Tecnologia Polimérica Aplicada a Cosméticos Anti-idade
publicado em 12/04/2020
Fiammetta Nigro, Cristal dos Santos Cerqueira Pinto, Claudia Regina Elias Mansur
Instituto de Macromoléculas Professora Eloisa Mano – UFRJ, Rio de Janeiro RJ, Brasil
Elisabete Pereira dos Santos
Faculdade de Farmácia da UFRJ, Rio de Janeiro RJ, Brasil
O envelhecimento cutâneo é resultado de um processo biológico complexo. Diferentes grupos de ativos podem ser utilizados como componentes em formulações cosméticas anti-idade. Neste artigo são descritas novas metodologias de encapsulação de ativos, entre elas, o uso de polímeros, principalmente, como constituintes de sistemas de liberação controlada e direcionada de ativos.
Skin aging is the result of a complex biological process. Different groups of active ingredients can be used as components in cosmetic anti-aging formulations. In this paper, new methodologies of actives encapsulation are described, among them, the use of polymers, mainly as constituents of controlled and directed actives release systems.
El envejecimiento cutáneo es el resultado de un proceso biológico complejo. Diferentes grupos de activos pueden ser utilizados como componentes en formulaciones cosméticas anti-edad. En este artículo se describen nuevas metodologías de encapsulación de activos, entre ellas, el uso de polímeros, principalmente, como constituyentes de sistemas de liberación controlada y direccionada de activos
A Pele e sua Relação com o Envelhecimento
Mecanismos de Envelhecimento Cutâneo
Tecnologia Polimérica e sua aplicação na Terapia Antienvelhecimento
A utilização de polímeros em formulações farmacêuticas e cosméticas surgiu da necessidade de inovação ao serem criados novos produtos contendo ativos encapsulados capazes de apresentar maior desempenho e segurança, quando comparados às formulações tradicionais em que os ativos são veiculados em sua forma livre.57
A indústria cosmética necessita de constantes inovações, em particular, devido à curta vida útil dos produtos de beleza e à necessidade de vencer a alta competitividade presente nesse segmento de mercado.28 Alguns ativos veiculados em formulações cosméticas tradicionais podem apresentar baixa solubilidade e instabilidade, podendo ainda sofrer degradação química, como hidrólise e/ou oxidação. No entanto, esses fenômenos indesejados podem ser evitados ou retardados por meio da encapsulação da molécula ativa em materiais poliméricos, com capacidade de carrear e promover sua liberação, ao mesmo tempo que a protege da degradação.3,57
Além disso, é possível aplicar estratégias de direcionamento do ativo encapsulado até o seu alvo específico, proporcionando maior seletividade e menor toxicidade. Em alguns casos, é desejável que os carreadores poliméricos auxiliem na permeação
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