Rolim Baby1

Affiliations

1 Departamento de Farmácia, Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas, Universidade de São Paulo, São Paulo, SP, Brasil; 2 Departamento de Ciências da Saúde/Curso de Farmácia, Universidade Federal do Espírito Santo, São Mateus, ES, Brasil

Abstract

Skin hydration and the integrity of the skin barrier function are fundamental factors for maintaining skin homeostasis, with transepidermal water loss (TEWL) being an important indicator of this function. The application of cosmetic formulations may directly influence these parameters, especially when associated with active compounds of natural origin with potential bioactivity. Pereskia aculeata Mill., known as Ora-pro-nobis, presents several phenolic compounds with evidence of antioxidant properties (DE FREITAS et al., 2021; MACIEL et al., 2021; SOUZA et al., 2016; TOMIAK et al., 2023), which may act as adjuvants in photoprotection by assisting in the neutralization of reactive species induced by ultraviolet (UV) radiation, making the investigation of its effects on superficial skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) relevant. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate in vivo the effects of sunscreen formulations containing different concentrations of P. aculeata Mill. glycolic extract on superficial skin hydration and TEWL. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Three oil-in-water sunscreen formulations were evaluated: control (placebo) and formulations containing 5.0% and 10.0% of P. aculeata Mill. glycolic extract. The in vivo study was conducted with 12 adult research participants of both sexes with healthy skin. The protocol was approved by the Research Ethics Committee of the School of Pharmaceutical Sciences of the University of São Paulo (CAAE: 86881225.2.0000.0067). The formulations were applied to the volar forearm (2.0 mg/cm²). Superficial skin hydration was measured using a Corneometer CM 825 and TEWL using a Tewameter TM Hex at baseline (T0), and 30, 60, and 120 minutes after application, under controlled environmental conditions (SOUZA NETO et al., 2023). Data were analyzed using nonparametric tests for repeated measures (Friedman test, followed by paired Wilcoxon test), adopting p < 0.05. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: At baseline, no significant differences were observed among the formulations regarding skin hydration and TEWL. After application, the formulation containing 10.0% extract showed a significant increase in superficial skin hydration at 30, 60, and 120 minutes, whereas the 5.0% formulation showed an intermediate increase. The control formulation did not present significant variations over time. In the comparison among formulations, the 10.0% formulation presented significantly higher hydration values than the others at all post-application time points. TEWL showed a significant reduction after application in all formulations. A difference among samples was observed at 30 minutes, with lower TEWL values for the formulation containing 10.0% extract compared to the control. At subsequent time points, no significant differences among formulations were observed. These results may be attributed to the presence of hydrophilic and bioactive compounds in the extract, capable of acting as humectants and reinforcing the skin barrier, promoting a concentration-dependent increase in superficial hydration, in agreement with data previously described in the literature (CHOI et al., 2023; PREEDALIKIT et al., 2025; YIMAM et al., 2018). CONCLUSIONS: Sunscreen formulations containing P. aculeata Mill. glycolic extract promoted measurable in vivo changes in superficial skin hydration and TEWL parameters, with a more pronounced effect for the formulation containing 10.0% extract.

LEARNING pH THROUGH PROBLEMATIZED EXPERIMENTAL ACTIVITY (PEA) IN COSMETOLOGY: AN INVESTIGATIVE APPROACH TO CHEMISTRY TEACHING

Authors

Rodrigo do Nascimento Borreti1,2*, Júlia Vieira Moreira3, Sophia Carvalho3, Fabiana da Silva Kauark1, Paulo Rogerio Garcez de Moura1,4, Marcella Leite Porto1

Affiliations

1Programa de Mestrado Profissional em Química em Rede Nacional -PROFQUI, Instituto Federal do Espírito Santo – IFES, Vila Velha, ES, Brasil.

2Secretaria de Educação do Espirito Santo - SEDU

3Instituto Federal do Espírito Santo – IFES, Vila Velha, ES, Brasil.

4Universidade Federal do Espírito Santo (UFES), Vitória, Espírito Santo, Brasil

Abstract

Cosmetology constitutes an interdisciplinary field relevant to Chemistry teaching, as it enables the contextualization of abstract scientific concepts through everyday situations. The potential of hydrogen (pH), frequently associated with mathematical calculations and approached theoretically in High School, represents a challenge for students' conceptual understanding. In this context, Problematized Experimental Activity (PEA/AEP) stands out as an active methodology that values experimentation, investigation, and student protagonism, bringing scientific knowledge closer to the students' reality. OBJECTIVES: To apply the Problematized Experimental Activity methodology in teaching the concept of pH in High School, using the production of a handcrafted cosmetic as a pedagogical tool to promote meaningful learning and scientific literacy. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The study was approved by the Ethics Committee (CEP: 85377724.2.0000.5072) and developed with 55 second-year High School students from a public school in the state of Espírito Santo. The pedagogical intervention took place over ten classes, involving theoretical and experimental moments, focusing on the production of a lip gloss ("Magic Gloss") containing the Red pH Color indicator, capable of changing its color according to the skin's pH. The activities followed the methodological axes of PEA, encompassing planning (problematization and definition of guidelines) and execution (experimental classes). Learning assessment was conducted through Likert-scale pre and post-tests, in addition to recording student perceptions in a Logbook. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The results indicated that, initially, students had difficulty relating the concepts of acids, bases, and pH to everyday situations. After the pedagogical intervention, a significant evolution in conceptual understanding was observed, with an increase of approximately 80% in overall performance. Furthermore, 96% of students considered the experimental activity fundamental for understanding pH variation in the human body and its importance in cosmetic products. The approach favored engagement, autonomy, the retention of abstract content, and the perception of Chemistry as a science applied to health and aesthetics. CONCLUSION: The integration of Problematized Experimental Activity with cosmetic production proved to be an effective strategy for teaching the concept of pH in High School. The methodology contributed to overcoming learning based on the memorization of formulas, promoting the active construction of knowledge, the development of investigative skills, and scientific literacy, bringing scientific content closer to the students' reality and strengthening their citizenship training.

ANTI-ACNE POTENTIAL OF THE ETHANOLIC EXTRACT OF HUMULUS LUPULUS L. VAR. ZEUS

Authors

Sophia Carvalho Souzaa*, Julia Vieira Moreiraa, Maurycio Côgo Pereiraa, Giovana Chieza Madeiraa, Herllon Karllos Athaydes Kerrc, Marcio Fronzab, Vitor Cezar Broetto Pegorettia, Marcella Leite Portoa,c

Affiliations

aInstituto Federal do Espírito Santo,Vila Velha, ES, Brasil.

bPrograma de Pós-Graduação em Ciências Farmacêuticas - Universidade de Vila Velha, Vila Velha, ES, Brasil.

cPrograma de Pós-Graduação em Bioquímica - Universidade Federal do Espírito Santo, Vitória, ES, Brasil.

Abstract

Acne vulgaris is a multifactorial inflammatory dermatosis associated with increased sebum production, alterations in follicular keratinization, exacerbated inflammatory response, and proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes, representing one of the main dermatological complaints and significantly impacting quality of life¹. The search for effective and safe cosmetic products for the care of acne-prone skin has driven the development of formulations with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity². Although conventional actives are widely used, their continuous use may be associated with adverse effects, skin irritation, and bacterial resistance, which reinforces the interest in ingredients of natural origin with a safety profile compatible with cosmetic use³. In this context, Humulus lupulus L. var. zeus stands out as a promising source of bioactive compounds, especially xanthohumol, associated with antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties, suggesting potential application in anti-acne cosmetology²,⁴. These compounds act by inhibiting bacterial growth and modulating the inflammatory response, conferring potential to the extract as a cosmetic ingredient⁵. OBJECTIVES: In this scenario, the present study aimed to evaluate the safety and antimicrobial potential of the ethanolic extract of Humulus lupulus L. var. zeus, aiming at its application in cosmetic formulations intended for acne-prone skin. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The extract was obtained by maceration of the strobili in 95% P.A. ethanol, followed by solvent removal, according to principles described in official compendia for the preparation of plant extracts⁶. To evaluate the safety of the extract, solutions at concentrations of 1, 5, 10, 25, and 50 μg/mL were prepared and tested on L929 fibroblast cells for 12 and 24 hours. Post-treatment cell viability was determined by the Trypan Blue Exclusion assay, while the metabolic activity of viable cells was analyzed using 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT). Statistical analysis was performed by one-way ANOVA using GraphPad Prism 8 software, adopting p<0.05 as the significance level. After validation of the extract safety, a basic cosmetic serum containing 10% of the ethanolic extract of H. lupulus L. var. zeus was developed, prepared from a stock solution at 10 mg/mL. The antimicrobial potential of the serum was evaluated against Cutibacterium acnes (ATCC 11827) using the Minimum Inhibitory Concentration (MIC) technique. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The results demonstrated that the extract maintained cell viability above 90% in the Trypan Blue assay at both evaluated times. In the MTT assay, all tested concentrations preserved metabolic activity above 75%, indicating a preliminary safety profile compatible with cosmetic use. Regarding the microbiological assay, the formulation was tested at different concentrations and showed antimicrobial activity in all evaluated dilutions, indicating an inhibitory effect against the microorganism of interest. These results suggest that the incorporation of the extract into the cosmetic vehicle preserved its biological activity, reinforcing the potential application of the ingredient in products intended for the care of acne-prone skin. This activity can be mainly attributed to xanthohumol, recognized for its bactericidal action, in addition to the contribution of flavonoids, which help reduce inflammation and protect against oxidative damage². CONCLUSIONS: It is concluded that the ethanolic extract of Humulus lupulus L. var. zeus presents a safe profile for cosmetic use and relevant antimicrobial activity against C. acnes, positioning itself as a promising natural raw material for the development of cosmetic products intended for the care of acne-prone skin.

EVALUATION OF THE SAFETY AND IN VITRO EFFICACY OF A MICELLAR WATER FORMULATION CONTAINING D-PANTHENOL IN HUMAN KERATINOCYTES (HaCaT)

Authors

Jéssica Kethelyn Da Silva Santosa*, Ludmila Rosario Camposb, Sophia Carvalho Souzaa, Rebeca Ribeiro Leitea, Márcio Fronzac, Samyra Prata Maquarted, Thiago Engel Dominguesd, Márcio Gabriel Venturini Dipalmad, Marcella Leite Portoa,b

Affiliations

aInstituto Federal do Espírito Santo, Vila Velha, Brasil; bUniversidade Federal Do Espírito Santo, Vitória, Brasil; c Universidade de Vila Velha, Vila Velha, Brasil; dGriffus Cosméticos, Cariacica, Brasil

Abstract

Micellar water has established itself as an essential product in skincare routines, valued for its ability to promote gentle and effective cleansing. Its formulation is based on the action of surfactants that form micelles, capable of encapsulating and removing impurities1. However, continuous skin exposure to certain surfactants can promote undesirable interactions with stratum corneum proteins and lipids, resulting in dryness, compromised skin barrier, and potential irritation2. In response to these limitations, modern formulations seek to balance cleansing efficiency and skin tolerability by combining milder surfactant systems with repairing active ingredients, such as D-panthenol (pro-vitamin B5), recognized for its moisturizing action and for contributing to the strengthening of the skin barrier3,4. Despite wide market acceptance, many products are still launched without prior experimental validation that proves the efficacy of the combination of these active ingredients at the cellular level. Thus, in vitro studies using human keratinocytes become fundamental for evaluating the biological compatibility of these formulations5. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the safety and in vitro efficacy of a micellar water formulation containing D-panthenol. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The immortalized human keratinocyte cell line HaCaT was used, a widely accepted in vitro model for evaluating the toxicity and skin irritation of cosmetic ingredients and formulations5. Cells were exposed to different concentrations of micellar water containing D-panthenol, compared to a base formulation without the active ingredient. The safety of the formulation was evaluated using the MTT (3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide) cell viability assay, which measures cellular metabolic activity as an indicator of cytotoxicity6. Absorbance was measured in a microplate spectrophotometer, allowing the determination of the safety profile and the protective potential of D-panthenol against the surfactant system of the formulation. Statistical analysis of the data was conducted using one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA one-way), using GraphPad Prism 8 software, adopting p < 0.05 as the criterion for statistical significance. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The ongoing in vitro assays aim to indicate whether the formulation presents low or no cytotoxicity in the studied epidermal cells. The analysis of the obtained data will allow highlighting the role of D-panthenol in preserving cell viability against the action of surfactants, suggesting a safety profile compatible with daily use. The discussion will be conducted by comparing the complete formulation and the control base, allowing an understanding of the impact of associating the active ingredient with the cleansing system. The confirmation of the safety and potential protective effect of D-panthenol in a relevant cellular model, such as the HaCaT cell line, will provide a consistent scientific basis to support claims of gentleness and efficacy of the formulation, reinforcing the relevance of in vitro assays in evaluating the safety of cosmetic products. CONCLUSION: The research aims to provide data on the safety and in vitro efficacy of micellar water with D-panthenol. The results will contribute to the scientific validation of the formulation, highlighting the importance of laboratory research at the interface between academia and industry for advancing the production of products with proven efficacy.

IN VITRO SAFETY ASSESSMENT OF NIACINAMIDE AND ROSEMARY GLYCOLIC EXTRACT IN HUMAN KERATINOCYTES

Authors

Ludmila Rosario Campos¹*, Jéssica Kethelyn da Silva Santos², Sophia Carvalho Souza2, Rebeca Ribeiro Leite2, Thiago Engel Domingues3, Márcio Gabriel Venturini Dipalma3, Samyra Prata Maquarte3, Marcella Leite Porto1,2

Affiliations

¹Universidade Federal do Espírito Santo, Vitória, Brasil; ²Instituto Federal do Espírito Santo, Vila Velha, Brasil; 3Griffus Cosméticos, Cariacica, Brasil;

Abstract

The safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients has evolved significantly over recent decades, driven by ethical and regulatory restrictions on the use of animal models and by the strengthening of evidence-based scientific approaches1; 2. In this context, in vitro methods using human cells have emerged as relevant tools for preclinical safety screening, enabling the analysis of cytotoxicity, cell viability, and biological responses in a reproducible and controlled manner2. The HaCaT cell line, composed of immortalized human keratinocytes, is widely employed in dermatological studies and cosmetic safety assessment due to its phenotypic and functional similarities to the human epidermis3. This model has been applied in the investigation of both synthetic and natural cosmetic ingredients, contributing to the understanding of their biological effects. Active ingredients such as niacinamide and the glycolic extract of Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) are widely incorporated into cosmetic formulations due to their potential skin benefits. However, the systematic evaluation of the cellular safety of these ingredients in biologically relevant models remains essential, reinforcing the importance of studies using human keratinocytes as supportive tools for cosmetic development4; 5. OBJECTIVES: The present study aims to evaluate the cellular safety of different concentrations of niacinamide and rosemary glycolic extract, with the goal of determining a non-cytotoxic concentration range in human keratinocytes (HaCaT). MATERIALS AND METHODS: HaCaT cells were cultured under standardized conditions and exposed to different concentrations of niacinamide and rosemary glycolic extract. The safety of the active ingredients was assessed through cell viability assays, including MTT and Trypan Blue, allowing the analysis of cytotoxicity and potential proliferative effects. Positive and negative controls were used to validate the experimental model, and data were interpreted based on parameters described in the scientific literature. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: As this is an ongoing methodological study, the in vitro assays conducted aim to characterize the cellular response of human keratinocytes following exposure to different concentrations of niacinamide and rosemary glycolic extract, using the HaCaT model as a cosmetic safety screening tool. This approach will enable the identification of concentration ranges compatible with cell viability, contributing to the preclinical safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients. The discussion will be conducted in light of previously published studies involving these actives in similar cellular models, highlighting the advantages, limitations, and applicability of the model employed. CONCLUSIONS: The proposed methodological approach reinforces the use of human cell-based models as ethical, reproducible, and relevant tools for the preclinical evaluation of cosmetic ingredient safety, contributing to the development of safer products grounded in scientific evidence.

PREPARATION OF A NANOEMULSION OBTAINED BY D-PHASE METHOD CONTAINING PITANGA OIL FOR ANTI-AGING ACTION

Authors

Julia Arco e Flexa Ferreira Costa1, Sofia Torres Mainardi Artese1, Margarete Akemi Kishi1, Bruno Silva Batista1, Letícia Caramori Cefali1*

Affiliations

1 Curso de Farmácia, Centro de Ciências Biológicas e da Saúde, Universidade Presbiteriana Mackenzie, São Paulo, Brasil.

Abstract

Among the nanotechnology applications, nanoemulsions are characterized by dispersions of two immiscible liquids stabilized by an appropriate surfactant. Low-energy methods, such as the D-phase emulsification (DPE) technique, have been studied and considered an innovative approach that has gained significant attention in nanoemulsions, especially for cosmetic applications. Among these applications, it is possible to use oils rich in bioactive compounds for skin action, with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities, for example. The essential oil obtained from the pitanga leaves is produced by the native Brazilian species named Eugenia uniflora L., and is known to be rich in terpenoids, which makes its use an option for the preparation of nanoemulsions for topical use. OBJECTIVES: The aim of this study was to develop a nanoemulsion using the low-energy technique with pitanga oil for use in combating premature skin aging. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The oil obtained from pitanga leaves was obtained by hydrodistillation for 8 hours, followed by centrifugation to separate the essential oil and hydrolate. Both products were evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity using the DPPH radical scavenging method and, after verifying their activity, pitanga oil was used to produce a nanoemulsion. For this purpose, 3 formulations were prepared containing different concentrations of oil (6.0, 7.0 and 8.0 g), polysorbate 80 (0.5 and 1.0 g), glycerin (2.0 g), initial water and 0.5 ml of residual water. The process was carried out under magnetic stirring at 250 rpm and 50°C. The particle size and polydispersity index were evaluated, as well as the physicochemical stability of formulation. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The translucent oil obtained presented a characteristic odor, due to sesquiterpenes presence, and low yield, as expected and described in literature. The oil showed in vitro antioxidant activity and an IC50 of 1.34 μg/ml, confirming the bioactive components presence extracted from pitanga leaves. The formulation containing 7.0 g of pitanga oil presented a size of 98.0 nm and a polydispersity index of 0.24, in addition to physicochemical stability, especially at room temperature, thus protecting the bioactive compounds presence with antioxidant activity contained in oil. CONCLUSIONS: It was possible to obtain oil from pitanga leaves using the hydrodistillation method, despite the low yield, containing bioactive compounds, as confirmed by the in vitro activity performed. The nanoemulsion method using the d-phase method produced a stable formulation on a nanometric scale, making the formula an option for use as a skin care product, obtained from plant-based material, and by a low-energy method.

COSMETIC SAFETY EVALUATION OF A FACIAL CLEANSING FORMULATION CONTAINING HYALURONIC ACID AND VITAMIN C

Authors

Rebeca Ribeiro Leitea*, Sophia Carvalho Souzaa, Jéssica Kethelyn Da Silva Santosa, Ludmila Rosario Camposc, Herllon Karllos Athaydes Kerrc, Marcio Fronzab, Márcio Gabriel Venturini Dipalmad, Thiago Engel Dominguesd, Samyra Prata Maquarted, Marcella Leite Portoa,c

Affiliations

aInstituto Federal do Espírito Santo,Vila Velha, ES, Brasil.

bPrograma de Pós-Graduação em Ciências Farmacêuticas - Universidade de Vila Velha, Vila Velha, ES, Brasil.

cPrograma de Pós-Graduação em Bioquímica - Universidade Federal do Espírito Santo, Vitória, ES, Brasil.

dGriffus Cosméticos - Cariacica, ES, Brasil.

Abstract

Facial cleansing products are essential for maintaining cutaneous homeostasis, as they interact directly with the epidermal barrier. The action of surfactants, although fundamental for the removal of impurities, may compromise skin barrier integrity when not properly formulated¹˒⁵. In this context, a facial cleansing foam formulation incorporating hyaluronic acid (HA) and vitamin C was developed, aiming to balance cleansing efficacy with preservation of barrier function. HA is recognized for its high hygroscopic capacity and its ability to form a protective film, contributing to the reduction of skin dehydration². Vitamin C, in turn, presents relevant biological properties, including stimulation of collagen synthesis and contribution to the maintenance of skin quality³˒⁴. This research was developed in partnership with an industrial company, in a pre-launch context, aiming at scientific validation of the product and strengthening the interaction between the educational institution and the productive sector. Objectives: The present study aimed to evaluate the safety and efficacy of the active ingredients present in the facial cleansing foam formulation through in vitro assays using human keratinocyte cells. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Cosmetic safety was evaluated in HaCaT keratinocytes by analyzing cellular metabolic activity using the MTT assay (3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide). Cells were exposed to serial dilutions of the facial cleansing formulation containing the active ingredients, and results were compared to an active-free control base. Statistical analysis was performed using one-way ANOVA in GraphPad Prism 8 software, considering p < 0.05 as the level of statistical significance. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The concentrations of the facial cleansing formulation demonstrated an adequate safety profile for cosmetic use, with increased cellular metabolic activity and maintenance of cell viability. Therefore, it is believed that the active ingredients present in the formulation are capable of preserving skin barrier integrity, minimizing potential deleterious effects associated with surfactant action. CONCLUSION: Preliminary assays demonstrated the safety of the facial cleansing formulation containing hyaluronic acid and vitamin C, evidencing its biological compatibility with human keratinocytes and its potential to preserve the skin barrier. However, complementary studies are necessary to elucidate the mechanisms of action involved, in order to ensure cleansing efficacy and guarantee the maintenance of epidermal integrity. Additionally, this study reinforces the importance of partnerships between educational institutions and the cosmetic industry for the development of safer and scientifically grounded products.

SOPHOROLIPIDS AS A BIOTECHNOLOGICAL INGREDIENT: EVALUATION OF THE TOXICOLOGICAL PROFILE IN HUMAN KERATINOCYTE STRAIN (HACAT).

Authors

Luiz Henrique Santana Martins1, Niumaique Gonçalves da Silva1, Luan Vitor Alves de Lima1, Weslley Aparecido Vicente Luiz1, Briani Gisele Bigotto1; Mário Sérgio Mantovani1, Maria Antonia Pedrine Colabone Celligoi1

Affiliations

1 Universidade Estadual de Londrina (UEL), Londrina, Brasil.

Abstract

With the growing demand for innovative, sustainable, and safe cosmetic ingredients, biosurfactants are emerging as promising alternatives to synthetic surfactants of petrochemical origin. In this scenario, biosurfactants emerge as promising candidates. Among them are the sophorolipids, glycolipids produced by the yeast Starmerella bombicola, which stand out for their biodegradability, low toxicity, and bioactive properties, including antimicrobial and emulsifying activity. However, its safe application in dermocosmetics requires a rigorous prior toxicological evaluation to establish safe ranges of use. OBJECTIVES: This study aimed to evaluate the toxicological profile of sophorolipids produced by the yeast Starmerella bombicola by analyzing cytotoxicity and morphological alterations in human keratinocyte strains (HaCaT), providing scientific support for the development of innovative cosmetic formulations. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Cytotoxic concentrations were obtained from the resazurin assay (48-well plates; 10⁵ cells/well) and exposed to a gradient of sophorolipid concentrations (40–120 μg/mL; T = 24h). For morphology analysis, the cells were treated with the concentrations of CC50 and CC25 of sophorolipids (T=24h). After treatment, they were incubated with (i) Hoechst + Rodamina 123 to assess nuclear integrity and mitochondrial activity; (ii) Hoechst + Propidium Iodide for detection of nuclear integrity and plasma membrane compromise. The acquisition of the images was performed under an EVOS inverted microscope, both in the bright field and in the fluorescence channels. The data obtained were submitted to the Shapiro-Wilk test to verify normality. Parametric data were submitted to Analysis of Variance (one-way ANOVA) and Dunnett's post-test in GraphPad Prism® 9.0 software. The results are expressed as mean ± standard deviation, with a significance level (p<0.05). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: Sophorolipids showed a dose-dependent cytotoxicity profile (R = 0.922) with CC₅₀, CC₂₅, and CC₁₂,₅ of 90.25 μg/mL, 81.82 μg/mL, and 75.86 μg/mL, respectively. This toxicity threshold, higher than the effective concentrations reported for antimicrobial or functional activities, indicates a promising safety margin for topical applications. Integrated fluorescence microscopy analysis at concentrations of CC₂₅ and CC₅₀ elucidated the mechanisms underlying the loss of viability. Positive labeling with propidium iodide confirms damage to plasma membrane integrity, an effect anchored in the amphipathic nature of the biosurfactant. At the same time, the alteration in the mitochondrial labeling pattern with Rhodamine 123, from a diffuse distribution to perinuclear foci, evidences mitochondrial dysfunction and cellular stress, suggesting the activation of initial pro-apoptotic pathways. In addition, the observation of fine cellular projections, similar to tunnel nanotubules, showed mitochondrial marking, indicating potential adaptive intercellular communication response under stress. Complementary morphological changes, such as cell rounding, volume reduction, and vacuole formation, are consistent with this injury. CONCLUSION: The results demonstrate that sophorolipids present dose-dependent cytotoxicity in HaCaT, with a toxicity threshold higher than the functionally effective concentrations described in the literature, indicating a relevant safety margin for topical use. Morphological and fluorescence analyses revealed plasma membrane impairment and mitochondrial dysfunction at higher concentrations, in addition to cellular adaptive responses to stress. Together, the findings reinforce the potential of sophorolipids as promising biotechnological ingredients for dermocosmetic applications, provided that safe concentration limits are respected.

BIOTECHNOLOGICAL POTENTIAL OF LEVAN FROM Bacillus subtilis NATTO ASSOCIATED WITH COPAIBA AND LEMONGRASS OILS FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS

Authors

Sabrina Aparecida Balsarini Marqueti1, Yara dos Santos Vieira Dias1, Briani Gisele Bigotto1, Tainã de Oliveira Ferreira1, Weslley Aparecido Vicente Luiz1, Luiz Henrique Santana

Affiliations

1 Departamento de Bioquímica e Biotecnologia

2 Departamento de Ciências Farmacêuticas Universidade Estadual de Londrina, Londrina, Brasil

Abstract

The search for cosmetic formulations based on renewable and biodegradable raw materials has driven the investigation of alternatives to conventional synthetic polymers. Skin barrier homeostasis requires actives that promote hydration and antimicrobial protection, preserving its physiological integrity. Levan, an exopolysaccharide of microbial origin, stands out for its biocompatibility and film-forming capacity. In parallel, essential oils from species such as Copaifera officinalis (copaiba) and Cymbopogon flexuosus (lemongrass) offer relevant bioactive compounds for topical therapeutic applications. The association of these actives represents a promising strategy for multifunctional dermocosmetics. OBJECTIVES: The objective was to produce levan via fermentation by B. subtilis natto and apply it in serum-type cosmeceutical formulations, associated with lemongrass and copaiba essential oils. Specifically, the aim was to characterize the biopolymer by infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), evaluate the in vitro antioxidant potential of the actives and formulations, as well as analyze the physicochemical stability (pH, density, centrifugation) and moisture retention of the developed formulations. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Levan was produced from the B. subtilis natto strain CCT7712 in two stages: obtaining levansucrase (sucrose 420.7 g/L, 37ºC, 24h) followed by polymer synthesis (enzymatic extract + sucrose 350 g/L, pH 6.0, 35ºC, 36h). The levan was precipitated in absolute ethanol, dialyzed, lyophilized, and chemically characterized by FT-IR. Six facial serum formulations (Aristoflex gel base) were developed containing levan (1%) and essential oils (0.5%), isolated and associated. Preliminary stability was monitored during a thermal stress cycle (15 days; 5/40ºC), analyzing pH, density, organoleptic properties, and centrifugation. Furthermore, moisture retention capacity (gravimetry, RH 58%) and antioxidant activity (DPPH and ABTS) were analyzed. Data were submitted to one-way ANOVA and Student’s t-test (p<0.05). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: Levan production was 42.98 ± 0.53 g/L in 36h, with a volumetric productivity of 1.19 g/L.h, surpassing yields of other producing microorganisms cited in the literature (Zymomonas and Leuconostoc). FT-IR confirmed the biopolymer identity, exhibiting characteristic O-H stretching bands (3400 cm⁻¹) and furanosidic ring vibrations (900-950 cm⁻¹) similar to the commercial standard. The formulations presented physical stability to centrifugation (no phase separation). After the thermal stress cycle, formulations containing essential oils underwent slight color alteration and significant pH reduction (p<0.05), attributed to the oxidation of terpenes (citral/β-caryophyllene), although density remained constant. In moisture retention (48h), the levan and lemongrass association presented superior performance (p<0.05) compared to the isolated components and the base, suggesting a synergistic effect in forming a barrier against evaporation. In antioxidant assays (DPPH and ABTS), it was observed that while the isolated copaiba oil lost activity in the gel base, its association with levan preserved the antioxidant efficacy (superior statistical group). This indicates that the levan polymeric matrix acted as a stabilizing agent, protecting the bioactive compounds from oxidative degradation. CONCLUSIONS: The feasibility of levan production by B. subtilis natto and its application in dermocosmetics was demonstrated. The formulation presented physical stability and functional synergism; the biopolymer enhanced water retention and protected the antioxidant activity of the oils. The product validates the use of biotechnology for high-performance cosmeceuticals.

SYNERGISTIC EFFECT OF LOW-DOSE INORGANIC UV FILTER TITANIUM DIOXIDE ON THE SPF OF O/W EMULSIONS CONTAINING ORGANIC UV FILTERS

Authors

Soraya Moura1; Natalia Castro1; Lillia Heider2; Gabriele Witte2

Affiliations

1Innovation and Application, Susonity (Surface Solutions Brasil LTDA), São Paulo, Brazil.

2Innovation and Application, Susonity Commercial GmbH, Frankfurt, German

Abstract

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is one of the main factors responsible for DNA mutations, oxidative stress, photoaging, and skin cancer, making the continuous use of sunscreens essential (1). Growing concerns regarding the safety and environmental impact of certain organic UV filters have driven increased interest in mineral filters, particularly titanium dioxide (TiO₂), which is recognized for its photostability, low skin penetration, and high safety profile (2–3). In O/W emulsions, the combination of water soluble and oil soluble organic UV filters with mineral particles can enhance overall sunscreen performance, as TiO₂ contributes to UV scattering and reflection, reducing spectral gaps and improving the uniformity and continuity of UV absorption, ultimately increasing SPF and photostability (4–6). OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the synergistic effect of incorporating particulate TiO₂ (DTAS) into an O/W emulsion containing water soluble and oil soluble organic UV filters, quantifying its impact on in-vitro SPF and comparing the results with in-silico estimations. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The tested formulation was an O/W emulsion containing an organic UV filter system composed of both water soluble and oil soluble filters. Particulate TiO₂ (DTAS) was incorporated at concentrations of 0%, 0.5%, and 1.0% w/w. Photoprotective efficacy was assessed using: (1) in-vitro SPF determined by the FM method (Fused Method, internal SOP 00087011), and (2) SPF predicted via in-silico digital modeling. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The progressive incorporation of TiO₂ significantly improved photoprotective performance. The in-vitro SPF increased from 44.7 (0%) to 54.6 (0.5%) and 58.0 (1%). In contrast, the in-silico SPF exhibited only a modest rise: 32.0 → 33.1 → 34.2. The addition of just 0.5% DTAS raised the formulation theoretically from SPF 30 to SPF 50, demonstrating a pronounced synergy between the organic and mineral filters. Although 1.0% DTAS brought the formulation closer to the SPF 60 category, this concentration was insufficient to achieve the target; estimations suggest that approximately 2% would be required. The discrepancy between in-vitro and in-silico results indicates that physical mechanisms not fully captured by modeling — such as reflection, diffusion, and the increased optical path length — play a key role in TiO₂ performance (4–6). Furthermore, interactions between mineral particles and organic filters reduce the photodegradation of the latter, enhancing the overall photostability of the formulation. Additionally, the reduced concentration of organic filters enabled by the synergistic effect tends to improve the sensorial profile and skin tolerance — attributes strongly associated with user adherence to daily sunscreen application (3,5). CONCLUSION: The combination of particulate TiO₂ (DTAS) with water soluble and oil soluble organic filters in O/W emulsions demonstrated a marked synergistic effect, substantially increasing SPF even at low mineral concentrations. The addition of 0.5% DTAS was sufficient to elevate the formulation to SPF 50, while 1.0% brought the system close to SPF 60. These findings reinforce the potential of integrating mineral and organic UV filters as a safe, effective, and sustainable strategy for developing high performance sunscreens.

ASSESSMENT OF NATURAL RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS IN GLYCOLIC ACID EMULSIONS AND THE EFFECT OF THEIR ASSOCIATION WITH SYNTHETIC RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS ON SENSORY AND TEXTURE MODULATION

Authors

Claudio Ribeiro1*, Guilherme Giorginiani Valeriano1

Affiliations

1The Lubrizol Corporation – Latam departamento de formulação; São Paulo, Brasil.

Abstract

Glycolic acid (GA) is widely employed in cosmetic formulations for exfoliation, acne, melasma, skin aging, and moisturizer. Its efficacy is dependent on both concentration and pH, and its use is authorized up to 10% at pH < 4.5. Within this pH range, many synthetic rheology modifiers (RMs) exhibit impaired performance, thereby promoting the use of natural polymers, which demonstrate greater stability in acidic and electrolyterich media, although they are generally less efficient in viscosity buildup and display distinct sensorial attributes. This study assessed the viscosity and stability performance of the natural RMs Sphingomonas Ferment Extract (SFE) and Undecylenoyl Xanthan Gum (UXG), used alone or in combination with synthetic RMs in emulsions containing 10% glycolic acid (pH 3.8–4.5). Texture parameters were also evaluated using a Texture Analyzer to investigate their potential impact on sensorial perception. Emulsions were prepared with SFE or UXG combined with carbomer, acrylates/steareth20 methacrylate copolymer, or acrylates/C1030 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (0.5% natural RM + 0.3% synthetic). Except for the acrylates/steareth20 methacrylate copolymer combined with UXG, which yielded an unstable emulsion, all formulations remained stable during a 4week screening period at 25 °C and 50 °C. The formulation containing SFE as the sole RM exhibited superior viscosity (8640–9600 cPs) compared with the UXGbased emulsion (4110–7860 cPs). When SFE was combined with synthetic modifiers, viscosity values decreased; however, these combinations displayed greater consistency across measurements than the corresponding UXG systems. In the presence of synthetic RMs, the following viscosity ranges were observed: acrylates/C1030 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer — 7700–8460 cPs (SFE) versus 4080–8370 cPs (UXG); carbomer — 5100–6390 cPs (SFE) versus 2480–5880 cPs (UXG); acrylates/steareth20 methacrylate copolymer — 5290–7970 cPs with SFE. Collectively, the results indicate that combining natural RMs with synthetic rheology modifiers does not lead to viscosity enhancement; however, it results in distinct textural profiles. After the stability assessment, formulations stored at room temperature were analyzed using the TA.XTplusC Texture Analyzer equipped with the Spreadability Rig. A formulation containing 0.8% SFC served as the reference. These analyses provided insights into the mechanical properties of the different RM combinations and their implications for sensorial performance. Although viscosity measurements suggested values closer to the reference emulsion for the SFE + acrylates/C1030 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer combination, texture analysis indicated a slightly firmer and more structured emulsion with lower elasticity compared with the SFC reference, despite improved spreadability for the uncombined SFE emulsion. The UXG + acrylates/C1030 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer combination produced a more consistent, firmer, and more adhesive emulsion, suggesting stronger interactions between the apolar regions of the two RMs. However, it exhibited lower elasticity than the reference, indicating a richer sensorial profile. Conversely, formulations containing SFE combined with carbomer or acrylates/steareth20 methacrylate copolymer demonstrated improved spreadability, elasticity, and reduced tackiness, resulting in lighter emulsions. Among all combinations, those containing carbomer showed the lowest elasticity values. The addition of UXG consistently increased adhesiveness. In conclusion, the natural RMs evaluated demonstrated compatibility with acidic systems and high electrolyte loads, contributing to formulation stability and viscosity. Conversely, their association with synthetic RMs primarily influenced texture and sensorial characteristics rather than viscosity, providing valuable opportunities for targeted sensorial modulation in cosmetic emulsions.

UNVEILING THE LABELING OF CHILDREN'S COSMETIC SOAPS USING ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE

Authors

Flavia Scigliano Dabbur1*, Andressa Brás de Farias1; Bárbara Karine Santos de Almeida1

Affiliations

¹ Centro Universitário Cesmac, Maceió – Alagoas, Brasil

Abstract

Cosmetics for children, especially those under 3 years of age, require more rigorous ingredient testing, as children's skin is more sensitive and permeable, which increases the risk of irritation, sensitization, and absorption of potentially harmful substances. Therefore, formulations should prioritize safe ingredients, reduce unnecessary ones, and restrict more aggressive fragrances, preservatives, and surfactants. With the increasing complexity and volume of data and information available on product labels, Artificial Intelligence (AI) has become a strategic tool. AI automates data classification, cleaning, and organization processes, enabling faster and more accurate analysis of information related to cosmetic formulation and labeling. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the degree of compliance of baby soap labels between two specific artificial intelligence (AI) tools and an international database. MATERIAL AND METHOD: This is a quantitative, qualitative, and comparative study, with the collection and analysis of eight baby soap labels found in physical stores. The label data was read using the INCI Beauty and OnSkin apps, which are based on artificial intelligence directed at this topic. Ingredients classified as high, moderate, and low risk by the applications were compiled and analyzed, while those described as risk-free by both applications were excluded from the analysis. Ingredient data were compiled in Microsoft Excel spreadsheets for later analysis. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: Eight samples of baby soaps were evaluated, containing a total of 51 ingredients classified as low, moderate, and high risk. Of these, 1 (1.96%) ingredient was classified as high risk, 17 (33.33%) as moderate risk, and 33 (64.70%) as low risk. Among the classes of ingredients analyzed, 9 (17.65%) were preservatives, 3 (5.89%) were colorants, and 13 (25.49%) were aromatic compounds (to compose the fragrance). It is reported that the vast majority of preservatives, fragrances, and colorants are allergenic and can sensitize the skin; therefore, the classifications are consistent. It was also observed that 3 samples (37.5%) contained 20 or more ingredients (low, moderate, and high risk), and the other 5 samples (62.5%) contained up to 9 ingredients with low and moderate risk. Minimalism in cosmetic formulations to reduce the quantity of ingredients is already a trend. The 3 samples with the highest quantity of ingredients were the worst in terms of scores applied by the apps. When comparing the ingredient analyses of the two apps, only 16 (31.37%) ingredients were classified in the same category. The apps also provide scores to products according to the ingredients; when placed on the same scale, the values differ, but they are consistent, that is, low scores in one app remain low in the other app. The results indicate that AI tools applied to the analysis of cosmetic ingredients are promising resources for evaluating the compliance of baby soap labeling. A predominance of ingredients classified as low-risk was observed, but with a significant presence of moderate-risk components, especially preservatives, fragrances, and colorants, categories associated with the potential for skin sensitization. Formulations with a greater number of ingredients presented worse scores in the applications, reinforcing the trend of minimalism in cosmetics. However, the low agreement between the classifications of the two applications, limited to 31.37% of the ingredients, highlights the lack of standardization among AI-based tools. CONCLUSION: Thus, it is concluded that AI is useful as an auxiliary screening and decision support tool, but it still requires methodological harmonization and scientific validation, and should be used in a complementary way to technical evaluations, especially for products intended for children.

DEVELOPMENT OF A LIP EMULSION CONTAINING RICE BRAN OIL AND EVALUATION OF APPARENT VISCOSITY

Authors

Amanda Gotardo Gonçalves*¹, Karina Bispo dos Santos¹, Rafaella Junqueira Merli¹, Gislaine Ricci Leonardi¹

Affiliations

¹Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Campinas, Brasil

Abstract

Apparent viscosity is a parameter used to characterize non-Newtonian materials, whose behavior varies according to the applied shear rate¹, and is an important property to be considered in the production, quality and stability of fluids, since it allows the evaluation of the effects caused by time and storage conditions2. In cosmetic emulsions, viscosity also influences the sensory characteristics of the formulation3. Moreover, the increasing demand for formulations containing ingredients that reduce impacts on human health and the environment has led to the growing use of vegetable oils in cosmetics. One such oil is rice bran oil, a source of antioxidants with emollient properties that contribute to skin hydration, in addition to exhibiting potential protective effects against UV and IR radiation4. These characteristics justify its application in cosmetic formulations, especially lip emulsions, since lip skin presents reduced barrier protection and a transepidermal water loss approximately three times higher than that observed in cheek skin5. Therefore, this study aimed to evaluate the stability of a lip emulsion containing rice bran oil in the oil phase under different storage conditions, with particular emphasis on its influence on apparent viscosity. OBJECTIVES: To develop a lip emulsion containing rice bran oil and to evaluate its organoleptic characteristics, pH and apparent viscosity under different storage conditions over a 90-day period. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The formulations were stored at room temperature (25ºC ± 5°C) protected from light, at room temperature (25ºC ± 5°C) under natural light exposure, at elevated temperature in an oven (40ºC ± 2°C) and at low temperature in a refrigerator (5ºC ± 2°C), according to the Guide for Stability Testing of Cosmetic Products (Guia de Estabilidade de Produtos Cosméticos), issued by the Brazilian Health Regulatory Agency (ANVISA)6. Evaluations were performed in duplicate at the initial time point and after 30, 60 and 90 days of storage. Viscosity measurements were conducted using an IKA ROTAVISC me-vi viscometer with a VOL-SP-9.4 spindle at 23ºC ± 2°C and rotational speeds of 10, 30 and 50 rpm. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The emulsion exhibited pseudoplastic behavior, evidenced by a decrease in apparent viscosity with increasing shear rate. Throughout the study, it was observed that the formulations stored at room temperature protected from light maintained their initial viscosity, whereas those stored under refrigeration showed an increase in viscosity. Conversely, a reduction in viscosity was observed in formulations exposed to natural light, with an even more pronounced decrease in those stored in an oven. These changes became more evident at T90, indicating a direct influence of storage conditions over time. Organoleptic and pH analyses showed trends similar to those observed for viscosity, with lower variability in refrigerated formulations, followed by those stored at room temperature, under natural light exposure and, finally, those stored in the oven, which exhibited the greatest variation. CONCLUSIONS: Storage conditions directly influenced the stability of the emulsion. Formulations stored under refrigeration and at room temperature protected from light preserved apparent viscosity, pH and organoleptic characteristics close to their original state. In contrast, exposure to light and elevated temperature resulted in greater alterations over time, highlighting the importance of appropriate storage conditions to maintain the physicochemical and sensory stability of the developed lip emulsion.

BIOLOGICAL POTENTIAL OF VITAMIN B12 IN L929 FIBROBLASTS: IN VITRO EVALUATION OF CELL VIABILITY AND PROLIFERATION

Authors

Júlia Vieira Moreira1*, Sophia Carvalho Souza1, Giovana Chieza Madeira1, Herllon Karlos Athaydes Kerr1,2, Vitor Cezar Broetto Pegoretti1, Rafael Antônio Souza de Lima1, Wanderson Romão1,

Marcella Leite Porto1,2

Affiliations

1Instituto Federal do Espírito Santo, Vila Velha, Brasil;

2Programa de Pós-Graduação em Bioquímica, Universidade Federal do Espírito Santo (UFES), Vitória, Espírito Santo, Brasil

Abstract

Vitamin B12 (cobalamin) is a bioactive compound widely used in topical formulations, although its functional effects on cutaneous cellular models are still poorly explored¹˒². In this context, the experimental characterization of its biological safety and potential functional effects becomes essential for the scientific validation of its cosmetic application³. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate cell viability and the potential proliferative effect of murine L929 fibroblasts treated with vitamin B12 at different concentrations, comparing a retroprocessed sample with an analytical reference standard. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Murine L929 fibroblasts were cultured under standard conditions and treated for 24 h with cyanocobalamin at concentrations of 0.07%, 0.1%, and 0.2%, using a sample obtained from the laboratory preparation of tablets containing cyanocobalamin, within the context of an institutional project focused on the scientific reuse of inputs, in addition to an analytical reference standard, controls, and vehicle. Cell viability was assessed using two independent methods, the MTT assay and the Trypan Blue Exclusion assay, both performed in triplicate (n = 3)⁴. The proliferative potential was investigated using the Scratch Assay, with monitoring of the injured area at 0 h and 24 h by image analysis. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The results demonstrate that vitamin B12 did not reduce metabolic viability nor compromise the cellular integrity of L929 fibroblasts at any of the evaluated concentrations, indicating a safety profile for cosmetic applications¹˒²˒⁵. In the wound closure assay, maintenance of cellular proliferative capacity was observed in the groups treated with vitamin B12. However, no statistically significant differences were observed, which may be attributed, among other factors, to the limited sample size, indicating the need for sample expansion in future studies to better elucidate this effect³. Similar behavior was also observed between the retroprocessed sample and the analytical reference standard, indicating functional equivalence between the evaluated sources of cyanocobalamin. CONCLUSION: Overall, the data demonstrate that vitamin B12 proved to be safe in a cutaneous cellular model, without impairing the viability of L929 fibroblasts. The possible mechanisms associated with the observed effects on cell proliferation still need to be elucidated, justifying the continuation of future investigations.

CLINICAL AND BIOLOGICAL EVALUATION OF THE NEUROMODULATORY ACTION OF A COSMETIC CREAM AND SERUM IN THE REDUCTION OF DYNAMIC WRINKLES

Authors

Ana Laura Rodrigues Lemos¹ *; Ana Lúcia Tabarini Alves Pinheiro2; Bibiana Matte3; Clélia Rodrigues dos Reis Carneiro4; Gabriela Martins Piva1; 3 Helouise Medeiros; Juliana

Affiliations

¹ Bioscientific, Taboão da Serra, Brasil; ² Grupo Kosmoscience, Valinhos, Brasil;3 Núcleo Vitro, Porto Alegre, Brasil; 4 Bioage, São Paulo, Brasil;

Abstract

Recent advances in cosmetic biotechnology have expanded the understanding of facial aging, highlighting the role of neuromuscular activity in the formation and intensification of dynamic wrinkles. These wrinkles result from repetitive contraction of facial mimic muscles, leading to continuous folding of the skin and a progressive loss of elastic recovery capacity. Therefore, neuromuscular modulation emerges as an innovative strategy to prevent and reduce these signs. Although botulinum toxin is effective, its invasive application and associated risks have driven the development of safe topical alternatives. Neurocosmetics, which act on neuromuscular and neurosensory pathways, offer less invasive and scientifically grounded solutions. OBJECTIVE: This study evaluated the clinical and biological efficacy of cream and a serum containing biotechnological actives with pre- and postsynaptic action, applied individually or in combination. Immediate and progressive reduction of dynamic wrinkles and expression lines was investigated in comparison with botulinum toxin, as well as effects on neuromuscular modulation mechanisms (acetylcholine and clathrin expression). The products act in a multitarget manner, modulating acetylcholine, the SNARE complex, calcium influx, and nicotinic receptors, in addition to prolonging the neuromodulatory effect through vesicular recycling and the formation of new neuromuscular junctions. Structural peptides and hyaluronic acid further promote hydration and improvement of the dermal matrix. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Clinical studies were conducted with 27 volunteers for the cream, 26 for the serum, and 24 for combined use, with evaluations at T0, T7, T14, T21, and T28. Standardized image analysis, self-assessment questionnaires, and evaluations were performed by a professional esthetician, measuring the intensity of dynamic wrinkles, expression lines, facial relaxation, and perception of immediate and progressive effects. In vitro assays assessed gene expression of acetylcholine and clathrins by RT-qPCR, as well as axonal length in neuronal cells. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The cream promoted facial relaxation in 84% of volunteers on the first day, reaching 100% after 28 days. Immediate-effect evaluation, inspired by outcomes observed with botulinum toxin, demonstrated a reduction in contraction wrinkle intensity in 72% of volunteers, increasing to 80% after 15 minutes and reaching 95.8% after 28 days. In vitro studies showed that the cream reduced axonal length in neuronal cells by 40.3% and decreased clathrin gene expression by 43.3%, indicating interference with vesicular recycling processes and supporting a prolonged-effect mechanism. The serum showed an immediate 64% reduction in contraction wrinkles and 87.5% after 28 days of use. There was also an immediate 60% reduction in dynamic and static wrinkles. Fifteen minutes after application, reduction in wrinkle and expression line intensity reached 80%. At the end of 28 days, the greatest impact was observed in facial expression relaxation, reaching 95.8%. In vitro assays demonstrated a 45.99% reduction in axonal length, a 32.9% decrease in clathrin expression, and reduced expression of acetylcholine receptors, reinforcing the serum’s potential to modulate muscle contraction and prolong neuromodulatory effects. Image analysis of the combined use of both products revealed a superior effect in reducing wrinkle and expression line intensity, particularly in the glabellar region. CONCLUSION: The results confirm that both products act as multitarget neuromuscular modulators, safely mimicking the effects of botulinum toxin with immediate and progressive benefits. Interference with vesicular recycling and the formation of new neuromuscular junctions suggests prolonged effects, consolidating neurocosmetics as allies in aging prevention and in the maintenance of professional aesthetic results.

REUSE OF GRAPE POMACE IN PHOTOPROTECTION: PHYTOCHEMICAL PROFILE AND EX VIVO ANTILIPOPEROXIDATIVE EVALUATION

Authors

Samara Valeria Delgado Andrade¹,*, Aline Mello Carvalho¹, Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto¹, Fabiana Vieira Lima Solino Pessoa², Maria Valéria Robles Velasco1, Daniel Pecoraro Demarque¹, André Rolim Baby¹

Affiliations

¹Departamento de Farmácia, Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas, USP, São Paulo, SP, Brasil; ²Departamento de Ciências da Saúde, UFES, São Mateus, ES, Brasil

Abstract

This study characterized the phytochemical profile of a Brazilian Vitis vinifera (Cabernet Sauvignon) grape pomace extract and evaluated its antioxidant and antilipoperoxidative efficacy. Phytochemical analysis via HPLC-MS/MS identified flavonoids (proanthocyanidins) and oxygenated terpenes. In vitro, the extract’s antioxidant capacity (CUPRAC) was 9.7 times higher than Trolox. Ex vivo lipid peroxidation was assessed using the innovative HPLC-TBARS-EVSC protocol on human stratum corneum. Results showed that while the extract alone (CBU) and the base vehicle (CB) effectively mitigated oxidative damage (ratios < 1.0; p > 0.05), the combination of extract and UV filters (CBUF) failed to reduce peroxidation, and isolated filters (CBF) showed limited efficacy. These findings demonstrate the high antioxidant potential of grape pomace polyphenols and highlight the need for formulation optimization to prevent interference between natural extracts and synthetic UV filters, supporting the sustainable reuse of winery by-products in dermocosmetics.
 

TECHNOLOGICAL TRENDS IN NANOSTRUCTURED SYSTEMS FOR THE DELIVERY OF ESSENTIAL OILS IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS

Authors

Danielly Santos de Oliveira1, Eloizy Maria da Silva1, Ana Raquel Souza dos Santos, Dayanne Tomaz Casimiro da Silva1,2

Affiliations

¹Departamento de Farmácia, Universidade Estadual da Paraíba, Campina Grande, Brasil;

Abstract

Essential oils (EOs) are aromatic compounds with potential cosmetic applications due to their antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. However, their high volatility, susceptibility to oxidation, and chemical instability limit their direct incorporation into formulations. Therefore, the use of delivery systems capable of improving the stability of EOs and enabling their application in cosmetic products is necessary. OBJECTIVE: To perform a bibliometric analysis of the main technologies used as strategies for the delivery of essential oils in cosmetic products. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The Web of Science (WoSCC) platform was used as a search tool with the following keywords “drug delivery system” or “drug delivery” or “controlled release” or “delivery system” or ‘ drug eluting” or “drug carrier” or “carrier” or “modified release” or “retard release” or “slow release” or “encapsulation” and “essential oil” or “essential oils” or “volatile oil” or “volatile oils” or “aromatic oil” or “aromatic oils” or “plant essential oil” or “natural essential oil” or “monoterpenes” or “volatile organic compounds” or “sesquiterpenes” or “volatile secondary metabolites” or “bioactive volatile compounds” and “cosmetic” or “cosmetics” or “cosmetic product” or “cosmetic products” or “cosmetic formulation” or “cosmetic formulations” or “personal care product” or “personal care products” or “beauty product” or “beauty products” or “toiletry” or “toiletries” or “cosmeceutical” or “dermocosmetic” or “dermocosmetics” or “topical cosmetic” or “topical cosmetics” or “hair care product” or “oral care product” or “skin care formulation” or “anti-aging cosmetic” or “photoprotective cosmetic” or “makeup product”. Review articles and studies that encapsulated oils other than essential oils were adopted as exclusion criteria. The files were analyzed using RStudio software (version 4.5.1) with the R programming language and the Bibliometrix package (version 4.0.1). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The combined search resulted in 478 articles, of which 67 were analyzed after applying the exclusion criteria. There was a 360% increase in annual scientific publications between 2020 and 2026. The journal Molecules presented the highest number of publications (6), China stood out as the country with the highest scientific output (71), and the author Sharma AD was the most productive in this field (4). A coupling network analysis revealed a two-dimensional map with five clusters, indicating the research topics with the greatest impact and demonstrating study trends in the area. The three clusters with the highest impact are: (1) nanoemulsions as encapsulation and delivery technologies for essential oils; (2) encapsulation/nanoencapsulation technologies using nanofibers, nanoparticles, nanohydrogels, microcapsules, and cyclodextrins for essential oils to enhance stability, bioavailability, and controlled release; and (3) nanoencapsulation/nanoemulsification technologies of bioactive natural compounds for controlled release systems and improved stability and biological activity. CONCLUSIONS: The growth in publications between 2020 and 2026 confirms the consolidation of nanotechnologies as the main strategy for the delivery of essential oils in cosmetics. Nanoemulsions and nanoencapsulation systems based on different platforms stand out as core technologies for increasing stability, bioavailability, and controlled release. Thus, nanotechnology is established as a strategic approach for the development of more effective and innovative cosmetic products.

IS BLACK SKIN HYDRATION CAPABLE OF MITIGATING ULTRAVIOLET RADIATION–INDUCED OXIDATIVE STRESS?

Authors

Michelle Maria Gonçalves Barão de Aguiar1*; Isabella Bezana1; Victor Hugo de Oliveira Lopes1, Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto1; Maria Valéria Robles Velasco1; André Rolim Baby1

Affiliations

1Departamento de Farmácia, Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas, Universidade de São Paulo, São Paulo, SP, Brasil

Abstract

Studies on the African diaspora in the Americas have contributed to expanding knowledge about phenotypic diversity1. In Brazil, more than 55% of the population self-identifies as Black, encompassing phototypes IV to VI2,3. However, most investigations on skin hydration and photoprotection remain predominantly focused on Caucasian skin, often excluding Black individuals. As a result, the effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR), as well as data on barrier function and hydration in Black skin, remain insufficiently elucidated4,5. The stratum corneum (SC), an essential component of the skin barrier, contains lipids and constituents of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) derived from filaggrin6,7. In Black skin, lower filaggrin expression may lead to reduced NMF content and cutaneous hydration, compromising barrier function and increasing susceptibility to oxidative stress7. OBJECTIVE: The present study aimed to evaluate the emollient and barrier-protective effects of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion on Black skin by quantifying UVR-induced lipid peroxides using the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC protocol, as well as by assessing skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) using Corneometer ® and Tewameter ®, respectively. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Nine participants (18–60 years old), with no history or presence of skin diseases, were included in the study (approved by Ethics Committee; CAAE 86055024.0.0000.0067). SC samples (treated and untreated) were collected by tape stripping from the forearm region, irradiated in a photostability chamber, and analyzed for the malondialdehyde–thiobarbituric acid adduct (MDA–TBA₂)3. In vivo assays were conducted in 15 Black participants using Corneometer ® and Tewameter ® to investigate skin hydration and TEWL, respectively, evaluated at baseline (T0) and at 0.5, 1, and 2 h, on forearm skin treated only with water or with the emulsion8. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The results indicate that, in Black skin, application of the formulations promoted hydrating and occlusive effects; however, these effects were transient. Corneometry showed a significant increase in SC hydration after application of the formulations compared with baseline (T0), particularly at 0.5 h, confirming an immediate humectant effect. This increase progressively decreased over time (1 and 2 h), suggesting a gradual return toward baseline hydration levels of Black skin. TEWL data showed a consistent reduction in water loss after emulsion application, indicating a temporary occlusive effect and momentary improvement in skin barrier function. After 2 h, a tendency toward increased TEWL was observed, suggesting a gradual loss of the occlusive effect. Following UVR exposure, samples treated with the O/W emulsion showed increased levels of lipid peroxides, indicating photodamage and enhanced lipid peroxidation. Statistical analysis confirmed significant differences among time points but did not demonstrate prolonged effects capable of maintaining hydration and barrier integrity above baseline levels for extended periods. CONCLUSION: Although the formulations demonstrated the ability to promote immediate hydration and temporarily reduce TEWL in Black skin, these effects were insufficient to prevent UVR-induced lipid oxidative stress. These findings indicate that improved skin hydration alone cannot prevent oxidative stress triggered by UVR exposure. Therefore, the results suggest that the incorporation of substances capable of mitigating UVR-induced photodamage, such as UV filters and antioxidants, is necessary in formulations intended for Black skin exposed to sunlight, reinforcing the need for photoprotection in this population.

EFFECTS OF THERMAL EXPOSURE ON THE INTERNAL INTEGRITY AND CURVATURE OF CURLY HAIR.

Authors

Nathana Cindy Barros Silva Ramos1,2*, Viviane Cristina Albarici1, Wanderson Andenberg de Lima1, Mayara Miranda Ferreira1, Adriano Pinheiro1, Maria Valéria Robles Velasco2.

Affiliations

1Grupo Kosmoscience, Valinhos/SP – Brasil.

Abstract

During the hair transition process, many women resort to the use of thermal tools, such as hair dryers and flat irons, to minimize the difference in curl pattern between the natural regrowth and previously straightened ends. Although thermal straightening is often considered less aggressive than chemical processes, recurrent heat exposure can compromise both the morphology and the internal structure of the hair fiber, especially in curly hair, whose structural integrity is directly related to curl definition and recovery. OBJECTIVES: This study aimed to evaluate the damage caused by the use of hair dryers and flat irons on curly hair, considering changes in curl pattern through image analysis and modifications in the internal structure of the hair fiber by thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). MATERIAL AND METHODS: Curly hair tresses were subjected to controlled cycles of thermal exposure using a hair dryer (80 °C) and a flat iron (230 °C), simulating conditions commonly adopted during hair transition. The tresses were divided into three groups: Natural Control (no thermal damage), Damaged Control (treated with 10% LESS followed by thermal damage), and Treatment Group (treated with a commercial product containing a blend of silicones and vegetable oils followed by thermal damage). Internal damage characterization was performed by thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), evaluating mass loss profiles as a function of temperature, with emphasis on events associated with water evaporation and degradation of the organic constituents of the hair fiber. Curl loss was assessed by image analysis, in which the Curl Index was calculated based on the angular distribution histogram of the hair fibers. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: Samples subjected to thermal treatment (Damaged Control and Treatment groups) showed significant changes in thermogravimetric profiles compared to the natural control, indicating reduced thermal stability of the hair fiber and alterations in degradation events associated with the protein matrix. Similarly, image analysis indicated visible damage to hair curl pattern. These results demonstrate internal structural impairment even under conditions considered moderate use. Additionally, a reduction in curl definition and recovery capacity after heat exposure was observed, suggesting that the internal damage identified by TGA is correlated with visible morphological changes in the fibers. However, the commercial product demonstrated a protective effect, as TGA and image analysis results showed that the extent of damage in treated hair was lower than that observed in the Damaged Control group. CONCLUSIONS: The results demonstrate that thermal straightening through the use of hair dryers and flat irons is not free of damage, promoting cumulative alterations in both the internal structure and curl pattern of curly hair. This study contributes to the understanding of heat-induced effects on the hair fiber and reinforces the importance of awareness regarding the recurrent use of thermal tools, particularly during the hair transition process.

QUALITATIVE CHEMICAL CHARACTERIZATION OF THE ETHANOLIC EXTRACT OF HUMULUS LUPULUS L. VARIETY TEAMAKER BY LC-HRMS WITH A FOCUS ON COSMETIC APPLICATION

Authors

Giovana Chieza Madeiraa, Herllon Karllos Athaydes Kerra,c, Sophia Carvalho Souzaa, Julia Vieira Moreiraa, Alan Reinke Pereiraa, Nathália dos Santos Conceiçãoa, Wanderson Romãoa, Arthur Meriguetib, Rodrigo Schererb, Marcella Leite Portoa,c

Affiliations

aInstituto Federal do Espírito Santo – IFES, Vila Velha, ES, Brasil.

bUniversidade de Vila Velha – UVV, Vila Velha, ES, Brasil.

cPrograma de Pós-Graduação em Bioquímica, Universidade Federal do Espírito Santo (UFES), Vitória, ES, Brasil.

Abstract

Innovation in bioactive ingredients aimed at cosmetology has been driven by the need to enhance the performance of cosmetic formulations, combined with the increasing appreciation of substances of natural origin, recognized for their functional potential and favorable safety profile. In this context, Humulus lupulus L. (hops), traditionally associated with the fermented beverage industry, has attracted growing scientific interest due to the expansion of its use into the pharmaceutical and cosmetic sectors, owing to the presence of secondary metabolites distributed throughout its morphological structures¹. Recent studies indicate that hops are rich in polyphenols, particularly prenylated flavonoids, phenolic compounds, and bitter acid derivatives, which are responsible for antioxidant, antimicrobial, cytotoxic, and antitumor activities²˒³. Despite the evident advances in hops research, studies specifically focused on the systematic analysis of the crude extract of the Teamaker variety remain scarce, highlighting a relevant scientific gap. Therefore, the evaluation of this variety becomes timely in order to understand and reinforce its potential as an innovative and sustainable alternative for applications in scientific cosmetology. OBJECTIVE: In this context, the present study aimed to qualitatively characterize the chemical profile of the ethanolic extract of Humulus lupulus L., Teamaker variety, cultivated in Brazil, using liquid chromatography coupled with high-resolution mass spectrometry (LC-HRMS), seeking to evaluate its potential application as a bioactive cosmetic ingredient. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Cones of the Teamaker variety were subjected to drying, grinding, and ethanolic extraction processes. The extract was analyzed by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry, operating in both positive and negative ionization modes, with full-scan acquisition and data-dependent fragmentation (dd-MS²). The elucidation of chemical constituents was performed based on the analysis of observed exact masses, fragmentation patterns, and comparison with data available in the scientific literature. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: Qualitative chemical characterization of the ethanolic extract revealed the presence of secondary metabolites, with emphasis on flavonoids such as xanthohumol, quercetin, kaempferol, and rutin, in addition to phenolic acids, particularly p-coumaric acid³˒⁴. Xanthohumol, a prenylated flavonoid, exhibits high antioxidant capacity and antimicrobial activity, as well as anti-inflammatory properties, and has been widely investigated for its potential to modulate cellular pathways associated with oxidative stress⁵˒⁶. The presence of p-coumaric acid further reinforces the antioxidant potential of the extract, as these acids act in the neutralization of reactive oxygen species and in protection against oxidative damage induced by environmental factors². Taken together, the chemical properties identified in the ethanolic extract suggest functional potentials compatible with its use in cosmetic formulations aimed at skin protection, maintenance of skin homeostasis, and damage prevention. CONCLUSIONS: Thus, the ethanolic extract of Humulus lupulus L., Teamaker variety, exhibits a qualitatively broad phytochemical composition, supporting its potential as a bioactive cosmetic ingredient. The results obtained provide an initial scientific basis for the application of this variety in cosmetology, as well as supporting future studies on quantification, analytical validation, and evaluation in cosmetic products.

VALORIZATION OF REUSED COFFEE POWDER IN PHYSICAL EXFOLIANTS: IN VIVO EVALUATION OF HYDRATION, TEWL AND CUTANEOUS OILINESS

Authors

Ana Beatriz Barbosa Fernandes¹,*, Amanda Beatriz de Barros¹, Gabriela Salzedas Peres1, Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto¹, Fabiana Vieira Lima Solino Pessoa2, Maria Valéria Robles Velasco¹, André Rolim Baby¹

Affiliations

¹ Departamento de Farmácia, Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas, USP, São Paulo, SP, Brasil; 2 Departamento de Ciências da Saúde/Curso de Farmácia, UFES, São Mateus, ES, Brasil

Abstract

The Brazilian cosmetic market is faced with a growing demand for innovations aligned with environmental awareness, stimulating the reuse of waste and the mitigation of impacts on the ecosystem (CHAVEZ, 2016). Coffee (Coffea arabica) stands out among the most relevant agricultural crops and is among the most consumed beverages worldwide (BRASIL, 2023). Coffee powder discarded after brewing is a solid waste rich in fiber and bioactive compounds, with potential application as an abrasive ingredient in physical exfoliants (PINEDA et al., 2022). These products are widely used in the approach to (photo)aged skin, promoting epidermal renewal by mechanical removal of corneal cells and helping to clean pores, contributing to the prevention of acne (AZCONA, 2006; GARROTE; BONET, 2008; RIBEIRO et al., 2013). Considering that mechanical exfoliation can impact relevant skin attributes, it becomes essential to evaluate in vivo the safety and efficacy of formulations containing alternative abrasives of sustainable origin. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the in vivo functional efficacy of physical exfoliating dermocosmetic formulations based on reused coffee powder, valuing an agro-industrial residue. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The discarded coffee powder was obtained at the Department of Pharmacy of the Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences of the University of São Paulo and dried in an oven at 60 °C for 24 h. Three formulations were developed in the form of gels: placebo gel, gel containing silica microspheres (positive control) and gel containing reused coffee powder. The in vivo study, approved by the Research Ethics Committee of FCF-USP (CAAE 88334125.0.0000.0067), was conducted with healthy adult participants, in a randomized design. The formulations were applied to the frontal region of the face. Superficial skin hydration was quantified by Corneometer CM 825, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by Tewameter TM Hex, and oiliness by sebumetry using the Multi Probe Adapter system (Courage + Khazaka). Measurements of skin attributes occurred before the application of the samples (baseline, T0), 48 hours after the first application (D2) and 24 hours after the second application (D3). Statistical analysis was performed using ANOVA followed by Fisher (p < 0.05). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: There was a significant effect of time and formulation on superficial skin hydration (p < 0.05). At baseline, there were no differences between the participants, evidencing initial homogeneity. After the second treatment (D3), the positive control (gel + silica) promoted a reduction in skin hydration, while the gel containing reused coffee powder showed an intermediate value, with no difference in relation to the placebo gel. For the TEWL, no significant differences were observed between formulations or times (p > 0.05), with stable values throughout the investigation, indicating the absence of impairment of the barrier function (MIOTTO, 2018). Similarly, sebumetry did not reveal differences between the treatments or times evaluated, and the variations were attributed to individual physiological variability. These results suggested that coffee grounds acted as a milder abrasive when compared to silica, preserving hydration and skin barrier integrity (DAVE et al., 2022; MUNJEWAR et al., 2024). CONCLUSIONS: Reused coffee powder demonstrated potential as a sustainable abrasive ingredient for physical skin exfoliants, having exhibited less impact on skin hydration compared to the positive control, with no changes in TEWL or skin oiliness. Such observations reinforce the feasibility of reusing coffee powder as an environmentally favorable alternative for the development of dermocosmetic exfoliants, and more extensive protocols need to be applied to evaluate the performance of this ingredient more deeply.

EVALUATION OF DIFFERENT PROTOCOLS FOR INDUCING SKIN BARRIER DYSFUNCTION IN IN VITRO AND EX VIVO MODELS OF ATOPIC DERMATITIS

Authors

Giovana Valim Albigesi1,*, Gustavo Henrique da Silva1, Thatiane Yoshie Kanazawa1, Ana Lúcia Tabarini Pinheiro1, Barbara de Freitas Carli1, Kelen Fabíola Arroteia1, Samara

Affiliations

1Grupo Kosmoscience, Valinhos, Brasil

Abstract

The skin acts as the body's main protective barrier, playing an essential role in skin homeostasis, preventing excessive water loss and protecting against external agents. This barrier function is sustained mainly by the epidermis, especially the keratinocytes, which express essential structural proteins such as filaggrin.

Filaggrin plays a fundamental role in epidermal differentiation, organization of the stratum corneum and maintenance of skin hydration; a reduction in its expression is directly associated with conditions of barrier dysfunction. Inflammatory skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, are characterized by a deregulated immune response, with a predominance of Th2-type cytokines, especially the interleukins IL-4 and IL-13, which affects structural proteins, contributing to epidermal barrier dysfunction. Experimental models based on stimulation with IL-4 and IL-13 can be used to mimic inflammatory conditions and impairment of the skin barrier; in this context, the validation of reliable experimental models is essential.

The aim of this study was to compare different protocols for inducing skin barrier dysfunction in in vitro (cell culture) and ex vivo (human skin fragments) models. To this end, different stimulation protocols with IL-4 and IL-13 were evaluated and the protein expression of filaggrin was used as a marker of the efficacy of the models.

For both experimental models, a basal control and a positive control were established, in which an inflammatory condition was induced through different stimuli with IL-4 and IL-13. In the ex vivo model, human skin fragments were kept in culture and exposed on the first day to 100 ng/mL of each cytokine for initial induction of the inflammatory process. From the second to the fourth day, the tissues remained under sustained inflammatory stress with IL-4 and IL-13 at 30 ng/mL each. On the fifth day, the fragments were collected, cryopreserved, sectioned in a cryostat and subjected to the immunofluorescence technique to detect filaggrin. At the same time, in the in vitro model, human keratinocytes (HaCaT) were plated and the positive control group was incubated with IL-4 and IL-13 at 10ng/mL for 24 hours. After treatment, the supernatant of the cell cultures was collected for filaggrin quantification by immunoenzymatic method.

Stimulation with IL-4 and IL-13 led to a reduction in filaggrin protein expression compared to basal control conditions, both in the in vitro and ex vivo models, suggesting impairment of the skin barrier under inflammatory stress. In the in vitro model, acute stimulation with IL-4 and IL-13 promoted an average reduction of 7.95% in filaggrin levels compared to the baseline group, with no statistically significant difference, indicating a discrete modulating effect of inflammatory cytokines on keratinocytes under the conditions evaluated. In contrast, in the ex vivo model, acute stimulation associated with sustained chronic stimulation with IL-4 and IL-13 resulted in a more marked reduction in filaggrin protein expression, corresponding to 51.56% in relation to the basal control, with a statistically significant difference (t-test, p-value<0.001).

The discrepancy between the models suggests a greater biological complexity and responsiveness of the ex vivo system to acute inflammation associated with the maintenance of a chronic inflammatory stimulus, possibly due to the preservation of tissue architecture and cellular interactions provided by this model. Taken together, the results show that sustained inflammatory stimulation of IL4 and IL-13 is an effective protocol for inducing skin barrier dysfunction in an ex vivo model. In turn, the in vitro model is suitable for investigating initial cellular and mechanistic responses, albeit with a lower magnitude of effect under the conditions tested.

DO THE COLORING AND BLEACHING PROCESSES DAMAGE HAIR FIBER? HOW TO EVALUATE

Authors

Árina Colombane Câmara1, Nathalia Magnocavallo1, Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto1, Michelli Ferrera Dario1,2, Robson Miranda da Gama3,4 André Rolim Baby1, Maria Valéria Robles Velasco1

Affiliations

1Universidade de São Paulo, São Paulo, Brasil; 2Universidade Federal de São Paulo, Diadema, Brasil; 3Universidade Santo Amaro, São Paulo, Brasil; 4Centro Universitário FMABC, Santo André, Brasil

Abstract

Hair coloring represents a significant segment of the cosmetics market, with 51% of Brazilians using hair dye. The Brazilian hair care market reached US$ 6.06 billion in 2023, with growth forecast to reach US$ 7.70 billion by 2028, with permanent coloring dominating sales. Understanding the structural and chemical impacts of bleaching and coloring treatments on hair fibers is essential to guide manufacturers and consumers in choosing products and their ingredients. OBJECTIVES: Evaluate and compare the effects of hair coloring/bleaching treatments on hair fiber properties related to the cuticles and hair cortex, which reflect the condition and strength of the fiber. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Straight, virgin, dark brown hair strands (15 cm, 3.0 g) were subjected to eight treatments (triplicate): 1 (bleaching powder + hydrogen peroxide 40 vol/157 min); 2 to 4 (bleaching powder + 30, 20, and 10 vol/ 45 min peroxide, followed by coloring with dyes (Coferly®) 10.1, 8.1, and 7.73 + 40, 30, or 20 vol/ 45 min hydrogen peroxide, respectively); 5 to 8 (coloring with dyes (Coferly®) 12.0, 10.1, 8.1, and 7.73 + hydrogen peroxide 40, 30, 20, or 10 vol/ 45 min; respectively). Combability was evaluated using Diastron® MTT175 at 22°C by measuring the total force (J) required for combing. Color was measured using diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry (CIELAB system), calculating the total color difference (ΔE*). Protein loss was quantified by the Lowry method modified by Peterson using standard bovine albumin (96.1% purity), reagents A and B (Folin-Ciocalteau), and a Shimadzu® UV-1203 spectrophotometer at 750 nm. Statistical analysis used Student's t-test and one-way ANOVA with Tukey's test (α = 0.05). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: Isolated bleaching (Treat 1) showed the greatest color difference (ΔE* = 65.2 ± 1.8) and significantly increased the combing force by 60% compared to virgin strands, evidencing greater structural damage to the cuticle. In contrast, combined treatments of bleaching followed by coloring reduced the force required for combing, with the best result showing a 49.5% reduction (Treat. 8), due to the deposit of pigments and conditioning ingredients in the formulation and lower hydrogen peroxide volume. In protein quantification, all treatments caused greater loss than in the control strands (5.1 ± 2.7 μg/mL), bleaching caused 55.8 ± 7.9 μg/mL, and in combination with dyeing (Treat 3), the lower value of 34.8 μg/mL. CONCLUSIONS: Discoloration treatments compromise the structural integrity of the hair cuticle. The balance of the formulation with the addition of conditioning agents partially mitigates damage to the cuticle and significantly improves combability, but does not protect the cortex against keratin degradation. The oxidative action of the coloring process, especially with the use of high-volume hydrogen peroxide, damages the hair fiber considerably.

CONTRIBUTION OF NEW AMINOFLAVONES TO THE IN VITRO PERFORMANCE OF SUNSCREENS

Authors

Roberto Parise-Filho¹, Sabrina Fuzetti Savaglia¹,*, Karinne Esteves Prado¹, Mônica Franco Zannini Junqueira Toledo¹, Felipe Rebello Lourenço¹, Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto¹, André Rolim Baby¹

Affiliations

¹ Departamento de Farmácia, Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas, Universidade de São Paulo, São Paulo, Brasil

Abstract

Excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is associated with the development of acute and chronic skin damage, including inflammation, premature aging, and skin cancer. Although organic and inorganic sunscreens are widely used, limitations related to photostability and lack of multifunctionality motivate the search for new adjuvant ingredients. In this context, flavonoids, especially flavones, have stood out for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective properties1. Aminoflavones, synthetic flavones containing an amino group attached to the aromatic ring2, have a differentiated structural profile, with potential application as multifunctional adjuvants in photoprotective systems. OBJECTIVES: To synthesize and characterize novel aminoflavones and to evaluate their potential as adjuvant ingredients in photoprotective formulations, focusing on in vitro photoprotective efficacy assessed by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry with an integrating sphere, as well as on their interaction with conventional sunscreen filters. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The aminoflavones were obtained through a three-step synthetic route involving Claisen–Schmidt condensation, cyclo-oxidation to form the flavone core, and amination via the Buchwald–Hartwig reaction3. The compounds were purified and characterized by NMR, FTIR, HRMS, and HPLC. The molecules were incorporated into an emulsified formulation containing UVA filters (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) and UVB filters (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate)4. In vitro photoprotective efficacy was evaluated using a Labsphere UV2000S system with PMMA plates, determining the sun protection factor (SPF), critical wavelength (nm), and UVA/UVB ratio. Photostability was assessed in a Suntest CPS+ chamber5. The results were analyzed by ANOVA followed by Tukey’s test (p < 0.05). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: Two aminoflavones, designated KEP43 and KEP46, were obtained with satisfactory yields and high purity. The overall analysis of photoprotective efficacy parameters demonstrated that the incorporation of KEP43 or KEP46 positively modulated the performance of the UV filter system, particularly after exposure to artificial UV radiation. Although no significant differences in initial SPF were observed among the groups (p > 0.05), the formulation containing KEP43 showed superior SPF retention after irradiation in a photostability chamber compared to the base formulation and the formulation containing KEP46 (p < 0.05). In addition, both aminoflavones promoted a significant and sustained increase in critical wavelength, maintaining values ≥ 378–384 nm at all irradiation levels, thereby characterizing broad-spectrum protection and evidencing a functional photostabilizing effect. This behavior was further corroborated by an increase in the UVA/UVB ratio in formulations containing KEP43 and KEP46, even under higher irradiation conditions, while the base formulation exhibited a marked decrease in this parameter (p < 0.05). CONCLUSIONS: The results indicated that the aminoflavones acted as photoprotective adjuvants, with KEP43 standing out by exhibiting the best balance between SPF retention and preservation of the critical wavelength, thereby reinforcing its potential application in broad-spectrum sunscreens with improved functional robustness.

SOLID SHAMPOOS WITH PLANT-BASED ACTIVE INGREDIENTS (FLAXSEED, COCONUT, AND SHEA BUTTER) FOR CURLY AND KINKY HAIR: DEVELOPMENT AND EVALUATION

Authors

Isabela Almeida Mendes¹*, Monica Maruno2, Josinete Salvador Alves2.

Affiliations

1 Estudante (Iniciação Científica) do Centro Universitário Barão de Mauá, Curso de Estética & Cosmética, Ribeirão Preto, São Paulo, Brasil.

2 Docente do Centro Universitário Barão de Mauá, Curso de Farmácia, Ribeirão Preto, São Paulo, Brasil.

Abstract

Curly and frizzy hair has specific morphological characteristics, such as a flatter and more curved shape, which make it difficult to distribute sebum along the hair fiber, making it naturally more susceptible to dryness. The use of shampoos containing sulfated surfactants can intensify this effect, promoting excessive removal of lipids and compromising the integrity of the hair strand. In this context, there is a growing demand for milder, more effective, and eco-friendly formulations, such as solid shampoos with natural ingredients, especially tailored to the needs of this type of hair. Solid shampoos are characterized by being more sustainable, as they have a low water content in their composition and allow the use of alternative packaging to conventional ones, which are inherent aspects of this type of product. OBJECTIVES: To obtain and characterize solid shampoo formulations for curly and frizzy hair, containing shea butter or coconut oil, aqueous flaxseed extract, with an emphasis on evaluating stability and functional performance. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Solid shampoo formulations were developed containing a surfactant system composed of sodium isethionate and cocoamidopropyl betaine, associated with structuring and lipid agents of plant origin. The formulations contained aqueous flaxseed extract, glycerin, fatty alcohols, vegetable waxes, and preservatives compatible with aqueous systems. Variations in lipid composition were developed using shea butter, coconut oil, palm fat, beeswax, or carnauba wax. The formulations were evaluated for appearancevisual, pH value, foam index, dirt dispersion capacity, and relative density of flaxseed extract. All tests were performed in triplicate. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The formulations developed presented visual stability and homogeneous texture, with better structural performance in formulations containing palm fat compared to those formulated with carnauba wax. The average relative density of the aqueous flaxseed extract was 1.03 g/mL, a value obtained from tests performed in triplicate. The pH values of the shampoo bars were around 6.0, representing reproducible averages among the samples evaluated, compatible with hair products. Less foaming was observed compared to commercial products containing sulfated surfactants, without compromising cleaning ability, as evidenced in the dirt dispersion test. The presence of lipid agents contributed to the functional performance of the formulations, favoring the conditioning of the hair fiber, especially in curly and frizzy hair. CONCLUSIONS: The solid shampoo formulations developed presented physicochemical characteristics compatible with the proposed use in curly and frizzy hair, including visual stability, adequate pH, and satisfactory performance in the tests performed. Variations in lipid composition influenced the structure and sensory appearance of the formulations, with better performance of formulations containing palm fat. The solid form of the product and the formulated composition allowed for the production of more sustainable shampoos with low water content without compromising the parameters evaluated.

EVALUATION OF EFFICACY AGAINST THE EFFECTS OF ENVIRONMENTAL POLLUTION AND SOLAR RADIATION USING AN IN VITRO CELL CULTURE MODEL

Authors

Helena Chaud Pereira¹*, Nayara Fernanda Tokashike de Araújo¹, Lorena Rigo Gaspar¹

Affiliations

¹ Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto (FCFRP-USP), Ribeirão Preto, Brasil

Abstract

Air pollution is a major risk factor for skin health and is associated with premature aging, inflammation, and increased oxidative stress [1,2]. Among its components, particulate matter (PM) stands out, consisting of particles derived from combustion processes that are capable of penetrating the skin and inducing the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) [2,3]. PM can be classified into PM2.5 and PM10, with diameters of 2.5 μm and 10 μm, respectively, and also contains polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) with a high capacity to induce ROS [3,4]. Although several studies have already investigated the impacts of particulate matter (PM) on the skin, research evaluating the synergistic effects of pollution and UV radiation remains scarce. OBJECTIVES: Development of an in vitro cell culture model to evaluate the efficacy of new substances capable of protecting the skin against environmental pollution, by simulating cutaneous exposure to particulate matter (PM) and UV radiation. MATERIALS AND METHODS: To prepare the samples, PM2.5 and PM10PAH materials were solubilized in 10 μL of DMSO, and suspensions of 100 and 150 μg/mL were prepared in PBS. Quercetin (QUER) was used as an antioxidant control, while norfloxacin (NOR) was used as a pro-oxidant control [5,6]. The evaluation of ROS production was performed in human keratinocyte HaCaT cell cultures [6]. Cells were seeded in 96-well plates and incubated for 24 hours. Cell viability was assessed to reduce false-positive results [5]. Cells were treated with the samples and incubated for 1 hour, followed by the application of the DCFH2-DA probe. Subsequently, the plates were exposed to a total dose of 4 J/cm² of UVA radiation, and fluorescence intensity was measured immediately after irradiation. The fluorescence of untreated irradiated cells (NT + UV) was considered as 100% (p < 0.05, ANOVA, Tukey’s test, n = 3) [6]. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: None of the particular matters showed cytotoxicity in the cell viability assay [7]. In the ROS production assessment, NOR exhibited a pro-oxidant effect, inducing the generation of these species by up to 38.6% compared to NT. The particulate matter MP2.5 and MP10PAH, when tested alone, also exhibited pro-oxidant activity at both concentrations, promoting an increase in ROS generation of up to 14.7% and 32.4%, respectively. When combined with NOR, they induced an even more pronounced increase in ROS, up to 45.5% and 67.4%, respectively. QUER, on the other hand, demonstrated an antioxidant effect, reducing ROS generation by up to 70.8%. Furthermore, when combined with MP2.5, QUER significantly reduced ROS generation compared to the group treated only with MP2.5, achieving a reduction of up to 45.9%. When combined with MP10PAH, QUER also significantly decreased ROS generation compared to the group treated only with MP10PAH (61.2%). CONCLUSIONS: The results demonstrated that both MP2.5 and MP10PAH exhibit pro-oxidant activity, significantly increasing ROS production. Quercetin, in contrast, maintained its antioxidant effect, reducing ROS generation even when combined with the particulate matter. Thus, the developed in vitro model proved effective in simulating skin exposure to environmental pollution and can be used to evaluate the antioxidant potential of new cosmetic active ingredients.

WATER-DISPERSIBLE, TRANSPARENT STAR-SHAPED ZnO AS A PLATFORM FOR HIGH-PERFORMANCE GREEN MINERAL-ONLY SUNSCREENS

Authors

Emanuelle Cabaline Ziviani1, Gustavo Teixeira Machado1, Mariana Donatelli Benedito1, Stephany Mayumi Araki2, Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto3, André Rolim Baby2, George Ricardo Santana Andrade3, Fabiana Vieira Lima Solino Pessoa1*

Affiliations

1Departamento de Ciências da Saúde, UFES, São Mateus, ES, Brasil; 2 Departamento de Farmácia, Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas, USP, São Paulo, Brasil; 3 Programa de Pós-Graduação em Ciências da Natureza, UFES, São Mateus, ES, Brasil.

Abstract

The search for safer and more sustainable sunscreens has driven the development of mineral UV filters and organic-filter-free formulations. Zinc oxide (ZnO) is a photostable, broad-spectrum inorganic filter. However, aggregation, poor water dispersibility, and heterogeneous film formation can increase visible-light scattering, leading to white cast and poor sensory acceptance. Therefore, strategies that improve dispersibility and reduce opacity while maintaining high UVA/UVB protection are essential for mineral-only sunscreens containing ZnO as the sole UV filter1.2.3. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate star-shaped ZnO synthesized via a sustainable aqueous route for its performance in mineral-only formulations (25 wt%), preliminary stability, and in vitro photoprotective efficacy (SPF, UVA-PF, and λc), as well as improved water dispersibility and reduced white cast compared with commercial ZnO references. MATERIALS AND METHODS: ZnO was produced by aqueous precipitation (alkaline adjustment) followed by drying/calcination. Structure was assessed by X-ray diffraction, and crystallite size was estimated by the Scherrer equation. Optical properties were evaluated by UV/Vis diffuse reflectance, and morphology by transmission electron microscopy. Two mineral-only formulations (25 wt% star-shaped ZnO; no organic filters) were prepared and submitted to preliminary stability test4. In vitro SPF/UVA parameters were obtained by diffuse-reflectance spectrophotometry with an integrating sphere on roughened PMMA plates using a standardized application of 1.3 mg/cm², 30-min drying protected from light, and five readings per plate in triplicate, scanning 290–400 nm. SPF, λc, and UVA-PF were calculated. Photostability was assessed by repeating the measurements after 60 min of artificial UV irradiation5. Comparisons versus vehicle were performed at α = 0.05 by Student T. White cast was assessed by standardized photographic documentation after application on a human volunteer (ethics approval CAAE 86055024.0.0000.0067), and water dispersibility was qualitatively assessed during preparation against commercial reference ZnO. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The star-shaped ZnO synthesis was developed by the group in a previous study⁶. Characterization indicated the hexagonal wurtzite phase with no secondary phases, UVA/UVB interaction, and a three-dimensional star-shaped morphology composed of micro-scale nanoaggregates. During formulation, the material showed improved water dispersibility and reduced white cast compared with commercial references. The two mineral-only formulations containing 25 wt% star-shaped ZnO achieved in vitro SPF values of 38 ± 5.51 and 40 ± 15.94, λc = 381 nm, and UVA-PF values of 29 ± 2.0 and 28 ± 1.73, respectively, supporting robust UVA protection and broad-spectrum performance in mineral-only systems. CONCLUSIONS: Star-shaped ZnO synthesized via an aqueous route enabled mineral-only sunscreens with high in vitro UVA/UVB performance and reduced white cast, supporting its potential as a sustainable photoprotection platform.

360° APPROACH TO HAIR RECONSTRUCTION WITH PLANT BIOMATERIALS OF DIFFERENT MOLECULAR WEIGHTS

Authors

Rebeca Gasparin¹, Juliana Amado², Rita Cartaxo3, Marcia Paula4; Rafael Albuquerque5

Affiliations

¹Hair Care Center – Global Innovation Cosmetic Ingredients - Symrise, Cotia, Brasil; ²Advanced Actives - Symrise, Clichy, França; 3Advanced Actives - Symrise, Cotia, Brasil; 4Advanced Actives - Symrise, Nova Jersey, USA; 5Laboratório de Aplicação Brasil - Symrise, Cotia, Brasil.

Abstract

Hair fibers damaged by oxidative processes, such as bleaching, present profound structural changes that affect their mechanical, sensory, and permeability properties. Oxidation promotes the breakdown of chemical bonds of keratin, removal of structural lipids and increase of the surface charge of the fiber, making the hair more porous, hydrophilic, fragile and prone to breakage. The demand for effective and sustainable solutions for hair reconstruction has grown significantly. Plant-based, biodegradable actives with different molecular sizes offer the possibility of acting on multiple levels of fiber, promoting an adaptive and complete approach to reconstruction. OBJECTIVES: This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy of a combination of low molecular weight plant peptides, native wheat protein and plant lipid extract in the reconstruction of damaged hair, by improving the mechanical properties and resistance to breakage of the hair fiber. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Strands of Caucasian hair, natural and bleached, were previously sanitized with sodium lauryl ether sulfate solution. Shampoo and conditioner formulations (rinse and leave-on) containing 0.5% to 2.0% of the tested ingredients — oat and lupine vegetable peptides (<2 kDa), high molecular weight native wheat protein, and wheat lipid extract — were applied to the locks according to a standardized protocol. The mechanical strength of the fibers was evaluated by means of a cyclic fatigue test, analyzing the probability of survival and the characteristic life parameter (α). Breakage resistance was evaluated by repeated brushing breakage test (5,000 cycles), with collection and quantification of broken fragments. Statistical analysis was performed with 95% confidence. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: In the fatigue test, peptides or protein alone did not show a significant increase in fiber strength compared to placebo. However, the combination of 0.5% wheat protein with 1.0% lupine peptides resulted in a 39% increase in the characteristic life of fiber (α), evidencing a synergistic effect between active ingredients of different molecular sizes and mechanisms of action. In the brushing breakage test, all formulations with active ingredients significantly reduced breakage compared to the untreated control. The association of plant peptides with wheat lipid extract showed the best performance, reducing breakage by up to 96% compared to untreated hair and significantly outperforming placebo. The low molecular weight peptides act by penetrating the cortex and interacting with damaged keratin sites, while the native protein forms a surface film with an affinity for damaged areas. The lipid extract, on the other hand, contributes to the replacement of components of the cell membrane complex (CMC), improves internal cohesion and increases surface lubrication, reducing mechanical friction. CONCLUSION: The combination of low molecular weight vegetable peptides, native wheat protein and vegetable lipid extract demonstrated complementary and synergistic action in the reconstruction of damaged hair, acting from the interior of the fiber to its surface. This 360° approach promoted a significant increase in mechanical resistance and reduction of breakage, validating the use of natural, biodegradable and multifunctional materials as an effective and sustainable strategy for hair reconstruction.

PLANT-BASED PEPTIDE TECHNOLOGY FOR SCALP BARRIER STRENGTHENING AND HAIR FIBER PROTECTION

Authors

Rebeca Gasparin¹,* Juliana Amado², Rita Cartaxo3, Marcia Paula4; 5Joana Lima

Affiliations

¹Hair Care Center – Global Innovation Cosmetic Ingredients - Symrise, Cotia, Brasil; ²Advanced Actives - Symrise, Clichy, França; 3Advanced Actives - Symrise, Cotia, Brasil; 4Advanced Actives - Symrise, Nova Jersey, USA; 5Laboratório de Aplicação Brasil - Symrise, Cotia, Brasil.

Abstract

Plant-based peptides have been widely used in skin and hair care due to their ability to interact with damaged biological structures. On the scalp, skin barrier integrity is essential for maintaining adequate hydration levels and preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). In the hair fiber, oxidative and mechanical damage alters the structural properties of keratin, resulting in increased elasticity, loss of resistance and greater propensity to irreversible deformation. Thus, multifunctional actives that act simultaneously on the fiber and the scalp represent a holistic and innovative approach to hair care. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the efficacy of a low molecular weight and naturally derived vegetable lupine peptide in improving scalp hydration and enhancing the mechanical properties of damaged hair. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Scalp hydration was evaluated in an in vivo study with 36 volunteers with dry scalps, divided into two groups: shampoo containing 2.0% lupine peptide and placebo. The products were applied every other day for 28 days. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured on days 14 and 28 by trichoscopist, and baseline hydration was determined by corneometry. For ex vivo hair evaluation, strands of bleached Caucasian hair were treated with formulations containing the peptide in shampoo and conditioner. Mechanical strength was evaluated by tensile test, measuring the elastic modulus and extension to breakage in previously hydrated fibers. The results were compared to placebo and hydrolyzed keratin and collagen proteins. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: In the clinical study, the use of lupine peptide shampoo promoted a significant reduction in TEWL compared to placebo, with an improvement of 13% after 14 days and 17% after 28 days, indicating progressive reinforcement of the scalp barrier and improved hydration. In mechanical tests of hair fibers, the peptide demonstrated a significant increase in the elastic modulus of the fiber, indicating greater stiffness and resistance to deformation when compared to placebo. A reduction in extension until breakage was also observed, suggesting a decrease in excessive elasticity typical of damaged hair. These effects were higher than those obtained with hydrolyzed keratin and collagen at the concentrations evaluated. The low molecular weight of the peptide favors its penetration into the hair fiber, allowing interaction with damaged keratin sites and the formation of new bonds. On the scalp, its action contributes to the integrity of the skin barrier, reducing water loss and promoting moisture balance. CONCLUSIONS: The vegetable peptide of lupine demonstrated multifunctional benefits, promoting significant improvement of scalp hydration and reinforcement of the mechanical properties of damaged hair. This holistic approach highlights the potential of natural, sustainable and biodegradable biomaterials in the development of integrated solutions for hair and scalp care.

DEVELOPMENT OF A SOLID CONDITIONER CONTAINING FLAXSEED MUCILAGE AND SHEA BUTTER

Authors

Ana Júlia Lima Santos1*, Lana Tomaz da Silva1, Matheus Gabriel Oliveira Prado1, Josinete Salvador Alves2*

Affiliations

1 Estudante (Iniciação Científica) do Centro Universitário Barão de Mauá, Curso de Farmácia, Ribeirão Preto, São Paulo, Brasil.

2 Docente do Centro Universitário Barão de Mauá, Curso de Farmácia, Ribeirão Preto, São Paulo, Brasil.

Abstract

The growing demand for products designed for curly hair and sustainable cosmetics has driven the development of solid formulations. In this context, plant-based raw materials stand out for their lipid and functional polysaccharide composition. Shea butter has emollient fractions that promote softness and protect the hair fiber, while flaxseed mucilage contributes film-forming and moisturizing properties associated with hair conditioning. OBJECTIVE: Develop a solid hair conditioner formulation incorporating flaxseed mucilage and shea butter as functional agents that assist in conditioning hair fibers. MATERIALS AND METHODS: This experimental study was conducted in a laboratory setting and initially consisted of obtaining mucilage from flaxseed flour (Linum usitatissimum L.) through aqueous extraction at a concentration of 10% (m/m), performed at room temperature under agitation, followed by centrifugation to separate the insoluble material. The mucilage obtained was characterized in terms of density and moisture content. Subsequently, the mucilage was incorporated into the development of a solid cosmetic formulation for hair conditioning, intended for curly hair. The conditioning base, also under development, was composed of raw materials commonly used in hair preparations, including technical adjuvants and shea butter as an emollient agent. The formulation obtained was evaluated for organoleptic characteristics, pH, and combability performance. The combability test was performed on hair strands, comparatively, using a control formulation without incorporation of the active components. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The mucilage obtained had an average density of 1.07 g/mL, a value representative of determinations made in triplicate. The residual moisture content after drying in an oven was approximately 50%. The solid conditioner formulation incorporated quaternized guar gum, polyquaternium, and behentrimonium chloride as conditioning agents, in addition to flaxseed mucilage and shea butter. The bar obtained had adequate consistency, structural homogeneity, white coloration, and satisfactory sensory properties to the touch. The pH of the formulation was in the range of 3.5 to 4.0, according to determinations in triplicate, an interval compatible with products intended for hair conditioning, favoring the alignment of the cuticles. The combability test showed better performance in strands treated with the formulation containing flaxseed mucilage and shea butter when compared to those treated with the control formulation, without the incorporation of these substances. This improvement may be associated with the film-forming and emollient properties of these components. The moisture content found in the mucilage suggests water retention capacity, a characteristic that can favor both the sensory properties of the formulation and hair care, especially when associated with the emollient properties of shea butter. Additionally, the development of the formulation in solid form represents an approach aligned with contemporary sustainability strategies in cosmetics. CONCLUSIONS: It was possible to develop a solid hair conditioner formulation incorporating flaxseed mucilage and shea butter, with physical-chemical and sensory characteristics suitable for the proposed purpose. The formulation demonstrated superior performance in the combability test compared to the control formulation.

SCIENTIFIC COMMUNICATION IN COSMETOLOGY: STRATEGIES FOR PUBLIC ENGAGEMENT THROUGH SOCIAL MEDIA

Authors

Matsufuji, Amanda Y. ¹; Prata, A. M. ¹; Kakuda, L¹; Maia Campos, P. M. B. G.¹*

Affiliations

¹Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto - Universidade de São Paulo, Ribeirão Preto, Brasil

Abstract

Cosmetology is a rapidly evolving field whose technological advancements directly impact population health, well-being, and self-esteem. However, in an environment of information overload, the rapid circulation of content on social media can hinder the distinction between evidence-based information and misinformation, potentially leading to inappropriate cosmetic product usage and scientifically unsubstantiated self-care practices. In this context, scientific communication plays a fundamental role in promoting evidence-based knowledge, fostering critical thinking, and bridging the gap between science and society. OBJECTIVES: To promote scientific dissemination in the field of Cosmetology through interactive digital strategies, employing accessible language and creative approaches to translate scientific evidence for the public, reduce information asymmetry, and disseminate the studies published by the Center for Advanced Studies in Cosmetic Technology (NEATEC) of the School of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeirão Preto - University of São Paulo. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The project was developed within the scope of NEATEC's activities through the production of scientific dissemination content for social media, focusing on Instagram and LinkedIn. The method involved synthesizing weekly publications into posts and short videos on Instagram, using accessible language and didactic visual resources. The content addressed scientific dissemination of the laboratory's research, inclusive cosmetics, scientific education and awareness (e.g., sunscreen use), and participation in national and international scientific events. For LinkedIn, activities developed by the group were shared, such as event participation and scientific article publications, highlighting scientific relevance in an objective and institutional language. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: Over the period, an increase in audience engagement on NEATEC's social media platforms was observed, with greater interaction on posts concerning photoprotection and scientific dissemination. Audience analysis revealed a more pronounced reach among young adults aged 18 to 24, who accounted for 41% of interactions, achieving an average of 13,000 views and 500 interactions per month on Instagram. Furthermore, the Ribeirão Preto region showed higher engagement, which may reflect both the profile's affiliation with the University and participation in conferences. On LinkedIn, an increase in the reach of publications was verified throughout the year, with a total of 13,274 impressions, reaching even researchers and academic professionals from other countries, evidencing a relative reach of the content posted on the platform. Presence at events can amplify the visibility of NEATEC's profiles, subsequently leading to increased followership and consumption of evidence-based posts. Audiovisual content (short videos) proved more effective in conveying technical information comprehensibly compared to static posts. The simple and assertive communication strategy suggested potential for mitigating misinformation by providing evidence-based content and strengthening the credibility of academic output. Collectively, quantitative and qualitative indicators suggest that social media platforms, such as Instagram and LinkedIn, are relevant tools for bridging science and society. CONCLUSIONS: Scientific dissemination via social media proved to be a viable strategy for promoting education in Cosmetology and facilitating access to evidence-based content in a high-information-flow environment. The utilization of academic-scientific knowledge enabled reaching diverse audience profiles and fostering dialogue between academia and society. This experience reinforces the importance of social media as spaces for knowledge democratization and for building a more informed society.

FROM METHOD TO CLAIM: VALIDATION OF THE TENSILE BREAK TEST FOR TEXTURIZED HAIR

Authors

Mariana Mota Martins¹, Ana Uchoas¹, Diana Pereira¹, Flavia Causs¹, Glasiela Passos¹

Affiliations

¹ Croda do Brasil Ltda, Campinas, São Paulo.

Abstract

The diversity of human hair types is reflected not only in microscopic structural differences, but also in fiber behavior during daily use, such as brushing, washing, handling, and response to treatments. Understanding these differences is essential for the development of products that deliver benefits perceived by consumers, while respecting the biology and specific needs of each fiber type. In this context, the tensile test is widely employed for the mechanical characterization of hair fibers, providing parameters related to stiffness, elasticity, and fiber strength. However, existing protocols were predominantly developed for straight or wavy hair, presenting limitations when applied to texturized hair.

The objective of this study was to validate an adapted tensile test methodology for texturized hair using the Dia-Stron® MTT690 equipment, ensuring reproducibility, reliability of results, and applicability for the substantiation of mechanical claims in hair care products. Hair fibers classified as T1, T2, and T7 according to the L’Oréal classification were evaluated, as they represent relevant behavioral extremes within the cosmetic market.

The methodology included adaptations in sample preparation, fiber diameter measurement, and tensile test parameters. Validation was performed using four independent hair tresses per hair type group, and the data was analyzed by analysis of variance (ANOVA), adopting p > 0.05.

The parameters elastic extension, elastic stress, elastic modulus, break extension, break stress, and toughness were analyzed. These parameters show direct correlation with properties perceived during daily use, such as resistance to breakage, fiber flexibility, and handling behavior, enabling the translation of mechanical data into consumer relevant benefits.

No statistically significant differences were observed among replicates within the same hair type group, demonstrating high reproducibility and robustness of the adapted methodology. The comparison among T1, T2, and T7 revealed distinct mechanical trajectories, allowing these mechanical differences to be translated into objective performance indicators and supporting cosmetic claims related to breakage reduction, increased flexibility, and improved resistance to mechanical stress.

While T1 showed the highest toughness and the greatest extension before breaking, T2 exhibited a balance between strength and elasticity, and T7 demonstrated higher stiffness and greater susceptibility to breakage. These results indicate that generic evaluation and development approaches tend to mask relevant functional differences among hair types, whereas the validated methodology enables more assertive decision making in the development and recommendation of cosmetics and ingredients specifically designed for texturized hair. The protocol contributes to a more representative assessment of Brazilian hair diversity and reinforces the importance of developing hair care solutions aligned with the real needs of each fiber type.

EX VIVO QUANTIFICATION OF UROCANIC ACID (TRANS AND CIS) IN THE HUMAN STRATUM CORNEUM: EVALUATION OF PHOTOINDUCED RESPONSE IN DIFFERENT PHOTOTYPES

Authors

Caio Rui Chiabai¹,*, Michelle Maria Gonçalves Barão de Aguiar1, Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto1, Maria Valéria Robles Velasco1, André Rolim Baby¹

Affiliations

¹ Departamento de Farmácia, Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas, Universidade de São Paulo, São Paulo, Brasil.

Abstract

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces biochemical changes in the stratum corneum (SC), including isomerization of urocanic acid (UCA) from its trans to cis form. Accumulation of cis-UCA is associated with UV‑induced cutaneous immunomodulation and is considered an early molecular marker of photoinduced damage1. Although clinical outcomes such as erythema are widely used, they have important limitations, especially in higher skin phototypes where erythemal response is less evident and does not adequately reflect molecular changes2,3. In this context, quantification of the trans‑ and cis‑UCA isoforms by high‑performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) in SC samples obtained by tape stripping is a convenient tool to assess the biochemical impact of UV radiation and to investigate differences in the SC photochemical response between lower and higher phototypes4. OBJECTIVES: To quantify ex vivo the trans‑ and cis‑UCA isoforms in human SC by HPLC and to evaluate photoinduced conversion after exposure to artificial UV radiation, comparing the magnitude of this response between lower and higher skin phototypes, and to assess the influence of applying a base formulation on this process. MATERIALS AND METHODS: An intra‑subject study was conducted with healthy participants classified according to the Fitzpatrick scale, grouped into phototypes I–III and IV–VI; the protocol was approved by the FCF‑USP Ethics Committee (CAAE 86055024.0.0000.0067). Forearm areas were randomized into three conditions: SC (non‑irradiated), SCirr (irradiated, no product) and Control (vehicle applied at 2.0 mg·cm⁻², 30 min before exposure). SC was collected by sequential tape stripping, discarding the first tape and pooling the subsequent ten. Irradiation was performed with a xenon solar simulator under a controlled dose. The tapes were extracted in 0.01 M HCl and cis‑ and trans‑UCA were quantified by HPLC‑DAD4,5. Isoforms were analyzed separately. Data were log₁₀‑transformed and analyzed using linear mixed models, considering skin condition and phototype as fixed effects and subject as a random effect, with restricted maximum likelihood estimation in Jamovi (GAMLj)6. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: For trans‑UCA, a significant effect of skin condition was observed (p < 0.001), with higher values in SC compared with SCirr and Control (p < 0.001), and no difference between SCirr and Control (p > 0.05). There was no effect of phototype nor phototype × condition interaction, indicating a similar reduction of trans‑UCA after irradiation in both groups. For cis‑UCA, no isolated effect of condition or phototype was observed; however, a significant interaction between phototype and condition was found (p = 0.024). In phototypes I–III, irradiation induced a significant increase in cis‑UCA (p = 0.009), corresponding to approximately 2.7‑fold the baseline values, whereas in phototypes IV–VI no significant increase was observed. These results indicate that UV‑induced formation of cis‑UCA is phototype‑dependent, occurring predominantly in lighter phototypes, while the decrease in trans‑UCA is a general phenomenon, in agreement with the literature7. The optical attenuation promoted by melanin in higher phototypes likely limits additional accumulation of cis‑UCA under the same experimental conditions. CONCLUSIONS: The data indicate that UV‑induced depletion of trans‑UCA occurred consistently across phototypes, whereas cis‑UCA accumulation was phototype‑dependent, occurring predominantly in lighter phototypes under the protocol used. Additionally, total UCA content was not associated with phototype. These findings reinforce that the dynamics of photoisomers in the SC are determined by effective radiation dose and skin pigmentation.

REUSE OF GRAPE POMACE FROM PORTUGUESE WINERIES IN PHYSICAL EXFOLIATING DERMOCOSMETICS: PHYSICOCHEMICAL STABILITY AND SAFETY

Authors

Gabriela Peres Salzedas¹, *, Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto¹, Fabiana Vieira Lima Solino Pessoa², Maria Valéria Robles Velasco¹, Daniel Pecoraro Demarque¹, André Rolim Baby¹

Affiliations

¹ Departamento de Farmácia, Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas, USP, São Paulo, SP, Brasil;

Abstract

The wine industry generates significant volumes of waste that pose environmental risks if improperly disposed of (MELO, 2015). Grape pomace (Vitis vinifera L.), the main by-product of this sector, stands out due to its high concentration of antioxidant bioactive compounds, capable of attenuating damage induced by free radicals, such as skin aging (EMBRAPA, 2018; HUBNER, 2019). Additionally, when dried and ground, grape pomace presents suitable particle size for physical exfoliation, which, through mechanical friction, promotes epidermal cell renewal and the removal of skin impurities, assisting in the management of (photo)aged skin and in the prevention of acne conditions (GARROTE; BONET, 2008). From a circular economy perspective, incorporating this residue into cosmetics combines skin benefits with sustainability and the growing demand for natural products (GUILLEN-ROYO, 2019). OBJECTIVES: To obtain, evaluate preliminary physicochemical stability, and assess the clinical safety of dermocosmetic formulations containing grape pomace powder as a physical exfoliating agent. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Grape pomace from two Portuguese wineries, Cerrado da Porta (Ce) and Carmim (Ca), was dried, ground, and standardized by sieving. Based on a carbomer-based hydrophilic gel, the following formulations were developed: gel (vehicle, placebo), gel with silica microspheres (positive control), gel with Ce grape pomace powder, and gel with Ca grape pomace powder. Characterization included pH value analysis and evaluation of organoleptic properties, performed using a pH meter and subjective description, respectively. Preliminary stability was assessed through centrifugation tests and thermal stress assays in a thermostated water bath. The in vivo safety of the formulations, previously approved by the Ethics Committee of FCF-USP (CAAE: 88334125.0.0000.0067), was analyzed using the Multi Probe Adapter (MPA) system (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH), through Corneometer and Tewameter probes, to measure stratum corneum hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), respectively. Four regions were marked on the participants’ forearms, one for each sample, placebo, and control. In each region, baseline values (T0) of both skin parameters were measured. Then, the formulations (2.0 mg/cm²) were applied with circular movements for one minute by the responsible researcher. Subsequently, the formulations were removed with cotton moistened with water, and the skin was dried with dry cotton. Finally, new measurements with the probes were performed at 30, 60, and 90 minutes (T30, T60, and T90). The experiments were conducted in a randomized manner, in triplicate, with a 95% confidence level (p ≤ 0.05). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: All formulations presented pH values compatible with skin physiology (approximately 5.5), adequate organoleptic characteristics, and satisfactory physicochemical stability under stress conditions. When calculating the average among research participants, hydration values ranged from 32.81 to 35.76 a.u., and TEWL values ranged from 7.71 to 9.35 g/m²/h. Clinical trials demonstrated a favorable safety profile, with no significant changes in TEWL between periods (T0, T30, T60, and T90) for each sample, indicating preservation of barrier function even after exfoliation. Furthermore, at T90, no significant differences were observed among the four analyzed regions, both in terms of TEWL and hydration. CONCLUSIONS: The results of this study demonstrated that exfoliation promoted by grape pomace showed safety comparable to the placebo and the positive control. The reuse of grape pomace proved to be a safe and viable alternative for dermocosmetic application, integrating skin care with sustainability.

ENHANCING THE CHELATING EFFICACY OF AN ANTI‑METAL SHAMPOO THROUGH THE ADDITION OF A WHEAT EXTRACT COMPLEX

Authors

Pedro Marrafa¹, Laura Nakashima¹, Scheila Alves¹, Juliana Amado², Rebeca Gasparin¹,*

Affiliations

¹Hair Care Center – Global Innovation Cosmetic Ingredients - Symrise, Cotia, Brasil; ²Advanced Actives - Symrise, Clichy, França

Abstract

The appearance of a greenish hue in hair after swimming in a pool is generally caused by the absorption of copper‑based algaecides used in water treatment. Bleached or porous hair is particularly affected, resulting in a more intense green tone. This condition is known as chlorotrichosis. Despite its aesthetic impact, effectively removing copper from hair fibers, and consequently eliminating the green discoloration, remains a challenge for the beauty industry. Most active ingredients used are chelating agents, primarily found in professional pre‑ and post‑contamination treatments. Few studies focus on shampoo development, and many of these require up to eight weeks of washing with EDTA‑containing formulations to effectively reduce the green color. OBJECTIVES: This study aimed to enhance the efficacy of a commercial anti‑metal shampoo by adding a complex containing natural wheat extracts. MATERIALS AND METHODS: To reproduce the chlorotrichosis phenomenon under controlled conditions, 0.5 ppm of copper and 40 ppm of chlorine were solubilized in water, and bleached human hair tresses were submerged in the solution for 8 hours under constant stirring. The protocol evaluated the removal of green discoloration using shampoo with and without the added complex. Hair color was measured before and after treatment using a colorimeter with Lab readings. Five tresses per group were analyzed, with five measurements per tress for statistical evaluation. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: When comparing both total color variation and delta a, the shampoo containing 1% of the tested complex demonstrated superior performance relative to the regular shampoo. Increases of 128% and 178% were observed for total color variation and delta a, respectively. The significant improvement in delta a can be associated with more effective copper removal, as copper is responsible for the greenish hue in hair. The wheat extract contained in the tested complex is rich in polysaccharides, small protein fractions, and polar lipids that can compete with copper for damaged keratin binding sites. Moreover, the complex includes glycerin, pentylene glycol, 1,2‑hexanediol, and caprylyl glycol, polyols with multiple hydroxyl (–OH) groups capable of forming hydrogen bonds with keratin, also competing with copper and creating a thin protective layer that may prevent further copper deposition on the hair fiber. These competitive interactions with damaged keratin and hair‑surface lipids, along with potential copper‑chelating effects from the extract constituents, may explain the significant reduction in greenish discoloration observed in bleached hair treated with the shampoo containing the complex. CONCLUSIONS: The addition of 1% of the wheat‑based natural extract complex significantly improved the shampoo’s efficacy in removing the greenish tone caused by copper deposition, outperforming the original product with a visible reduction starting from the fifth wash. The results suggest that the combination of polysaccharides, protein fractions, polar lipids, and polyols enhances copper removal, representing a promising strategy for daily maintenance protocols against chlorotrichosis. To confirm the proposed mechanism, further tests, such as mechanical strength, DSC, and FTIR, may be conducted.

COMPARISON OF SOLVENT-FREE HAIR PROTEIN EXTRACTION TECHNIQUES FOR BCA-BASED QUANTIFICATION

Authors

Pedro Marrafa¹, Laura Nakashima¹, Scheila Alves¹, Juliana Amado², Rebeca Gasparin¹,*

Affiliations

¹Hair Care Center – Global Innovation Cosmetic Ingredients - Symrise, Cotia, Brasil; ²Advanced Actives - Symrise, Clichy, França

Abstract

The quantification of hair proteins using colorimetric methods, such as the modified Lowry (BCA) assay, is widely applied in hair science to assess damage, develop new cosmetic actives, and understand mechanisms of protein loss associated with chemical treatments and external aggressions. Although the BCA method is well-established in the literature for its sensitivity and reproducibility, there is no standardization regarding the most effective protein extraction technique for sample preparation, and it is common to find different protocols among authors. OBJECTIVES: This study aimed to compare three protein extraction techniques without the use of organic solvents to determine which provides the highest efficiency for subsequent quantification using the BCA method. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Five tresses of virgin brown Caucasian hair and five tresses of bleached Caucasian hair were used. From each tress, 0.25 g of fibers were cut into ~1 cm segments, resulting in quintuplicate samples for each group. The samples were placed in conical tubes containing 4 mL of deionized water. Three extraction techniques were compared: (1) thermal extraction in a drying oven at 45 °C for 72 h; (2) centrifugation at 2500 rpm for 4 h; and (3) sonication for 1 h with tubes immersed in an ultrasonic bath. After extraction, the solubilized protein content was quantified using the BCA method, with albumin as the standard. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The results demonstrated that drying-oven extraction yielded the highest protein content for both virgin and bleached hair, with mean values of 0.75 and 5.21 mg/g of hair, respectively. Centrifugation produced intermediate extraction levels (0.32 and 1.52 mg/g), while sonication resulted in the lowest values (0.21 and 0.60 mg/g, respectively). Depending on the fiber type, thermal extraction performed up to 237% better than centrifugation and 760% better than sonication. As expected, bleached hair showed higher protein loss across all techniques. It remains unclear whether the superior performance of the drying oven is primarily due to the thermal effect on the keratin matrix or the long extraction time. Therefore, further studies would be valuable to determine whether time or temperature has a greater influence on the method’s efficiency, especially considering that the long duration hinders or even prevents certain studies from being carried out. CONCLUSIONS: The drying-oven technique was found to be the most efficient among the evaluated methods for extracting proteins intended for BCA quantification. However, its low operational viability highlights the need for future studies that combine high extraction efficiency with shorter processing times, aiming to standardize protocols for hair science research and the development of new cosmetic actives.

STANDARDIZATION OF BLEACHING AND GREENING TESTS IN HAIR TRESSES WITH COLORIMETRIC ANALYSIS

Authors

Karine Mendes da Silva, Laís Tanabe Bomtorim, Vanessa da Silva Freitas

Affiliations

BASF SA

Abstract

Hair bleaching promotes structural changes in the fiber, increasing its porosity and susceptibility to undesirable chromatic deviations, such as greening associated with exposure to swimming pool water containing metallic ions. The evaluation of the efficacy of cosmetic products intended for color protection requires standardized and reproducible experimental methodologies capable of simulating real-use conditions and enabling objective analyses, such as instrumental color assessment using the CIE Lab* system.

In this context, this study proposes the development and application of methodologies for the controlled simulation of greening and the instrumental evaluation of chromatic alterations.

OBJECTIVES

To develop and validate standardized methodologies for hair bleaching, the simulation of hair greening caused by swimming pool water, and the instrumental evaluation of color changes, aiming at their application in comparative studies of hair cosmetic products.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Caucasian human hair tresses were used, previously selected for uniformity. Bleaching was performed according to a standardized protocol using bleaching powder and hydrogen peroxide (40 volumes), followed by washing and standardization with a sodium laureth sulfate solution at 12% active matter.

The greening simulation was conducted by immersing the bleached tresses in a chlorinated swimming pool water solution containing a copper-ion-based algaecide for a controlled period, followed by washing, standardization, and drying under controlled environmental conditions. Hair color changes were evaluated by reflectance spectrophotometry using a DataColor instrument, with measurements performed according to the CIE Lab* system.

For methodological validation, a comparative experimental assay was conducted between untreated tresses and tresses previously treated with a hair cosmetic product, followed by the simulation of exposure to swimming pool water. The hair cosmetic product used in the test was developed by the cosmetic applications laboratory of BASF SA and had been previously subjected to stability testing. The results of chromatic variations in the tresses were analyzed using visual and instrumental methods, according to the previously described protocol.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

The developed methodology enabled the objective characterization of chromatic changes in bleached tresses subjected to swimming pool water simulation. Untreated samples exhibited pronounced greening, whereas tresses previously treated with a cosmetic product showed a lower chromatic shift relative to the reference.

Spectrophotometric analysis using the CIE Lab* system corroborated the visual observations, revealing reduced variations in the colorimetric parameters of the treated samples. The agreement between instrumental data and visual assessment, combined with good reproducibility among samples, confirms the sensitivity and robustness of the method for application in comparative studies and the validation of cosmetic claims.

CONCLUSION

The study proposed and validated an integrated set of experimental methodologies for hair bleaching, the controlled induction of greening, and the instrumental analysis of chromatic variations by spectrophotometry. The methods demonstrated high precision and reproducibility, enabling the objective identification of color changes and the distinction between treated and untreated tresses.

Thus, the proposed approach constitutes a reliable tool for the standardization of laboratory assays and for supporting research and the development of hair cosmetic products.  

EFFICACY AND COSMETOLOGICAL STRATEGIES OF THE INOVAX COSMÉTICOS ANTI-HAIR LOSS LINE: AN INTEGRATED APPROACH TO REDUCING HAIR SHEDDING AND PROMOTING HEALTHY HAIR GROWTH

Authors

Patricia Antonio*

Affiliations

Inovax Cosméticos, São Paulo – Brasil

Abstract

Hair loss is associated with multiple factors, notably oxidative stress and inflammatory processes that compromise the hair follicle cycle. In this context, cosmetology has explored natural active ingredients with proven functional potential, capable of protecting and balancing the scalp. Vinotherapy, based on the use of bioactive compounds from grapes (Vitis vinifera), such as polyphenols and resveratrol, stands out for its potent antioxidant and cell-protective action. When applied to hair cosmetology, this approach contributes to the preservation of the follicular microenvironment, promoting hair vitality and scalp health. The Inovax Cosmetics Anti-Hair Loss Line was developed based on the principles of vinotherapy, combining extracts derived from grapes with functional active ingredients, with the aim of helping to reduce hair loss and strengthen hair.

MRGPRX2 AS AN IMPORTANT MAST CELL RECEPTOR TO TARGET ITCHY SKIN

Authors

Maria Reichenbach* 1; Tilo Biedermann2; Susanne Kaesler2; Lili Baraton3; Holger Joppe1; Martina Herrmann1; Rafael Albuquerque4

Affiliations

1Cosmetic Ingredients Global Innovation, Symrise AG, Holzminden;

2Departamento de Dermatologia e Alergia Biederstein, Faculdade de Medicina, Universidade Técnica de Munique, Munique, Alemanha;

3Cosmetic Ingredients Business Unit Advanced Actives, Symrise, Paris, França;

4Laboratório de Aplicações Brasil - Symrise, Cotia, Brazil;

Abstract

Sensitive skin is a major and growing concern worldwide, with 73% of global consumers reporting that their skin feels more sensitive than it did a few years ago. In market research, consumers who describe themselves as having very sensitive skin often report itchy sensations. As the inflammatory cascade is a key driver of skin sensitivity, recent studies have focused on uncovering the mechanisms behind sensitization pathways and on identifying cosmetic ingredients capable of targeting these mechanisms to reduce skin discomfort. OBJECTIVES: To investigate the Mas-related G-protein coupled receptor X2 (MRGPRX2) as a critical component of mast cell involvement in itch sensation and atopic‑prone skin. Additionally, to evaluate SCA, a patented technology based on a novel oat kernel extract standardized to 200–250 ppm of avenanthramides, as a modulator of skin sensitization through MRGPRX2‑related pathways. METHODS: In vitro assays using primary human skin‑derived and blood‑derived mast cells stimulated with compound 48/80 or Substance P, where the percent reduction in β‑hexosaminidase release was quantified. A histamine‑induced itch prick test was conducted in 10 Caucasian volunteers (1:1 female/male, 18–64 years), with self‑assessment on a 0 – 10 scale over 15 minutes following a single application of 2.5% SCA or placebo to the forearms, applied two hours before itch induction; a well‑known inhibitor of anti‑inflammatory mediator synthesis served as a positive control. In a separate study, two groups of 20 Chinese subjects (18–55 years) with reactive and sensitive skin applied 3% SCA or placebo once daily for 14 days on the full face, with functional symptoms self‑graded using a dermatologist‑supervised Visual Analog Scale (0 – 10). Additionally, C‑Cube® images were captured from three subjects following the same 14‑day facial application protocol with 3% SCA to obtain objective documentation of skin condition improvements. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: MRGPRX2 is highly expressed in both primary mast cells and mast cell lines. Its activation by various natural and synthetic agonists — such as Substance P, cortistatin‑14, and compound 48/80 — was strongly attenuated by SCA, which acts as an antagonist. SCA inhibited calcium influx, ERK phosphorylation, and downstream mast cell degranulation, as determined by hexosaminidase release and LAMP‑1 and CD63 staining. In vivo studies demonstrated that SCA reduces immediate histamine‑induced itching by 45%. After two weeks of use, SCA decreased overall skin discomfort by 20%, based on assessments of itching, burning, heating, tightness, and stinging sensations, while also reducing visible capillaries and red spots. CONCLUSION: This work presents a novel ingredient with potent fast itch‑relieving and long‑term soothing efficacy, able to reduce discomfort in sensitive skin. Additionally, it offers a comprehensive approach to sustainability, as SCA is a natural extract with a high concentration of biologically active molecules.

BLEND OF FUNCTIONAL EMOLLIENTS FOR OPTIMIZED SOLUBILIZATION OF CRYSTALLINE ULTRAVIOLET FILTERS

Authors

Martina Issleib¹, Lars Jung1, Joana Lima2

Affiliations

1Symrise Alemanha, Business Unit Sun Protection, Functionals & Colors - Cosmetic Ingredients, Holzminden, Alemanha; ² Laboratório de Aplicação Brasil - Symrise, Cotia, Brasil.

Abstract

Developing effective, stable and safe sunscreens has become increasingly challenging. While consumers demand higher SPF, regulatory restrictions reduce the use of liquid UV filters, increasing reliance on crystalline filters, which are difficult to solubilize and susceptible to recrystallization. Thus, the need for solubilizers capable of incorporating these filters reliably and ensuring stable formulations is growing. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the efficacy of SSPS, a blend of esters and stollides designed to increase the solubility of crystalline ultraviolet filters. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The solubility of four crystalline UV filters was determined in several individual emollients and blends at two temperatures: 5 °C and 25°C. Each system was observed for 14 days, and the system was considered stable if it did not show visible signs of recrystallization at the end of the period; O/W formulations containing crystalline UV filters were analyzed immediately after production and after four weeks of storage. The samples were examined with an Olympus BX51 microscope (800x magnification) using a DIC (Differential Interference Contrast) filter to detect the presence of crystals; The sensory evaluation was conducted with 11 consumers, who analyzed the sensory profile of the raw materials following a standardized protocol. Each participant evaluated two systems: SSPS and capric/caprylic triglyceride (CCTG) used as a reference. Sensory parameters were examined during application and after 3 minutes, including spreadability, absorption, stickiness, oiliness, softness, velvety feel, perception of care, waxiness, and final sensation on the skin. Participants recorded the sensations on a structured scale, allowing them to construct a comparative radar chart between the two materials. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: SSPS offers better solubility than pure emollients or blends already available on the market, being superior in the solubilization of avobenzone, bemotrizinol, octyltriazone and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate. Compared to CCTG, SSPS facilitates application, does not leave stickiness, gives a soft/silky touch and delivers a cleaner and more comfortable finish. CONCLUSIONS: The SSPS blend is an excellent alternative to conventional emollients on the market to increase the solubility of crystalline UV filters, ensuring the stability of the filter system. In addition, the material has a pleasant sensory to users, favoring the construction of sunscreen formulations with better acceptability by consumers.

SKIN AGING IN THE BRAZILIAN POPULATION: ASSESSING THE DISCRIMINATIVE POTENTIAL OF BIOENGINEERING PLATFORMS

Authors

Alanis Lima da Costa¹, Silas Arandas Monteiro e Silva¹, Gabriela Maria D’Angelo Costa¹*

Affiliations

¹ Natura Cosméticos, Cajamar, Brasil

Abstract

Skin aging is an inevitable and multifactorial biological process influenced by both intrinsic (genetics, chronology) and extrinsic factors (solar exposure, pollution, and lifestyle)¹. In the Brazilian population, characterized by vast miscegenation and diverse phototypes, the clinical manifestations of aging such as wrinkles, spots, and loss of elasticity present specific diagnostic challenges. Traditionally, assessment was based on subjective visual scales². However, the demand for robust scientific evidence in dermocosmetics and dermatological treatments has driven the use of skin bioengineering methods³. Among cutting-edge technologies, VISIA® and PRIMOS® stand out. VISIA® utilizes multispectral photography to capture surface and subsurface skin data, while PRIMOS® (Optical 3D Skin Measurement) is based on digital fringe projection to create high-resolution three-dimensional topographic maps⁴,⁵. Understanding the correlation between these technologies and how each interprets the progression of aging signs across decades is fundamental for diagnostic precision in scientific research. OBJECTIVES: To characterize the skin profile of Brazilian female volunteers across different age groups and to evaluate the correlation between results obtained by VISIA® and PRIMOS® in measuring wrinkles and signs of aging. MATERIAL AND METHODS: A cross-sectional study was conducted with volunteers divided into four age groups: 30+, 45+, 60+, and 70+. Skin assessment was performed in a controlled and standardized environment using multispectral digital image analysis (VISIA®) and 3D optical profilometry (PRIMOS®). Wrinkle parameters were statistically compared between groups to identify the discriminative potential of each device. Clinical trials were conducted in accordance with Resolution 466/12 of the National Health Council on Guidelines and Regulatory Standards for Research Involving Human Beings. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The results demonstrated that the PRIMOS® device possesses greater accuracy and discriminative potential for diagnosing skin aging, being capable of detecting statistically significant differences as early as between the 30+ and 45+ groups. VISIA®, although confirming significant differences between ages, proved more limited, grouping the 60+ and 70+ cohorts with more similar results. Correlation analysis between the two devices revealed a positive but weak association (r ≈ 0.29), indicating that the methods capture different nuances of cutaneous morphology. The low correlation between PRIMOS® and VISIA® suggests that, while both identify aging progression, they should not be used interchangeably for absolute diagnostic purposes. PRIMOS® proved superior in differentiating aging in early stages (30–45 years), whereas VISIA® appears more suitable for longitudinal comparative assessments (pre- and post-treatment) rather than defining precise age-related scores. The similarity of results in groups over 60 years for both devices indicates a stabilization or saturation of clinical signs measurable by these technologies in these ranges, making other complementary biomarkers, such as elasticity (Cutometer®) or dermal density (Ultrasound), recommended for further differentiation. CONCLUSIONS: Signs of aging intensify with age, as proven by both methods. However, the weak correlation between them reinforces the superiority of PRIMOS® as the gold standard for wrinkle measurement due to its greater statistical power in differentiating between age groups.

ANTIOXIDANT ISOPRENOIDS OF BIXA ORELLANA L.: BRAZILIAN BIODIVERSITY IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS

Authors

Nicole Corrêa Cruciol¹, Diego Rockenbach Dias¹, Luiz Henrique Santana Martins¹, Weslley Aparecido Vicente Luiz¹, Briani Gisele Bigotto¹, Audrey Alesandra Stinghen Garcia Lonni1, Maria Antonia Pedrine Colabone Celligoi¹

Affiliations

¹ Universidade Estadual de Londrina (UEL), Londrina, Brasil.

Abstract

Oxidative stress induced by reactive oxygen species, one of the main cutaneous homeostasis physiopathological processes, frequently associated with premature aging to the inception of chronic inflammation. This redox imbalance, compounded with limited endogenous antioxidant capabilities, causes cumulative epidermal damage. Indeed, the search for effective and safe plant-derived antioxidant agents became a strategic approach to the development of cosmeceutical formulations. In this context, annatto (Bixa orellana L.), a native species to this biodiversity, stands out as a promising source of bioactive compounds. Its extract is composed of carotenoids (bixin and norbixin), in addition to other isoprenoid compounds (tocotrienols and geranylgeraniol), which contribute to protection against oxidative damage. OBJECTIVES: This study aims to evaluate the antioxidant capacity of an extract made from B. orellana L. (annatto) seeds using the ABTS•+ radical scavenging assay, correlating the observed activity with its bioactive compounds, such as tocotrienols and geranylgeraniol. The findings are expected to support the development of effective and sustainable cosmetics formulations, in line with elevating Brazilian biodiversity. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Seeds of B. orellana underwent extraction in a heated alkaline solution (60 °C) and were subsequently neutralized with citric acid to reach a final pH of 5,6. The solution was centrifuged, and the supernatant was collected to the determine antioxidant activity using the ABTS•+ method, employing a Vitamin E (Trolox) standard curve (12.5–100 μg/mL; λ = 730 nm). The extract was evaluated at concentrations ranging from 0,25% to 3,00% (v/v). Statistical analyses were performed using GraphPad Prism® version 9.0. Data are expressed as mean ± standard deviation (p < 0.05). The quantification of δ- and γ-tocotrienols and geranylgeraniol in oily matrices were carried out using HPLC–UV, compared with commercial standards. Samples (0.10 g) were extracted with methanol, homogenized, filtered through a 0.2 μm membrane, and analyzed using a C18 column maintained at 40 °C. Tocotrienols were analyzed under isocratic elution using acetonitrile/methanol/acidified water (75:8:17, v/v/v), with a flow rate of 0.5 mL min⁻¹ with UV detection at 296 nm. For geranylgeraniol, methanol/50 mM ammonium acetate (80:20, v/v) was used as the mobile phase, at a flow rate of 0.6 mL min⁻¹, with detection at 210 nm. All experiments were performed in triplicate. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The B. orellana extract inhibited the ABTS•⁺ radical from 21.1% (0.75% v/v) to 89.5% (3.00% v/v), exhibiting a dose-dependent profile (R² = 0.9436). Conversion to Trolox equivalents (8.36–96.77 μg/mL), based on the calibration curve Y = −0.0046x + 0.5235, confirmed high antioxidant activity, with an EC₅₀ of 1.324% (v/v). Inhibition values greater than 50% were observed from concentrations of 1.50% onward. HPLC–UV analysis indicated average contents of total tocotrienols of 11.79 ± 0.04% and geranylgeraniol of 36.82 ± 0.09% in the analyzed extract. These compounds exhibited enhanced antioxidant efficiency, attributed to the presence of unsaturated isoprenoid chains, favoring radical interception and neutralization within the lipid bilayer. Geranylgeraniol may further enhance cellular cytoprotection by acting as a precursor in the mevalonate pathway, contributing to coenzyme Q10 biosynthesis. The low α-tocopherol content solidifies the antioxidant potential of annatto in mitigating oxidative and inflammatory stress. CONCLUSION: The obtained results confirm the antioxidant potential of B. orellana and establish its phytochemical composition as a functional driver of antioxidant activity. The predominance of geranylgeraniol, together with the tocotrienol profile, positions annatto as a bioactive matrix of technological interest, with promising applicability in cosmeceutical systems aimed at protecting the skin against oxidative stress.

INSTRUMENTAL EVALUATION OF THE SHORT-TERM MOISTURIZING POTENTIAL OF A NIACINAMIDE SERUM

Authors

Letícia Neves Ferraz1, Melissa Barbosa Souza1, Julianne Soares Jardim Lacerda Batista1, Fabiana Vieira Lima Solino Pessoa1

Affiliations

¹ Universidade Federal do Espírito Santo, São Mateus, Espírito Santo, Brasil

Abstract

Proper skin hydration is essential for maintaining skin health and contributes to softness, flexibility, and elasticity1. Niacinamide is a multifunctional active ingredient with skin barrier–restoring properties and good tolerability, widely used in cosmetic formulations2. Objective: To develop a topical serum containing 5% niacinamide and to evaluate in vivo, the short term values of transepidermal water loss(TEWL), hydration and the pH value, by instrumental analysis. Materials and Methods: The formulation was composed of Niacinamide (except in the vehicle), glycerin, ethoxydiglycol, xanthan gum, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin and EDTA. Samples of the formula were centrifuged for stability testing Instrumental evaluations were conducted using the Multi Probe Adapter MPA 6® (Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH, Germany) with probes for skin pH, transepidermal water loss, and hydration. The study was approved by the local Ethics Committee(CAAE nº 87890325.8.0000.5063). Efficacy was evaluated in healthy participants(n=19) using a randomized study, with serum and vehicle applied to different areas of the forearm. TEWL, hydration, and skin pH were measured before and after application, at 30,60,90 and 120 minutes. For the data analysis, was used the statistical software Minitab®,version x (Minitab LLC, State College, PA, USA), applying analysis of variance(ANOVA) followed by Tukey’s post test, with a significance level of 5%(p<0,05). Based on the mean values, the ratio between post-application and baseline measurements was calculated(Tn/T0). Results: Both the serum and the vehicle reduced TEWL compared to baseline, with a decreasing effect over time and ratios < 1. At 120 minutes (0.5852 ± 0.1352 and 0.6193 ± 0.1028 for the serum and vehicle, respectively), the formulations showed a significant reduction (p < 0.05) compared to 30 minutes (0.7740 ± 0.2345 and 0.8255 ± 0.2928 for the serum and vehicle, respectively). However, no significant differences were observed between formulations at equivalent time points, although both formulations showed positive effects on transepidermal water loss. Studies indicate that the barrier repair effects of niacinamide occur after continuous treatment3,4. T, the serum promoted significantly higher hydration (p < 0.05) compared to the vehicle at 30 (1.2266 ± 0.0872 and 1.0255 ± 0.0505), 60 (1.1688 ± 0.1063 and 1.0344 ± 0.0670), and 90 minutes (1.0986 ± 0.0651 and 1.0205 ± 0.0618), with ratios > 1. By the end of the study, both formulations showed similar effects, suggesting that the acute improvement in hydration may be associated with the humectant effect of the vehicle, since glycerin present in the formulations promotes rapid hydration by attracting and retaining water in the stratum corneum⁵. Nevertheless, both formulations resulted in benefits for skin hydration. Skin pH values remained close to baseline levels, with no marked differences between the serum and the vehicle throughout the study, reflecting good biocompatibility of the formulations.Conclusion: The serum containing niacinamide showed statistically similar results to the vehicle during short-term evaluation, which may be related to the limited follow-up period, as the effects of niacinamide on barrier function are described as cumulative. Studies with longer follow-up periods are required to assess its long-term benefits.

DEVELOPMENT OF HAIR TONIC WITH PLANT EXTRACTS OF ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS L. AND SOLIDAGO CHILENSIS MEYEN.

Authors

Jessica Andrade de Oliveira1, Rangel Eduardo Batista1, Júlio Cézar Borella2;

Monica Maruno2, Josinete Salvador Alves2.

Affiliations

1 Estudante (Iniciação Científica) do Centro Universitário Barão de Mauá, Curso de Farmácia, Ribeirão Preto, São Paulo, Brasil.

2 Docente do Centro Universitário Barão de Mauá, Curso de Farmácia, Ribeirão Preto, São Paulo, Brasil.

Abstract

Hair tonic is a cosmetic form widely used in the topical application of scalp care products, which, when properly developed, can be easy to apply and well accepted by consumers. Several approaches are used in the management of alopecia and, in this context, topical cosmetic formulations have been used to support hair care. The formulation of this type of product involves the careful selection of the vehicle and compatible components to ensure physicochemical stability and suitability for cosmetic use. The cosmetic market has shown growing interest in incorporating plant-based active ingredients into hair formulations. In this context, extracts of Rosmarinus officinalis L. and Solidago chilensis Meyen have been used in cosmetic products due to their phytochemical profiles, characterized by the presence of phenolic metabolites and flavonoids, associated with applications in scalp care. OBJECTIVES: To develop and characterize a hair tonic for cosmetic scalp care, with stable formulations suitable for cosmetic use containing extracts from these plants, with an emphasis on the characterization of the extracts, their physical-chemical compatibility with the formulation, and the stability and cosmetic applicability of the final product. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Extracts of R. officinalis L. and S. chilensis Meyen were obtained separately by static maceration at a ratio of 1:5 (w/v) using a hydroglycolic system (propylene glycol:water, 1:1) for seven days, with daily stirring. The extracts were evaluated for physicochemical parameters, including pH, relative density, dry residue, thin-layer chromatography profile, and flavonoid quantification. Hair tonic formulations were developed individually for each extract, based on an aqueous fluid system containing low-concentration hydroxyethylcellulose, used as a hydrophilic polymer without promoting gel formation, and polysorbate as a surfactant. Physical-chemical compatibility tests, macroscopic evaluation, determination of pH, density, loss on drying, and preliminary stability tests under different temperature conditions were performed. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The hydroglycolic extracts of both species presented a slightly acidic pH, density compatible with the solvent system, and the presence of phenolic compounds, confirmed by qualitative chromatographic analysis, with flavonoid concentrations ranging from 0.03% to 0.05% (m/m). The individually developed formulations showed good homogeneity, a clear appearance, and viscosity compatible with fluid systems intended for application to the scalp. It was observed that adjusting the concentration of the hydrophilic polymer and using the surfactant favored the aesthetic and physicochemical stability of the formulations, even in the presence of plant extracts. Although the physicochemical behavior of the formulations was similar, the extracts differed in their phytochemical profile, with a predominance of phenolic acids in R. officinalis and a higher relative content of flavonoids in S. chilensis, indicating complementary potential for cosmetic applications. CONCLUSIONS: Hair tonic formulations containing extracts of Rosmarinus officinalis L. and Solidago chilensis Meyen, evaluated separately, showed satisfactory initial stability, good physicochemical compatibility, and characteristics suitable for cosmetic use, meeting the proposed objectives. The distinct phytochemical profiles of the extracts suggest complementary potential, indicating as a prospect for future studies the evaluation of the association of these species in the same formulation, aiming at the development of hair products with a more comprehensive approach to scalp care.

EVALUATION OF FRAGRANCE RETENTION IN LOW-ENERGY EMULSIFIABLE SYSTEM

Authors

Nicole Tiemi Inoue¹*, Kathylen Vitória F. dos Santos¹,Patrícia S. Lopes¹, Vânia Rodrigues Leite e Silva¹, Newton Andréo Filho¹.

Affiliations

1Programa de Pós graduação em Ciências Farmacêuticas, Universidade Federal de São Paulo, São Paulo/ SP, Brasil.

Abstract

Brazil’s prominent position in the global fragrance market ranking, combined with the high consumer demand for products with greater olfactory durability, reinforces the need for industry and researchers to develop strategies to overcome challenges related to fragrance volatility, functionality, and applicability. Prolonged release through nanoemulsions and microencapsulation therefore emerges as a possibility to control the durability of fragrances and aromas. Encapsulation consists of a technique capable of forming a polymeric matrix between the active compound, located in the core, and the coating material, thus preserving the active’s characteristics and allowing the protection and conservation of its physicochemical properties. In this context, the present study proposed the development and evaluation of three formulations in order to compare the olfactory behavior of the fragrance incorporated into different carrier systems. The following systems were proposed, in which the base surfactant was varied: 1) phospholipid-based nanoemulsion; 2) lauryl glucoside-based nanoemulsion; 3) sodium stearoyl glutamate-based microparticle. All systems were obtained using a low-energy method, by microemulsification with phase inversion, using different proportions between the oil phase and the aqueous phase. The systems were evaluated according to particle size, polydispersity index (PDI), and olfactory perception over a period of 48 hours. Subsequently, the fragrance-containing formulations were applied to scent strips at standardized concentrations and evaluated over 48 hours, in order to compare the olfactory performance among the different developed systems. The formulations presented an average polydispersity index (PDI) of 0.240, 0.549, and 0.382, respectively, reflecting the level of uniformity in particle size distribution. The proposed micrometric system (formulation 3) presented an average particle size of 249 μm, whereas the nanoparticulate systems (formulations 1 and 2) presented average particle sizes of 238.6 nm and 254.1 nm, respectively. Based on the temporal profile test of olfactory intensity, it was observed that the systems with smaller particle size showed better fragrance retention over time, demonstrating greater potential to prolong olfactory perception, without variation in intensity. Therefore, based on the preliminary tests, it was verified that it is possible to obtain particulate systems using the low-energy method, capable of sustaining fragrances for a prolonged period. This method allows feasibility for industrial scale, and the choice of materials enables the development of more sustainable and innovative cosmetics.

CUTANEOUS BIOENGINEERING APPLIED TO IN VIVO EVALUATION OF FORMULATIONS CONTAINING THERMAL WATER

Authors

Isabella de Carvalho Bragiotti¹,*, Fábia Rafaella Silva Alves¹, Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto¹, Fabiana Vieira Lima Solino Pessoa2, Maria Valéria Robles Velasco¹, Gabriel Rocha Martins¹, André Rolim Baby¹

Affiliations

¹ Departamento de Farmácia, Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas, USP, São Paulo, SP, Brasil; 2 Departamento de Ciências da Saúde/Curso de Farmácia, UFES, São Mateus, ES, Brasil

Abstract

The skin functions as a protective barrier, with the stratum corneum responsible for the regulation of hydration and the prevention of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (HADGRAFT; LANE, 2009). Thermal spring waters (TSWs), of subterranean origin and heated by geothermal processes, are rich in mineral salts and trace elements and have been associated with dermatological benefits and the maintenance of barrier homeostasis (FIORAVANTI et al., 2011; NASERMOADDELI; KAGAMIMORI, 2005). In view of the incorporation of TSWs into dermocosmetic formulations, investigating their effects on these biophysical parameters through in vivo skin bioengineering assays is warranted (CHAVES et al., 2014). In this context, the selection of the cosmetic vehicle exerts a direct influence on the bioavailability and efficacy of the active ingredient and may consequently impact the clinical outcomes observed (BARNES et al., 2021). OBJECTIVES: To evaluate, through noninvasive skin bioengineering assays, the effects of dermocosmetic formulations in gel and emulsion forms containing TSW on skin surface hydration and TEWL parameters. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The Água Termal-Águas Mornas, Santa Catarina, was used in this investigation. Four formulations were evaluated: an O/W emulsion containing distilled water (control emulsion), an emulsion containing TSW, a gel containing distilled water (control gel), and a gel containing TSW. The in vivo study was conducted with nine participants aged over 18 years, of both sexes, and different phototypes. Studies involving human participants were carried out in accordance with the Declaration of Helsinki and current ethical standards, following approval by the FCF-USP Research Ethics Committee (CAAE: 88334125.0.0000.0067). Samples were applied to the volar forearm region at 2.0 mg/cm² on previously delimited and randomized sites. Measurements of superficial hydration and TEWL were performed before application (T0) and after 30, 60, and 120 minutes using a Corneometer CM 825 and a Tewameter TM Hex, respectively. Statistical analysis was performed using ANOVA followed by Fisher’s test, adopting a 95% confidence level. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: Baseline values of superficial hydration and TEWL did not differ among study participants. At 30, 60, and 120 min after application, all samples promoted an increase in superficial hydration relative to baseline (p ≤ 0.05). The highest mean hydration values were observed at 30 min for the emulsion with TSW and at 60 and 120 min for the gels, with no significant differences between the gels. The transient nature of the moisturizing effect observed for the emulsion may be related to evaporation of the aqueous phase and the immediate availability of ions, or to salt crystallization (BARNES et al., 2021; TARNOWSKA et al., 2020). All formulations reduced TEWL from 30 min after application onward (p ≤ 0.05), with the lowest value observed at 120 min for the gel with TSW. This effect may be attributed both to the presence of sodium (Na⁺), which in aqueous media exhibits water-binding capacity (TACHEAU et al., 2018), and to the carbomer structure of the formulation, which organizes into a three-dimensional network capable of retaining water through hydrogen bonding (FRESNO; RAMÍREZ; JIMÉNEZ, 2002; MIAS et al., 2024). This organization may favor ion retention and homogeneous distribution, contributing to the strengthening of barrier function and highlighting the influence of the vehicle on the availability and efficacy of this class of active ingredient (TARNOWSKA et al., 2020). CONCLUSIONS: Formulations containing TSW promoted increased superficial hydration and reduced TEWL, indicating an improvement in skin barrier function. The results reinforce that the appropriate selection of the dermocosmetic vehicle is important for optimizing the functional performance of this product category.

NANOTECHNOLOGICAL HYDROGEL CONTAINING CURCUMIN AND RESVERATROL: EVALUATION OF ANTI-INFLAMMATORY POTENTIAL FOR DERMATOLOGICAL APPLICATIONS

Authors

Daniela Pastorim Vaiss1,2, Débora Cristine Chrisostomo Dias 1,2, Virginia Campello Yurgel 1, Camila de Oliveira Vian 1,2, Ledilege Cucco Porto 3, Bibiana Franzen Matte4, Heloiuse Richardt Medeiros4, Cristiana Lima Dora1,2*

Affiliations

¹ Laboratório de Nanotecnologia, Universidade Federal do Rio Grande-FURG, Rio Grande 96203-900, RS, Brasil;

² Programa de Pós-Graduação em Ciências da Saúde, Universidade Federal do Rio Grande-FURG, Rio Grande 96203-900, RS, Brasil;

³ ALKBIO Cosmetic Technology, Florianopolis 88030-902, SC, Brasil;

4 Laboratory of the Biotechnology, Startup Núcleo Vitro, Porto Alegre 91040-600, Brasil

Abstract

Inflammatory skin diseases remain a technological and therapeutic challenge due to limited skin penetration, instability, and reduced efficacy of conventional topical formulations. Natural compounds such as curcumin and resveratrol exhibit well-documented antioxidant and dermatological potential; however, their topical application is hindered by poor solubility and low bioavailability. In this context, nanotechnology combined with semisolid matrices, such as hydrogels, represents a promising strategy to improve stability, controlled release, and cutaneous applicability. OBJECTIVES: This study aimed to develop a nanotechnological hydrogel containing lipid nanocarriers co-encapsulating curcumin and resveratrol and to evaluate its in vitro anti-inflammatory potential. MATERIAL E METHODS: Lipid nanocarriers were produced by high-pressure homogenization using biocompatible lipids and surfactants, and formulation optimization was performed using a 2⁴⁻¹ fractional factorial design. Physicochemical characterization included particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential, and pH. Drug content and encapsulation efficiency were determined by HPLC. The optimized formulation was incorporated into a hyaluronic acid-xanthan gum hydrogel and evaluated for stability, viscosity, homogeneity, and the in vitro release profile.

Anti-inflammatory activity was assessed using the NV Skin reconstructed human skin model with imiquimod-induced psoriatic inflammation, and gene expression of inflammatory and skin barrier markers was quantified by RT-qPCR. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The nanotechnological hydrogel exhibited a mean particle size of approximately 250 nm, low polydispersity (PDI < 0.2), high negative zeta potential, and a pH suitable for topical application. Sustained release of the bioactive compounds was observed for up to 72 h, with a higher initial release of resveratrol compared to curcumin. In the NV Skin model, the hydrogel containing nanoencapsulated curcumin and resveratrol significantly reduced the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines compared to non-encapsulated actives.CONCLUSION: Overall, the developed nanotechnological hydrogel demonstrated appropriate physicochemical properties, prolonged release, and relevant in vitro anti-inflammatory performance, indicating its potential for dermocosmetic applications targeting inflammatory skin conditions.

BIOSURFACTANT OBTAINED FROM SUGARCANE FOR COSMETIC APPLICATION

Authors

Vieira, Janailda da Silva1; Cornélio, Melânia L2; Melo, Sharline Florentino3

Affiliations

1 Universidade Federal da Paraíba, João Pessoa, Brasil; 2 Universidade Federal da Paraíba, João Pessoa, Brasil; 3 Universidade Federal da Paraíba, João Pessoa, Brasil

Abstract

Biosurfactants are amphiphilic compounds produced through the fermentation of substrates by microorganisms, offering several benefits such as high cleaning efficiency, emulsification and foam-forming capacity, as well as good performance as dispersing agents. Due to their biodegradability and low environmental impact, biosurfactants have emerged as sustainable alternatives to synthetic surfactants widely used in the cosmetic industry, meeting the growing demand for safer and more environmentally friendly products. OBJECTIVES: This study aimed to produce biosurfactants through the fermentation of sugarcane juice using the microorganism Bacillus pumilus, focusing on the evaluation of their potential application in cosmetic formulations. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Sugarcane juice was obtained from a local market and subsequently diluted to a concentration of 20 g/L of total reducing sugars. The fermentation process was carried out on an orbital shaker maintained at 34 °C and 200 rpm. After fermentation, biosurfactant precipitation was performed using absolute ethanol at a 1:3 (v/v) ratio.

To characterize the fermented broth and the concentrated biosurfactant, analyses of pH, total soluble solids (°Brix), proteins, lipids, reducing and non-reducing sugars, ash content, emulsification index, surface tension, and microbiological analysis were conducted. Additionally, two cosmetic products containing the biosurfactant were developed: a facial foam and a facial serum. The stability of the formulations was evaluated using four samples stored under different conditions: room temperature, refrigeration (3 °C), light exposure, and incubation in a bacteriological oven at 54 °C. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The results indicated that the produced biosurfactant is viable for cosmetic application, with minor variations in physicochemical properties. Physicochemical analyses showed a pH of 6.76 for the fermented broth and 7.71 for the concentrated biosurfactant. Total soluble solids were 1.7 °Brix for the fermented broth and 5.4 °Brix for the concentrate.

The emulsification index using soybean oil was 44.44% for the fermented broth and 57.14% for the concentrate, demonstrating an improvement in emulsifying capacity after biosurfactant concentration. The surface tension of the fermented broth was 66.41 dyn/cm, evidencing the efficiency of the fermentation process in biosurfactant production. Although the emulsification index did not fully surpass the performance of commercial raw materials, the biosurfactant showed competitive results, particularly considering its ecological and sustainable profile. The facial foam formulation presented an initial pH of 6.45 and viscosity of 4.0 mPa·s, while the facial serum showed a pH of 6.57 and viscosity of 199.8 mPa·s. The formulations maintained satisfactory stability under the different storage conditions evaluated. CONCLUSIONS: It can be concluded that the biosurfactant produced from the fermentation of sugarcane juice by Bacillus pumilus shows promising potential as a sustainable alternative for the cosmetic industry. Despite challenges related to process yield and scalability, the obtained results demonstrate technical and functional feasibility, reinforcing the possibility of applying this biosurfactant in cosmetic formulations with reduced environmental impact.

DEVELOPMENT OF A PRO-AGING FACIAL SERUM WITH NATURAL ACTIVE INGREDIENTS FROM BRAZILIAN BIODIVERSITY

Authors

Bianca Albuquerque Vogel Silva²; Julia Borin Silva¹; Lara Borges Maciel Ribeiro² Laura Aparecida Pereira Santos²; Raquel Nunes de Oliveira²; Thamires Andressa Marcelino²; Orientadora: Prof. Dra. Patricia Antonio

Affiliations

Instituto Racine, São Paulo – Brasil

Abstract

Skin aging is a natural physiological process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, such as metabolic changes, oxidative stress, and environmental exposure. In this context, facial serums stand out as high-performance cosmetic vehicles due to their high concentration of active ingredients and rapid skin absorption. Concurrently, a shift is observed in the cosmetic industry discourse, with the traditional concept of anti-aging being replaced by pro-aging approaches, which emphasize skin longevity and functionality. This study describes the development of a cosmetic facial serum aligned with this perspective, using active ingredients derived from Brazilian biodiversity, focusing on efficacy, safety, and sustainability. OBJECTIVES: The primary objective of this study was to develop a high-performance cosmetic facial serum with hydrating, antioxidant, and skin health-promoting actions. Specific objectives included the selection of safe and effective raw materials, the development of the formulation at laboratory scale, and the proposal of strategies for assessing physicochemical and microbiological stability, as well as defining guidelines for potential future industrial-scale production. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The facial serum formulation was developed at laboratory scale in accordance with the principles of Good Manufacturing Practices applicable to cosmetic products, as established by the Brazilian Health Regulatory Agency (ANVISA) Resolution RDC No. 48, of October 25, 2013. Plant- and biotechnology-derived raw materials were employed, including resveratrol, vitamin E, extracts of açaí (Euterpe oleracea), passion fruit (Passiflora edulis), cucumber (Cucumis sativus), algae, blackjack (Bidens pilosa), tucumã oil (Astrocaryum vulgare), and andiroba oil (Carapa guianensis), as well as biomimetic agents selected based on their antioxidant, hydrating, and skin health-promoting properties. Additionally, methodological guidelines were established for the future assessment of the formulation's physicochemical and microbiological stability, considering parameters such as appearance, pH, odor, homogeneity, and behavior under temperature variations, with the aim of supporting subsequent validation and industrial scale-up steps. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The developed formulation presented a viscous gel-like appearance, characteristic odor, and slightly yellow coloration, as well as a light texture, rapid absorption, and good spreadability, desirable features for facial serums. Laboratory evaluation showed a pH of 5.50, compatible with the skin's physiological pH, and a viscosity of approximately 2,500 cP, providing appropriate fluidity and favorable cosmetic sensory properties. The results indicated that the physicochemical properties were maintained over the evaluated period, suggesting compatibility between the actives and the cosmetic base. The selection of ingredients with proven antioxidant, hydrating, and dermal function-stimulating activity reinforces the product's potential to promote skin health and longevity. Moreover, the use of actives derived from Brazilian biodiversity adds scientific, market, and sustainable value to the product, aligning it with contemporary trends in the cosmetic market. CONCLUSIONS: The development of the facial serum demonstrated technical and conceptual feasibility, resulting in a stable, safe formulation aligned with the pro-aging movement. The product shows potential to contribute to maintaining skin integrity while respecting natural skin aging. The results indicate that the serum can be appropriately scaled for industrial production, positioning it as an innovative proposal in the conscious, high-performance dermocosmetic market, with competitive potential nationally, driven by the appreciation of Brazilian biodiversity and commitment to sustainability.

INVESTIGATION OF THE BIOLOGICAL EFFECTS OF MELATONIN ON HUMAN EPITHELIAL AND FIBROBLASTIC CELLS

Authors

Ranna Batista Wanzeler¹,²,*, Beatriz Cruz Bonato¹, Jessica Lopes dos Reis¹,³, Wanderson Romao¹, Márcio Fronza¹,⁴, Herllon Karllos Athaydes Kerr¹,², Vitor Cezar Broetto Pegoretti¹, Marcella Porto Tavares¹,²

Affiliations

¹Instituto Federal do Espírito Santo - IFES, Vila Velha, Brasil; ²Programa de Pós-Graduação em Bioquímica, Universidade Federal do Espírito Santo (UFES), Vitória, Brasil; ³Programa de Pós-Graduação Mestrado Profissional em Química - PROFQUI, Vila Velha, Brasil, ⁴Programa de Pós-Graduação em Ciências Farmacêuticas - UVV, Vila Velha, Brasil

Abstract

The cosmetic sector has shown significant growth in recent decades, driven by scientific advances and increasing concern for health, aesthetics, and well-being¹. Beyond hygiene, cosmetics play an important role in self-esteem and mental health, which intensifies the demand for innovative, effective, and safe products. In this context, the incorporation of new active ingredients with proven biological potential becomes essential. Melatonin stands out as a promising compound for topical cosmetic application due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and cytoprotective properties²–⁶. Although it is mainly known for its role in regulating the circadian cycle, recent studies indicate its involvement in skin-related processes, such as tissue regeneration and cellular protection⁷,⁸. Despite growing scientific interest, melatonin is not yet authorized as a cosmetic ingredient in Brazil⁹, which reinforces the need for studies that evaluate its mechanisms of action and safety in human skin cells, supporting future regulatory discussions and innovative applications. Therefore, this project is justified by contributing to the advancement of knowledge regarding the effects of melatonin on human skin cells, providing experimental evidence that may support future applications in the biomedical, pharmaceutical, or cosmetic fields. OBJECTIVE: To investigate the effects of melatonin on cell viability, inflammatory response, and wound-healing potential in human dermal fibroblast cells (BJ) and human keratinocyte cell lines (HaCaT) through in vitro assays. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Human BJ (dermal fibroblasts) and HaCaT (keratinocytes) cell lines were used, cultured in DMEM supplemented with fetal bovine serum and antibiotics, and maintained at 37 °C and 5% CO₂. Melatonin was obtained through laboratory fractionation of commercial tablets and compared to a standard solution as a positive control, while ethanol was used as a negative control. Cytotoxicity was assessed using the metabolic cell viability assay (MTT)¹⁰, with determination of the IC₅₀. Cell wound-healing capacity was analyzed using the scratch assay¹¹, with quantification of the injured area over time by image analysis. Inflammatory cytokine quantification¹² was performed by multiparametric flow cytometry. Statistical analyses were conducted using one-way ANOVA, considering p < 0.05 as statistically significant. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: Melatonin treatment is expected to exert beneficial effects on BJ and HaCaT cell lines, reflected in maintained cellular metabolic viability without induction of cytotoxicity, indicating its safety for cosmetic application. In the wound-healing assay, a possible acceleration of lesion closure at non-cytotoxic concentrations is anticipated, suggesting a positive effect on tissue repair processes. Additionally, cytokine quantification by flow cytometry is expected to reveal an immunomodulatory profile, characterized by reduced expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines and increased expression of anti-inflammatory cytokines. CONCLUSION: Taken together, these results may contribute to a better understanding of the biological effects of melatonin on skin cells, highlighting its cytoprotective potential as well as its ability to modulate inflammatory and oxidative processes, thereby reinforcing its applicability as a cosmetic active ingredient supported by scientific evidence.

NATURAL PIGMENTS FROM AMAZONIAN WOOD RESIDUES: BIOLOGICAL SAFETY AND COSMETIC POTENTIAL

Authors

Deliane dos Santos Soares¹, Elycia Manoelle dos Santos Pinheiro2, Erivelton Gama Rêgo3, Daiane Gabriele Souza Ribeiro2, Luana Santos Figueira 2, Luanne Pereira dos Santos 2, Vera Lucia Borges Isaac4, Kariane Mendes Nunes¹, Gabriela Bianchi Dos Santos1.

Affiliations

¹ Programa de Mestrado em Ciências da Saúde – PPGCSA - Universidade Federal do Oeste do Pará, Santarém, Pará

2Bacharelado em Farmácia - Universidade Federal do Oeste do Pará, Santarém, Pará

3Bacharelado em Engenharia Florestal - Universidade Federal do Oeste do Pará, Santarém, Pará

4 Universidade Estadual Paulista "Júlio de Mesquita Filho" – Araraquara, São Paulo

Abstract

Circular bioeconomy has gained prominence as a strategy for integrating technological development, environmental sustainability, and income generation, particularly in the Amazon region. In this context, the reuse of wood residues is a promising approach to reduce environmental impacts and add value to industrial by-products. Residues from Amazonian species may serve as sources of bioactive compounds and natural pigments with potential applications in sustainable cosmetic products. However, for their safe use, physicochemical and toxicological characterization studies are required. OBJECTIVE: Characterize pigments obtained from wood residues of Amazonian species and evaluate their biological safety profile, aiming thepotential use in cosmetic products. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Wood residues from Dipteryx odorata (cumaru) and Manilkara huberi (maçaranduba) were subjected to milling, ethanolic extraction by percolation, and subsequent drying. The resulting pigments were characterized for yield, solubility, pH, solid content, phenolic compounds, total flavonoids, and sun protection factor (SPF), the latter determined using the Mansur et al. method. Biological evaluation was performed through cell viability and safety assays using the MTT dye in adult human dermal fibroblasts (HDFa) and immortalized human keratinocytes (HaCaT), at concentrations ranging from 1 to 0.015 mg/mL. Additionally, eye irritation assessment was conducted using a short-term exposure assay in rabbit corneal epithelial cells (SIRC, ATCC CL-60). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The pigments showed yields of 5.5% for Manilkara huberi (maçaranduba) and 2.12% for Dipteryx odorata (cumaru), with a high solid content (97.33%) and physicochemical properties compatible with cosmetic applications, including a near-neutral pH (6.6) and adequate solubility in ethanol and methanol. Both pigments exhibited in vitro photoprotective potential. The D. odorata (cumaru) pigment presented higher total flavonoid and phenolic contents (60.5 ± 19.8 and 26.6 ± 0.08, respectively), as well as a higher SPF value (9.33), whereas the M. huberi pigment showed total flavonoid and phenolic contents of 22.5 ± 9.6 and 12 ± 0.25, respectively, and an SPF of 7.7. The cell viability assay, a dose-dependent effect (1–0.015 mg/mL) was observed. M. huberi pigment showed significant cytotoxicity (p < 0.05) at higher concentrations (> 0.25 mg/mL; IC₅₀ ≅ 0.17 mg/mL), with partial recovery of cell viability at concentrations ≤ 0.125 mg/mL (viability = 65.6%), not demonstrating an adequate biocompatibility profile in skin cells (HDFa and HaCaT), and was further classified as highly irritating in the eye irritation assay. In contrast, the D. odorata pigment exhibited a superior safety profile, maintaining high cell viability (> 76.5%) at 0.5 mg/mL, with an approximate IC₅₀ of 0.8 mg/mL for the HaCaT cell line, and was classified as non-irritant in the ocular assay. CONCLUSION: The results demonstrated that wood residues are promising sources of natural pigments with potential cosmetic applications. Physicochemical characterization associated with in vitro evaluation indicated that the cumaru pigment presents a more favorable biological safety profile for cosmetic use, whereas the maçaranduba pigment, despite its limitations regarding skin biocompatibility, may have potential for applications in other industrial fields such as textile and construction sectors. The study reinforces the feasibility of reusing Amazonian wood residues within the circular bioeconomy approach, while highlighting the need for further studies to confirm their safety and efficacy.

ARCHITECTURE AND ACTIVE RELEASE IN SINGLE‑STEP MULTIPLE EMULSIONS

Authors

Mariana Rogero1, Glasiela Passos1, Michelle Liberato1, Flávia Causs1

Affiliations

1Croda do Brasil Ltda, Campinas, Brasil

Abstract

The growing demand of the cosmetic industry drives the development of systems capable of integrating organized structural architectures, sensorial performance, and functional efficacy. Water/oil/water (W/O/W) multiple emulsions stand out for enabling the formation of internal domains and the modulation of active release. However, conventional methods based on double emulsification present limitations regarding reproducibility, robustness, and scalability. The adoption of a single‑step emulsification process enables the formation of W/O/W emulsions in a simplified manner while preserving the desired structural complexity.

OBJECTIVES: This study aimed to evaluate the impact of a W/O/W colloidal architecture obtained through a single‑step process on the release and permeation of a hydrophilic active. Three formulations containing caffeine were compared, analyzed by permeation in Franz Cells and by Confocal Raman Microscopy to elucidate the spatial distribution of the active ingredient.

MATERIALS AND METHODS: Three emulsions with the same caffeine concentration were prepared: an oil-in-water emulsion with a phosphate-based emulsifier, a W/O/W emulsion obtained through the classical two‑step process, and a W/O/W emulsion formed in a single step using Cetearyl/Cetearyl Polypropanediol‑8 Phosphate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol. The formulations were evaluated in Franz Cells for 24 hours. Confocal Raman Microscopy studies investigated the location of the active ingredient when incorporated before emulsification or after emulsion formation, allowing comparison of its physical state and internal distribution.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: Permeation results demonstrated that, after 24 hours, the formulation structured with Cetearyl/Cetearyl Polypropanediol‑8 Phosphate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol showed a 29% increase in caffeine transfer compared with the conventional O/W system and an 11% increase compared with the W/O/W emulsion obtained by the two‑step process. These findings indicate that the colloidal architecture formed through the single‑step method favors modulated release and enhances active availability over time. Confocal Raman Microscopy studies revealed that when caffeine was incorporated prior to emulsification, its characteristic bands were detected both in the external phase and in the internal droplets of the multiple emulsion, confirming its encapsulation within internal domains. In contrast, when the active ingredient was added only after emulsion formation, caffeine remained exclusively in the external phase, predominantly in crystalline form, with no evidence of migration or internalization. The convergence between permeation data and the structural evidence obtained by Raman spectroscopy indicates a direct correlation between the spatial localization of the active ingredient and its release kinetics. In this context, the W/O/W architecture obtained through the single‑step process, by simplifying the construction and stabilization of internal domains, promotes internalization of the active and is therefore associated with increased availability over time.

CONCLUSION: The adoption of a single‑step emulsification process for the formation of W/O/W multiple emulsions proved capable of simplifying the construction and stabilization of internal domains while simultaneously favoring the internalization of hydrophilic actives. This architecture resulted in modulated release and superior permeation when compared with conventional O/W systems and with two‑step W/O/W emulsions, indicating that process rationalization acts as a determining variable in performance. The consistency between structural evidence (Confocal Raman Microscopy) and functional results (Franz Cell permeation) supports that delivery efficiency arises primarily from the colloidal organization achieved through the single‑step method, providing a solid technical–scientific basis for developing advanced cosmetic formulations.

BIOPHYSICAL AND BIOMECHANICAL CHARACTERIZATION OF FACIAL SKIN ACROSS DIFFERENT SKIN PHOTOTYPES: A COMPARATIVE STUDY
 

Authors

Santa Maria Del Rosário Orrillo Lindo¹, Silas Arandas Monteiro e Silva¹, Caroline Ferreira Costa dos Santos¹*

Affiliations

¹ Natura S.A., Cajamar, Brasil;

Abstract

The diversity of skin phototypes in the Brazilian population poses relevant challenges for the development of effective cosmetic formulations, as structural and functional differences in the skin may influence parameters such as hydration, barrier function, and mechanical properties. Evidence suggests that stratum corneum organization, water content, and skin permeability vary according to phototype, potentially impacting the response to moisturizing and skin-evening active ingredients [1–3]. However, integrated studies focusing on facial skin—particularly those incorporating biomechanical parameters—remain limited [4]. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate and compare biophysical and biomechanical parameters of facial skin, including hydration, barrier function, pH, and elasticity, in women with different skin phototypes (II to VI). MATERIALS AND METHODS: This was a cross-sectional clinical study conducted with healthy female volunteers aged 18 to 80 years. Skin parameters were assessed under controlled conditions using a Corneometer® (hydration), Tewameter® (transepidermal water loss, TEWL), pH-meter®, and Cutometer® (elasticity, parameter R7). Data distribution was assessed by visual inspection of scatter plots. Comparisons among phototypes were performed using one-way ANOVA, followed by Tukey–Kramer post hoc test for multiple comparisons (α = 0.05). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: Cutaneous hydration, assessed by corneometry, differed significantly among phototypes (ANOVA, p < 0.01), with a tendency toward higher values in higher phototypes. Mean hydration was higher in phototypes V and VI compared to phototype II (74 versus 64 AU), suggesting greater density or organization of stratum corneum layers in more pigmented skin [5–6]. Conversely, barrier function assessed by TEWL also differed significantly among groups (ANOVA, p < 0.001). Phototype V exhibited significantly higher TEWL values than phototypes II, III, and IV (15.8 versus 10–12 g/m²·h; Tukey–Kramer, p < 0.05), indicating increased skin permeability despite higher superficial water content. These findings suggest that increased hydration is not necessarily associated with a more efficient barrier function, particularly in facial skin [2,5,7–9]. Cutometry data revealed significant differences in the R7 parameter (biological elasticity) among phototypes (ANOVA, p < 0.01). Phototype V showed significantly higher R7 values than phototypes III, IV, and VI (Tukey–Kramer, p < 0.05), whereas phototype VI did not exhibit the highest elasticity values. This pattern suggests that the mechanical response of facial skin does not follow a linear gradient with increasing phototype, possibly reflecting differences in collagen organization and extracellular matrix structure [3,4,7,10–12]. Skin pH remained within the physiological range across all groups, with a tendency toward slightly more acidic values in higher phototypes, in agreement with previously reported literature [13]. Taken together, these results indicate that although higher phototypes exhibit greater superficial hydration, these groups may present increased transepidermal water loss and distinct biomechanical behavior, highlighting structural and functional particularities of facial skin that are not fully explained by water content alone, but rather by the overall architecture of the stratum corneum [6]. CONCLUSIONS:Skin phototypes differ significantly in terms of hydration, barrier function, and mechanical properties of facial skin. While higher phototypes exhibited greater superficial hydration, higher TEWL values and non-linear variations in skin elasticity were observed. These findings reinforce the importance of personalized cosmetic formulation approaches that consider not only phototype, but also the interaction between biophysical and biomechanical parameters of facial skin.

BRAZILIAN GREEN SURFACTANT: EXTRACTION, CHARACTERIZATION, DRYING, AND APPLICATION OF SAPINDUS SAPONARIA

Authors

Rodolfo Scarpino Barboza Franco123*; Letícia Kakuda13; Marcelo Martinez1; Wanderley Pereira de Oliveira1

Affiliations

¹ LAPROFAR – Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto, Universidade de São Paulo (FCFRP–USP), Ribeirão Preto, SP, Brasil.

2 SAMAUMA BR – Ribeirão Preto, SP, Brasil

3 OBYKAA – Ribeirão Preto, SP, Brasil

Abstract

Replacing synthetic and semisynthetic surfactants with biodegradable alternatives is a key strategy to reduce the environmental footprint of personal care and cosmetic products. Sapindus saponaria (“sabão-de-soldado”), a native species widely distributed in Brazil, is rich in triterpenoid saponins with surface-active properties (foam formation/stability and reduction of surface tension). To translate this Brazilian biodiversity potential into an industrial ingredient, it is necessary to standardize extraction and convert the extract into a stable, scalable powder. AIM: To develop a green and scalable route to obtain a saponin-rich S. saponaria extract and convert it into a powder with technological performance (spray-drying yield, scalability, and foam stability) and storage stability. MATERIALS AND METHODS: A aqueous extraction of leaves and pericarp was performed and optimized using a Box–Behnken design (temperature 25–75 °C; time 5–35 min; plant-to-solvent ratio 0.01–0.03 g/mL), using foam column height (after 10 min) as an indirect response. The process was scaled up using 10 kg of pericarp (batches of 28 g/700 mL; collection of the foaming fraction). To enable industrial use and improve stability/handling, the extract was spray-dried (Tin = 100 °C; 4 g/min; 2 kgf/cm²; 17 L/min) with maltodextrin (0, 5, and 10%; MOR-REX® 1920). The powders were characterized for water activity (aw), total solids, drying yield, Carr index, Hausner ratio, and foam stability (powder column test, 20 min). The stability of the dried extract was also monitored for 90 days at 25 °C and under Zone IVb conditions (30 °C/75% RH). Microbiological stability of the dried extract was assessed at t0 and throughout storage (up to 90 days) by aerobic mesophilic total count (CFU/g), according to Brazilian Pharmacopeia, Chapter 5.5.3.1.2, and by testing specified microorganisms as presence/absence (P/A), according to Chapter 5.5.3.1.3, including Clostridium sp., bile-tolerant Gram-negative bacteria, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Candida albicans. Analyses included pre-enrichment/enrichment steps, followed by plating on selective/differential media and confirmation based on applicable microbiological criteria (colony morphology/microscopy and confirmatory tests when relevant), adopting compendial acceptance criteria (including limits for aerobic mesophilic counts and absence of specified microorganisms). RESULTS: In vitro assays in BALB/c 3T3 cells (NRU; OECD TG 432) showed no evidence of cytotoxic or phototoxic potential for the extract in the 1–15% range, supporting its use in topical applications. For leaves, the plant-to-solvent ratio was the determining factor (p < 0.05), with optimal conditions at 0.03 g/mL, ~62.5 °C, and 20 min, enabling optimization with lower energy demand. In the pericarp scale-up, ~2.0 kg of dried extract was obtained (overall yield ~20%). In spray drying, maltodextrin increased efficiency and processability: yield increased from 23.8% to 84.6%, with a 64% reduction in aw (0.16–0.44) and total solids of 96.5–97.2%. The 5% formulation showed better flowability and lower compaction (Carr 25.7–29.6; Hausner 1.35–1.42; ANOVA, p < 0.05), while foam stability was modulated by the carrier matrix (48.0 ± 1.0 mm without carrier; 25.0 ± 1.5 mm with 5%; 32.0 ± 1.5 mm with 10%). During storage, the dried extract maintained aw < 0.50 and remained within microbiological parameters expected for a raw material. CONCLUSIONS: The combination of optimized aqueous extraction and spray drying enables converting S. saponaria into a green powdered surfactant with high yield, low aw, and tunable flow/foam properties. This work positions Brazilian biodiversity as a competitive source of sustainable ingredients and supports technology transfer to personal care and cosmetic formulations. (SisGen AEF6826 / IP BR 10 2026 000779 0).

EVALUATION OF A COMPOSITE SERUM CONTAINING CAMELLIA SINENSIS AND MATRICARIA CHAMOMILLA GLYCOLIC EXTRACTS

Authors

Maria Izabella Tobias da Silva¹; Karolayne Martim Raymundo2; Raquel Rossi Penna ¹; Claudia da Silva Bitencourt3

Affiliations

¹Farmacêutica, pelo Centro Universitário das Faculdades Associadas de Ensino (UNIFAE). São João da Boa Vista-SP, Brasil.

2 acadêmica da curso de farmácia, pelo Centro Universitário das Faculdades Associadas de Ensino (UNIFAE). São João da Boa Vista-SP, Brasil.

3 Farmacêutica, doutora em Fármacos em medicamentos pela Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto/ FCFRP-USP. São João da Boa vista-SP, Brasil

Abstract

Skin aging is a multifactorial biological process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, such as ultraviolet radiation, pollution, and oxidative stress. In this context, there is a growing demand for dermocosmetic products that demonstrate efficacy, safety, and good sensory acceptability, especially those formulated with plant-derived active ingredients exhibiting antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Objectives: To evaluate the acceptability, dermatological safety, and dermocosmetic potential of a serum formulated with glycolic extracts of green tea (Camellia sinensis) and chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla). Materials and methods: A double-blind clinical study was conducted with ten healthy female volunteers, who applied the product once daily for four weeks. Skin elasticity was instrumentally assessed using a Cutometer® MPA 580. Sensory perception, subjective acceptability, and the Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI-br) questionnaire were evaluated at the end of the experimental period. Results and discussion: The serum showed good spreadability, rapid absorption, and absence of oily residue, resulting in high sensory acceptance. Instrumental analysis did not demonstrate statistically significant differences between treated and control areas, indicating that the formulation did not cause adverse changes in skin elasticity and showed good cutaneous tolerability. DLQI-br scores remained close to zero, indicating no negative impact on participants’ quality of life. The absence of significant biomechanical changes may be related to the reduced sample size and limited follow-up period, without compromising formulation safety.

Conclusions: The serum containing glycolic extracts of green tea and chamomile proved to be safe, well accepted, and dermatologically compatible, demonstrating potential for cosmetic application.

AÇAÍNANOIL: A NEW NANOTECHNOLOGY-BASED ANTI-AGING, ANTIOXIDANT, AND ANTIMICROBIAL INGREDIENT.

Authors

Yan Abner Neves, Thalita Sérvia Magalhães, Pollyana Cristina Macedo, Hugo Alexandre rocha, Ádley Antonini Lima

Affiliations

Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte, Natal, Brasil

Abstract

Currently, the pharmaceutical and cosmetic products market shows significant growth, and based on current trends, it is possible to observe the strength of natural and sustainable products. In this context, AçaíNanOil has great potential in the current industry, as it consists of the encapsulation of açaí oil with the aim of obtaining a more stable ingredient with varied functionalities. Thus, it presents antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-aging activity. In addition, it can be used in various formulations, which further broadens the use of our product, ensuring versatility. OBJECTIVES: AçaíNanOil demonstrates great potential for scalability and commercial viability due to its basis in practical, reproducible, and industry-compatible technological processes. In this regard, Artificial Intelligence (AI) plays a fundamental role in the development of new products derived from our ingredient, which presents broad potential across several areas, fitting perfectly into the cosmetics market. In the context of the cosmetics market, Brazil is the fourth largest consumer worldwide, exhibiting several trends with which AçaíNanOil aligns. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Açaí oil is obtained from the fruit pulp using the cold-pressing method, without the addition of solvents or preservatives. β-cyclodextrin (βCD) and hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HPβCD) were purchased from Sigma-Aldrich (St. Louis, MO, USA). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION:In this context, AçaíNanOil is a high-performance natural solution, presenting technical feasibility through the combined application of inclusion complexes of açaí oil (Euterpe oleracea Mart) with cyclodextrins (β-Cyclodextrin and Hydroxypropyl-β-Cyclodextrin). This provides greater chemical stability to the ingredient due to the protection of its chemical constituents. Thus, our product also exhibits high antioxidant activity, showing an increase of up to 7.5 times compared to non-encapsulated oil, equivalent to 498 mg of ascorbic acid per gram, which confirms the use of complexation to promote protection against oxidative damage, cellular aging, and the reduction of free radicals. Highly susceptible to rapid oxidation, low stability, volatilization, and reduced bioavailability, the encapsulation protects potent bioactive compounds (anthocyanins, polyphenols, omega-6 and omega-9 fatty acids, vitamins A, C, and E) within advanced nanocapsules or microcapsules. This ensures exceptional stability (prolonged shelf life, even under light, heat, and oxygen exposure), superior bioavailability and absorption (deep and effective penetration into skin layers or the organism, with controlled and gradual release), and enhanced antioxidant performance. The differential of AçaíNanOil lies in the availability of açaí oil in its nanoencapsulated form, in an isolated and targeted manner, which allows overcoming the limitations associated with conventional oil. Furthermore, industries avoid vegetable oils because they oxidize quickly and vary from batch to batch. Our inclusion complex powder ensures stability for months. CONCLUSIONS:The main beneficiaries are the end consumers of innovative pharmaceutical and cosmetic products developed from AçaíNanOil, who will benefit from more efficient and natural formulations.

CLINICAL EVALUATION OF A SPECIALIZED COSMETIC FORMULATION FOR HIGH PHOTOTYPES: DUAL-ACTION SYNERGY IN HYDRATION AND SEBUM CONTROL.

Authors

Anne Lore Moreira¹, Pedro Soldati¹, Nayara Lopes de Oliveira Chalita², Camila Valpaços Gomes², Larissa de Lima Sa², Priscila Moncayo² *

Affiliations

Natura Cosméticos, Cajamar, Brasil

Abstract

The skin is a vital organ that performs crucial functions in protecting against environmental damage, regulating temperature, and maintaining water balance. The stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis, is primarily responsible for the permeability barrier and water retention. Specifically in skin of color (higher phototypes), a lower concentration of ceramides is physiologically observed in the stratum corneum, which can compromise cellular cohesion and barrier function, making it more susceptible to transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Concurrently, there is often a more pronounced sebaceous production, resulting in a unique dermatological challenge: the coexistence of sebum hypersecretion with the need for deep hydration. Therefore, it is necessary to develop cosmetic products that consider these specific characteristics through a technical selection of ingredients based on maximizing efficacy and acceptability. OBJECTIVES: The objective of this study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of a cosmetic product specifically developed for the needs of Black skin, focusing on increasing hydration and controlling oiliness. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Instrumental clinical tests were conducted on 30 female volunteers, with phototypes IV to VI and a facial skin profile characterized as combination or oily. The methodology included assessments via corneometry (Corneometer® CM 825) to measure the water content of the stratum corneum and sebumetry (Sebumeter® SM 815) to quantify sebaceous secretion in the frontal (forehead) region. Evaluations were conducted over short-term kinetics (30 min to 48h for hydration; 30 min to 6h for oiliness) and long-term kinetics (after 27 days) of continuous topical application. Data were subjected to statistical analysis (paired t-test considering a 95% confidence interval). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The studies demonstrated a significant increase in skin hydration of up to 35.9% just 30 minutes after application, maintaining improvement levels of 15.2% after 24 hours and preserving the moisturizing effect for up to 48 hours. Simultaneously, sebumetry tests revealed an immediate and sharp reduction in oiliness of 50.5% (30 minutes), maintaining control at 48.0% after 2 hours and 37.3% after 6 hours following a single application. After 27 days, the product reduced oiliness by 27.3% compared to the initial baseline condition. For both parameters, 100% of participants showed statistically significant improvement (P < 0.05). CONCLUSIONS: The performance validated the formulation rationale by mitigating excessive shine without inducing the dryness common in conventional oil-control products. Thus, it can be inferred that the product demonstrated high performance in managing the particularities of Black skin, ensuring immediate and prolonged hydration for 48 hours, as well as effective, progressive, and long-lasting control of sebum production, strengthening the homeostasis and integrity of the stratum corneum.